What to choose: Hyper 10SC or SCRT 10?
 

Hi guys!
I'm thinking about getting a 4x4 SC truck.
I want something different than traxxas this time...
So that basicly leaves me with the 10SC and the SCRT10.
What I like about the:
-10SC: the "handlebar", the availability here in Germany (big plus)
-SCRT10: the beadlocks
What I dislike about both: the battery trays in both don't seem to accomodate 2S hardcase LiPos.
Other than that, they both seem quite similar.
I've been reading a bit here in the forums and got the impression that there are quite a lot of modifications necessary for the 10SC to work and run reliable. (True?)
But since the biggest part of my knowledge seems to be limited to traxxas, I had no idea what most of the mods are about:oops:
Long story short: I want the truck to run as stock as possible. So what's the best choice on that? And are there battery trays for either one of them for 2S hardcases?

As for the power I would use 2S LiPos with a traxxas VXL system. (maybe a mamba max pro + sensored motor later)

Thank's everyone!

I don't think the Scrt10 has beadlocks, I think they are fakes.

But I have seen the Scrt10's up against the slash 4x4 and they put them through their paces.

Another consideration is this, kicks both of the other two trucks butts. If you have the donor car that is.

Well, the slash 4x4 was out of the race from the start.
As for the beadlocks: http://www.jamminproducts.com/SCRT10.html
One picture note says "Screw on Bead Lock Rims with All Terrain Tires hook up the All Wheel Drive System" another note says "Bead Lock looking rims and aggressive all terrain tires."
I should just get the 10SC because jammin is so unclear on the facts:lol:

SCRT10 does have fake beadlocks. It does come with aluminum rings that you can screw onto the wheels but they dont do anything except add weight. Tires are glued on

I have the SCRT10 and really like it. My buddy has the hyper sc10 and its a great truck too. Cant really go wrong with either.

And either one will take hard case packs... Not sure why you think they wouldn't.

I had the same q's last week and was this close to grabbing a Slash 4wd

Ended up with the Hyper 10SC as it was available locally and my impatience kicked in.

"And either one will take hard case packs... Not sure why you think they wouldn't. "
Because I saw measurements someone posted for the 10SC, and the battery tray was quite a lot bigger than 2S hardcases are.

Two words: foam spacer.

SCRT10 it is, got one for about 200€ from ebay UK. About 80€ cheaper as it get's around here...
@Brian:
Yeah I know I can stuff sth in there, but a clean fit would be nicer ;)

Has anyone an idea if there are any pinions included in the kit?
And if so, which ones?
Guess the diffs are 43/13, but the CD? 46T?

And what speed should I gear for?
And what's the tire diameter on those SC trucks?
What pinions can I use on the vxl-motor (with 2S) that have mod1? Are there any or do I have to use an adapter for the shaft?
Apart from that, I start wondering if it were better to put my MMM/2650kV system to use in the SCRT10. I mean, it has the dimensions of a regular 1/8th truck. Driveline should be similarly too. But what should I use in terms of battery then? 4S?

So many questions...

Edit:
And what servo arms/horns are included? One for every type of servo? Non at all?
Have to say, the information policy of hongnor, ofna, jammin, jamara, whoever regarding their products is quite "poor"...

The Hyper 10 SC comes with a 12t pinion included Mod 1 to fit a 3mm shaft, for a VXL I'd use a 14-16t pinion range. To give you an example I am running a 3300kv Medusa with an 18t pinion geared for around 40mph on 2s Lipo and motor temps are yet to exceed 110f, with no heatsink or fan etc.

Highest Amp spike is 70-75A on a standing start.

I've had my Hyper 10SC for about a month now and thought I would share some observations.I tried the VXL 3500kv combo but it did not "feel" right.I switched to a Novak HV PRO 6-5t(3700kv)combo with a 14t pinion gear and use a 5000mah 40c 3s Lipo.It gives great performance,plenty of torque and LOW temps and the motor has a 5mm diameter shaft that handles the motor torque.
Robinson Racing make a 3mm to 5mm shaft adaptor so you have a bigger variety of pinion gears to choose from as 32 pitch pinions with a 3mm hole are pretty scarce if you want to use a 540 0r 550 size motor.
I have a Slash 4x4 as well but I have to say that the Hyper 10SC is by far the better handling truck and my choice for a racer.Just make sure you put in a decent steering servo-I use 14kg Hitech.
Regards-JETHRO

Thank's ausjethro,
as far as I have gathered there is a 13T pinion included in the kit, and a 3mm to 5mm shaft adaptor as well. And if I needed an adapter, I would most likely get one from Mike, as well as the pinions. Provided those stupid shipping costs in the shop-system go down. 30$ shipping for a hand full of pinions which fit into an envelope that needs ~1.5$? Really? But that's a different story...
As servo I will use a Thundertiger DS1015: 14.5kg/cm and 0.108sec/60°. Should be fine, have read form a lot of people who use it in their MTs.
What do you mean with "doesn't feel right"? To much power? Not enough power? Doesn't pull hard enough of from the line? I will try the VXL though. If it won't work out for me, I still have a Kontronik Twist55 lying arround. Would need to gear down then I guess :mdr:
If this all fails, I'm thinking maybe Plettenberg Extreme or Shadow, or maybe I'll get a Lehner, 1920 or alike. But I won't get a Novak because they are about 150$, with shipping and taxes they're probably more expensive then the Plettis and about the same as the Lehner.
I'll see...
Hope the kit arrives on Tuesday:yes:

When I said the VXL"didn't feel right",I guess that it is basically a 1/10th scale system in what is really a vehicle close to 1/8th scale.Call me conservative, but I like the option(and insurance) of a 5mm shaft running a metal pinion and spur gear ,especially in 32 pitch.Don't get me wrong,I run a vxl 3500kv combo in one of my AE SC10's and it is sweet,but I feel that the Novak HV PRO is better suited although they are both similar in performance.
At the end of the day,I am sure you will be happy with your Hyper 10SC-it has to be close to being the best short course truck on the market today!
Regards,
Jethro.

