BL 380C-6L Maxx-Pede Pics, Need Alum Diff!
 

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Custom built low dropout 6v BEC for the servo/RX in the clear shrink. The homemade KAN 350mah (charges to 500mah) pack powers the 5v to the Warrior BL ESC (so no cogging), cooled by ball-bearing PC fan running from main batt, not that it needs cooling yet. That power switch is double throw, it cuts the ESC plus the servo/RX circuits. Zip-tie holding batt... will fix that.

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Speaking of the batt, I built these two 7cell packs (charge to 3800mah), 12ga Deans wet noodle wire, Novak bars, these cells have higher avg voltage than IB3800's & better power (IB more runtime). They barely hit 45C while running; these cells will hurt a Pede.

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Four 1.125" holes drilled for batt cooling, & the new Swami wheelie bar. I dremeled stock chassis, 7cell sXs fits great.

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Really fun while it lasted, before the trans blew. About 3mins. Rolling wheelies on command, a real beast. Definately in Maxx class. Wheelie bar is mandatory...

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How to keep it running?? It's so much fun. The nitro 4-tec steel rear axles work great & are holding up. The metal planetary (spider) gears inside the diff gear stripped bigtime, they are made with soft metal. Robinson Racing no longer makes the hardened ones. And Cold Fusion Racing no longer makes the aluminum diff gear housing (that I know of, it shows on here as Out of Stock), so stock plastic is all there is. 10 year old model, so this is end of the road I guess??

Accelation was awesome, as was the wheelie action. But the spider gears stripped while braking (I pulse the brake, Hitec SRX lacks ABS) from about medium speed (30mph), the wheels locked on pavement & I heard a crack. I have a Futaba 2PL AM with ABS... maybe I should use it.

Anyone running a spool? Locking the diff action (spider gears) with glue/ca/epoxy. Maybe JB weld would be strong enough if it doesn't eat the plastic gear. But I think that would put all the stress on the diff gear teeth. I won't run smaller wheels, it feels just as a T-Maxx, minus the noise.

Aside from staying off pavement/TX Expo/looser slipper/higher pinion/spool locked diff ideas, does anyone use another idea? It's a little fast for the front yard, so I'm forced to use some pavement and slow the thing down.

AT LAST!!! I've found someone who uses Elite 3600 cells!! Been looking for someone to give an opinion before I shell out a load of money to get a set. Do they perform as wells as CBP says? And are they much bigger than GP3300, because looking at the specs they're quite a bit longer? It's already a bit of a tight fit with the GP's.

Oh, and nice truck rusty!

Rusty with a pede? hmmmmm lol.

I run the 380C-6L in a pede, I packed the diff with heavy automotive grease, after heavy and hard running have yet to do any damage to the planetary gears or tranny, I am running the alum and steel diff. While not breaking the tranny I have broken just about evrything else chassis, wheels,arms, this is a very fun little motor.

Thanks, & yes the cells are just a tad larger than sub-c but all 7 fit easily in the Pede with very minor dremeling (2mins worth). I used a cheap $8 jig (really only 5 fit at once or it would distort) & when I had em soldered straight, CA'ed them.

They DO perform as good as CBP says. Probably why they're outta stock. Glad I got mine now. No heat (it's really unbelievable) and more power than you could ever want. 3800mah shows on the ICE charger too. Makes my GP3300 seem like a AAA pack.

That sounds like a great idea to lessen the diff action for the spider gears, & the motor does rock, but you have the CFR steel diff...

If I can't get one now, I'm basically up the creek right?

lol... My "handle" is rather old... The Rustler was my first R/C and I actually raced it quite well... but that crowd is way younger than me in many ways. So when I got my T-maxx and enjoyed it alot, I converted the Rustler to Pede for "quiet" bashing around the house instead of going to park.

How does the maxx tires do on your pede? I am getting ready to put one together and wanted to know on the tires.

His maxx tires are currently ruining diffs Leroy.. :p

those large tires put quite some stress on it.

Had a breakthru today...

Took the trans apart... basically my fault. I had let the carbide slipper balls go. So it was like a step function, either go or no go. During braking on pavement, a planetary gear fractured as the Maxx tires skid across the road, causing a bind, causing half the diff teeth to rip off.

Luckily I had a spare plastic diff gear. I brake cleaned the old sun/planet gears/shafts (even the broken one) and put them in the new diff case. Then filled it with 5min Plastic Weld. In about 3mins I had a perfect locker.

Re-installed slipper with new carbide balls and set correctly, now the BK7020 brakes very smoothly on the pavement instead of ripping the Maxx rubber across it (my fault). Slipper sounds a bit narly, & heats a tad, but I was ripping up the street today thru a full 3800 pack. Sweet!

