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Ultimate UE-G4...
I figured i would start a thread for my truck. I will post pics slowly but surely. Let me begin by saying that this truck is a G4, and am working with a machinest. I figured out a way to mount the RC-Monster CD to this chaissis! No need for UE (Unlimited Engineering) mono chassis extension. However with my setup you may want to go out and by the UE Front dog bone and the Mono rear dog bone. heheeheheh truck looks sick!! Will post soon!! :party:
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Can't wait to see it!
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i have pics but my machinest wants me to wait before i post pics. It looks trick!!!!
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sounds good would like to see those pics and get some ideas before i build my ue maxx
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So is this just your own build, OR Something you plan to sell? I just am a bit confused...
Either way post those pics, I love a bitchin looking Maxx...:yes: |
You tease, cant wait to see it- havent been many GorillaMaxxes lately, a dying breed perhaps....
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it's a piece that he will be selling. This is why i can't post pics quite yet. It looks sick and it's perfect!!!!!! Fit and finish is on par or above the quality of many supplyers. Again the metal will be 7075-t6, not that cheap garbage 6061 junk.
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Respirology! Great to see you on RCM! Looking forward to seeing this pan out! You'll be racing this right? I think it will out perform all your past nitro maxxes which is nothing to sneeze at.
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Any News?? Can you post pics yet? LOL
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Updates? I really wanna see this custom monster....
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So with the G4 i am running a 48T spur. This is awsome!!! pics coming very very soon like 48 hrs soon
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here is a teaser of the truck... i'm just waiting on shocks, but other than this the entire truck is 90 % NEW. The only thing not new are the UE Setbacks. They are mint but still not new. All the other UE parts are new and either in the package still or what you see on the truck. The center diff plate can accomidate any spurs between 50t-44t. The bottom plate will be made available to peeps. Trust me this is SICk!!!
Just one teaser pic for now. I'm going away on vacation so i can't show it off. Sorry guys, but i will once i return. |
You are going to love racing this truck! I'm excited for you! Do the batteries right!
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spin that diff, face the motor forward for better weight distribution.
Looks sick!!!!!!!! |
Niiice, strobe braces ftw :yes:
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Here is what i have in the truck:
UE 6 spyder diffs UE alum turnbuckles UE RcX UE 6mm CVD's UE Knuckle Heads UE Ti Pillow Balls UE Servo Saver Gen 4 Strobe front and rear braces RC Monster CD Dave Wing Mount 14.8v 3000mah 35C batteries ( one on each side so a total mah of 6000) Proline Bull Dog body Tony Screws Avid Ceramic Bearings I will have to see what else. I'm running Traxxas Plastic grey bulks because they are light. I do own a VBS but do not want to run it on this truck. I will have to see how this thing feels before i go ahead swapping out parts for racing purposes. I intend on running this with truggies. |
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I figure 30,000 wt oil in the cd is a good starting point.... |
30k in the middle?? I was going to try a more traditional 7k front, 10k middle, 3k rear. What makes you say 30k center? just curious. I've been racing for 5 years and am pretty decent at the clubman level.
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what pinion should i be running for this setup? i have a 2200kv monster mamba motor and esc. I am using a 48t spur, front and rear diffs are essentially the same as buggy diffs.
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http://i288.photobucket.com/albums/l..._/white005.jpg |
The G4 chassis is equally as long as a UE thunder/mono. The motor sits far enough forward that i do not believe that i need to flip the motor around. This chassis is designed for racing!!!!! Cant wait to get it on the track!!
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Just throwing it out there as a tuning option. It's behavior in the air is all i was concerned with. I can't wait for you to race it either!! Please report back, and vid is always ice:intello: -Harold
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Yes it is the same wheelbase length as a ue thunder-mono. I have a full blown ue thunder-momo-vbs and can tell u tjat the G4 is the same length. No need to buy a mono like everyone who owns a egular gmaxx chassis. Not only this but i can run up to a 50t spur. Much better options than being stuck with a 44 spur.
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Cool... the extra bit (mono) does help to stabilize the truck though... I notice this when I drove my FLM chassis with a mono against my friend's G4 Chassis...
I found that the G4 was a little tail happy being a shorter wheel base than the FLM/Mono combo... Just a person opinion based on observation :yes:.... Here's a 'side by side': http://lh5.ggpht.com/_4vPm5E8J5HA/Sx...0/DSC_0007.jpg Alien |
Yes thats true Resp. The FLM is the same length as the Thunder and Lightning it was designed that way on purpose. So this evidence seems to dispute your claim, but there are other reasons for not wanting a monoblock, although I wouldn't trade mine for a shorter chassis.
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This is odd because i put my g4 next to my thunder mono, and they appear to be the same length. I will take pics now that im back from vacation
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Pics>??
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How can i post pics on this site? I know i posted a pic on the first page, but it came out grainy and tiny. I want the pics to be posted with good clearity; any advise?
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It should work the same way it does @ UE
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Hope this helped Alien |
Guys we forgot he has setbacks! lol
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Hi Guys!! Now that i'm done with nursing school and just finished taking my boards i can strart posting pics of my truck. Man it has taking me forever to get this done. I can't wait to show it off!!!
So i was talking to my machine friend... He goes by the name "The Dude" and is willing to make this part if a good number of people show interest in it. Mind you the one i have is a prototype but it is almost finished. I am able to mount the lower deck on to my G4 chassis and just plug and play. I currently have a 52t spur on my truck and can run everything all the way down to a 44tooth kyosho spur. The Monster CD is setup such that i can increase or decrease the length of my CDM due to the various center diffs that are out there. This was engineered in to the plate and works very well; this is what allows me to switch from fast spurs to thin ones without having any issues. Also the plate is designed so that you can use a UE mono dog bone, and a 57mm UE front dog bone; this is important in knowing because RC Alloys does not make custom bones anymore. So if your working on a project or buying parts; it's always good to know that you can complete your project without having to worry about not having the finishing pieces. Good quality pics coming in AM |
Sounds interesting, look forward to the pics.
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I took a ton of pics. Im loading them up to snap fish now. This is my first time so it might not work or it might come out looking bad. Once loaded on snap fish how do i get them to pop up here?
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Never heard of snapfish, but it looks the same as photobucket pretty much. You should have the option to copy the link address, then just add {img} {/img} tags at the start and finish of the html to post the pictures here ( or you may have the option to copy the link addresses with the img tags on them already- either way is fine ). I would select an image size of 600x800 pixels for best results- should all be explained on the sites how-to guides/ help files.
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http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3%3B5336nu0mrjlets try again
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In this pic you can see that i have all new parts still in the bags unopened and ready to finished. Usual UE stuff...
http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3%3B6336nu0mrj |
Here you can see that the plate allows for the dog bones to sit perfectly with no rubbing of the upper chassis deck. They sit perfectly in the middle of the outdrives. I have a piece of fuel tubing in there so that they don't bounce around too much while racing. I am using UE 57 for the front and mono bone for the rear... this chassis does not need a mono because it is the same length as a Thunder-Mono!!
http://images2c.snapfish.com/2323232...3%3A8336nu0mrj Just another pic but a slightly different angle http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...2%3B7336nu0mrj The bottom of the chassis was machined so that i can easily remove the CDM without having to take apart the entire top plate. If you were to do this mod; all you have to do is remove the four screws and the entire CDM seperates from the Center Diff Plate (CDP). http://images2e.snapfish.com/2323232...3%3A9336nu0mrj |
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