I ran the Hyper 10SC yesterday a good 20 minutes, highest amp spike was 80A felt the motor it felt pretty warm to me, but the temp on the DX3S said it peaked at 38 degrees C (under 100f) which just proves I am a bit of a wuss when it comes to temperatures. Something to also consider guys, what one guy may consider hot to the touch, may not be, a temp guage is the only sure way to tell. My DX3S Temp sensor said after 20 minutes the Motor came off at 36 degrees c (around 95f) and peaked at 38 degrees c (100f). That was on a 2s Lipo geared for 42mph. Got to agree tho the 5mm shaft does feel a lot more secure, never tried a 3.17mm shaft in this truck, don't think I'd want to actually.

...checked my DX3S temp sensor just to be sure (make sure it's accurate), it is, which also confirmed I'm a bit of a wuss lol!

I don't think so, because I'm getting a SCRT10:lol:

As for the motor temps: I have no worries there. I bought a temp gun back when I finished my g-maxx. Compared to what my motors and ESCs cost, those 25-30 bucks were a really small price to pay...

:yipi:
Guess who got a new toy today:lol:
Put my spare castle 1512 1Y and mamba monster in it, fits rather well, sort off...
Needed some washers to raise the motor mount so the motor fits. Problem is, the bigger the pinions are, the further down the motor goes and ultimately collides with the chassis plate. Guess I need something special there sooner or later. Does one of Mike's mounts fit?

What I really like about the kit:
-Plastik spur gear on the CD
-4/6 Spider differentials (how do you count that anyways?)
-Perfectly balanced left/right chassis with the MMM set
-High quality of the whole kit
-Pinion bore reducer included
-Servo is lying down, everybody says it's great, so I guess it is :lol:

What I do not like:
-Reciever box isn't that great (got to push all cables and the receiver into one place and then pull the box over it)
-Tires seem to be made out of the same plastic traxxas mades it's RC cars off :rofl:
-Servo mounts haven't been thought through (you can adjust for the width of the servo at the top plate, but not on the chassis plate?)
-Battery tray seems to be made for 2S hardcases, but is too long, odd somehow :neutral:


All in all: Only little things wrong with it, very great kit for under 200€! Love it!
Was a little "shocked" when the body just swallowed my g-maxx. I mean, I knew they are huge, but that huge?



edit:
Ok, just calculated how "fast" this would go with the stock 13T pinion: 22.63 mph (36.35 km/h)
And I would need to get 30T or more for acceptable speed, not going to happen...
I should have calculated that before putting the set in there, now what?
Going for that little 5500kV motor I got lying arround in parts?
Don't really have the money for a "big" high kV motor at the moment :neutral:

Got another question for you guys:
For what speed should a SC truck be geared?
Somewhere I read 40mph is that about right or too slow?

Mine is geared for around 33-34mph

You don't really need to go beyond that.

JoFreak, it really depends on the type of track you run on. Is it long and wide open or short and tight. The track I run on is on the small size and pretty technical so I have my SCRT10 geared to do about 30mph. 40mph is pretty fast on a dirt track, that would be more for a longer track.

Ok, then I'll start with a 16t pinion. Should be a good starting point.

My SCRT10 left me another nice surprise today...

Rebuilt the CD on Sunday to change the oil to 3k.
Today I took the truck from it's stand and it left me a nice puddle of fresh 3k diff oil.
What the hell happened?
I did put all the seals in.
I tightened all the screws properly.
This isn't the first diff I built, but the first that's leaking.
I have no idea what is going on.
Help!

Hey there, get the plastic cup after everything is emptied and some fine grit sand paper.

Proceed on a very flat surface to rub the plastic cup on the sandpaper until everything is smooth.

This should level off any imperfections from the factory and should give you a way better seal :).

Thank's for the info! Will do so.

But this really sucks!
I have here 3 HB diffs, 1 kyosho diff, 2 old traxxas diffs, 2 old tamiya diffs, and the all are dry on the outside
I thought I would get the high quality HongNor/Jammin stuff and now have to sand the diff to get it sealed...

Hey, it happens, I do this with every diff I have :)

Got the skateboard glidetape today, I'm putting it on at this very moment, but...
Holy crap! I will never ever be able to get it off of the chassis again!

And I rebuilt all the diffs including grinding the plastic caps down, they seem to fit perfectly now, thank's again MikeW.

No problem, glad I could help.

Enjoy the SCRT, next year I think ill be joining the class, after losi,ae, kyosho put out a 4x4 SC truck.

Great news!
As predicted, I screwed up the paintjob, or maybe Tamiya did. Not sure on that.
But if colour x attacks colour y of the same manufacturer and makes it liquid again my guess would be it's the fault of the manufacturer.

Other than that: I finally managed to get a mod1 5mm 16t pinion (HPI) here in Germany. Cost me 15€ (nearly 20$). Could have gotten 2 pinions from Mike for that money, sad thing he doesn't answer my mails anymore...
Anyways: now that I have my pinion, I could have run the truck the next weekend (finally, after 5 weeks!), but instead I will have to try to rescue the paintjob:diablo:

I'm a bit pissed right now, anyone has an idea why?