Anyone who wants to make a MaxxPede I recommend leaving the stock drivetrain. The plastic needs to give. Forget CVD & for now the plastic output yokes holding fine. Just the alum idler & 4mm 4-tec metal rear axle. The locked diff was my choice, turning radius is unaffected, but slipper setting is crucial to keep the diff gear alive. The plastic teeth can take enough horsepower to get out of anything plus the locked diff gives more traction to the 2WD truck.

The stock slipper is the exact same as on the Maxx... anyone can point me to a better one? Thanks!

i've been wondering if the strobe setup would work? i have never seen one on a pede or rusty but if its the same as a maxx i dont see why it wouldnt work...

Slippers are the same right down to the stupid pegs.

But doesn't the Strobe bolt to a 51T Ofna gear? Using a 84T spur now... few more teeth. Even if I did work out the gear ratio, is Ofna's pitch 48 or something else? Even then it's outta stock; I guess it might come back right? (don't want to sound neg on here but the CFR Rustler/Pede alum diff gear is listed here outta stock, but it's really gone for good for well over a year now)

strobe slippers are mod1 pitch

You know, you could get some 1/8" steel differential balls instead of the pegs. They last a lot longer, are more consistant, and are cheaper.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LX2760&P=7
These work with Kimbrough and HPI spur gears that are a direct fit to the Rustler/'Pede.

The Strobe slipper wouldn't be ideal IMO. A 51t mod1 gear won't even fit onto the Rustler/'Pede transmission. The largest I have used was a 46/49t mod1 gear (don't remember the exact tooth count). Besides that, it would be difficult to get the right gear ratio.

I figured they'd use heavy duty, expensive pinions. But doesn't Robinson Racing or someone make a better slipper than stock for the Maxx, since it should fit the other Traxxas vehicles.

MetalMan - check 4 posts higher - been using the the Carbide balls for years now & never use Traxxas spurs on the Rusty/Pede. That was the point of my post above, they had worn flat spots causing the slipper not to work, thus eating my metal planetary/plastic diff gears when I applied the brakes. So I put new in carbide today, locked the broken diff, & all is well.

edit: Robinson Racing Double Disc slipper seems like an option. The kit comes with a 72T spur, but they make a 78T for it, close enough if it'll fit & if it's actually better than carbide balls, anyone know if it's better?

RR does make a better-than-stock slipper for the Maxxes, but the spur gears are too large to fit on the Rustler/'Pede transmission.

I wasn't aware that you had moved away from the slipper pegs. Those flat spots on the slipper balls sure do get to be a pain!

Good to know, but that is a shame tho... ah well, I guess I'll stock up on the carbides & pressure plates.

With my current locked diff, I depend entirely on the slipper, which heats it up some. Small maintenance price for the fun.

I may try another diff setup with heavy grease. Isn't there some "recipe" to boil/bake plastic parts like the plastic diff gear to make it less brittle/prone to stripping out. I thought there was, I just forgot it...

A number of people do boil plastic gears and parts to make them more flexible, which would make them less likely to strip/break.

About the largest 32P gear you could fit on there would be a 61t. And then you need some crazy small pinions. I used to use 11/61 on my RC10 T2 with M2K's and a 540 6s.

That's what I figured, but I plan I buying extra diff gears anyway, should I get another couple to see just how long they can boil before they melt/deform? I forget the typical time, I know I varies by size/type of plastic.

You could try that. I've heard that about 10mins is a good amount of time to boil parts.

:032: Maxx tires are 1.85" taller than M2K's. You're talking spur setup? But after squeeforever inquired & MetalMan answered that the Strobe kit doesn't fit the trans, which is Mod1, nor does the RR Dbl slipper which is the stock 48P.

The 48P HPI/Kim spur gears hold up fine (could've used the CFR metal diff tho, but I'll boil the stock plastics), just the slipper is getting used overtime (carbide balls heat the plates) to protect the trans, likely because of the current locked diff I'm using.

But since Robinson Racing doesn't make the hardened planetary/sun gears anymore, I may keep the locked diff. More straight traction offroad (well, powerslides on turns are fun) & it just tips a little bit turning fast onroad (stresses the suspension). The stock diff probably wouldn't have broke internally if I had the slipper balls changed out beforehand.

The BK ESC .3sec ramp-up throttle delay works well. It'll slowly stand on its rears/wheelie tires from many low speeds on pavement. On grass it wheelies at the slightest touch at most speeds. I have the rear shocks set soft to try to stop the wheelie action.

actually, the rrp is 32p.

Yes, rrp is 32 pitch, nice truck, i love all the bling.(meaning in tires and wheels:p)

Thanks, & my mistake, I got 48P on the brain working on the Pede so long.

Real happy with the truck, have tons of fun driving instead of brushed with the M2K's.

Time to load up the aircraft sim for my BL helis/planes... too much truck bashing is making me rusty, ha. I know this site is Truck specific, but the heli/plane sites do well & Mike seems to be able to get the Feigao stuff everyone uses on the aircraft, just a thought.