savage flux drive gear problem
 

ok, so i'm stripping out drive gears and i don't know why.
the first time it looked like something was not lined up right, one side was stripped and broke off (the teeth were missing) the other side they were stripped but still there. they were very pointy almost wore away completely.

my 2nd one, i put on about a month ago, is gone all the way around the center. there is not much play in the transmission, i tried it when i changed it the first time. everythin seemed to be smooth. i also read that there is no need to put any kind of lube in the transmission, as it does not come with any stock. This is kind of rediculous though to have to keep changing this part.

is there any kind of upgrade available for this gear? i found an aluminum and the stock metal one, however i think it would be bad to upgrade to aluminum, wouldn't that be softer and more easily stripped?

if you have any ideas let me know, this was my first problem ever with the tranny, what can i do to make it my last problem with it?

http://i941.photobucket.com/albums/a...elc79/0144.jpg

a little lube never hurts.

The only thing I can imagine is that you have some binding somewhere in the drivetrain. This can sometimes be tricky to pin point, as sometimes bearings only fail under load, but feel smooth free wheeling.

Are you running big heavy aftermarket tires? They really stress drivetrains. Have you added a lot of weight by adding aluminum hopups?

Are you landing jumps while still on the throttle?

You said the 2nd gear lasted a month, did the first one last a lot longer? That would indicate a new problem.

Failing all that, is your slipper too tight? Maybe loosen it a little.

Aluminium would indeed be a bad upgrade choice, not sure what the stock ones are- probably just unhardend steel. Try and find some hardend steel versions from.. somewhere ( hpi forums may have some more specifc info or leads ).

http://cgi.ebay.com/HPI-102514-HD-Dr...item5192f1acdb

No more stripped drive gear. Works flawlessly.

I was having the same problem with my savage and the hd drive gear solved the problem. The stock gear is unhardened steel. The hd gear is hardened steel and will last longer than the rest of the truck.

So the hd drive gear + the high speed 39t idler should result in a "bullet proof" center gear box locked in 2nd, right?

The point about bearings is certainly a valid one... Ive had more bearings than anything else fail in my truck. Now Ive made it a habit to swap bearings at a regular basis... :yes:

Well your gears wont last for ever obviously.
Ill tell you now though that my 39t idler and my HD drive gear are doing well, but i am feeling that my Drive gear will need to be changed soon.

As my Drive gear and idler gear are holding up, my other 2 gears are now stripping every 5-10 runs and everything in the gear box is shimmed nicely... I guess its just the torque of the motors.

P.s. make sure you watch your temps with the 39t idler gear installed (and dont use it for bashing)

Unless its geared down on the pinon / spur :)

My Savage is a conversion so I have a 48/13 ratio to go with the "lock in 2nd" setup.

Now that we are on the topic of driveline damage (sorry about the hijack)... that slipper thingy!! Is it working for anyone out there?

I have reached the point where its just fixed 100% Every time Ive attempted to loosen it a little, Ive ended up with a seriously hot spur gear and worn pads! It must be possible to make a system with a relatively well specified "slip-force" and low wear?

Maybe we need a Savage slipper guide for dummies... or at least for Nixpus ;)

Nixpus, also using a pinion which is so small could cause ESC failure if you lipos are not decent enough to handle the regenerated current through heavy braking... Just take that into consideration...

I know what your saying about the slipper on the spur... I dont bother backing out the nut. I just tighten it as hard as i can otherwise i burn it up. I hate seeing smoke coming from under the truck. I always think its my ESC gone boom but its usually my slipper frm the nut backing out.

Breaking is set relatively low... can't remember the exact value :)

But I must admit I hadn't thought about the gearing ratio in that perspective.
18.76756 : 1 just seemed like a relatively easy load on the motor... and I really didnt want to run any faster than 55mph (which is a ridiculous speed on a set of terra pins).

im geared for around 53mph using a 1600kv motor. My gearing is 18/47/39t idler. and i have temps of around 100-120 across motor and esc, even if im doing many high speed passes.

What is your braking set at on the ESC? I am currently using mech brakes but i am starting to consider using motor brakes again

thanks for the link on that hd drive gear, certainly will be getting that instead of stock/aluminum ones.

i guess the problem could be i have a 5t conversion from tcscrawlers and i guess the weight is probably the problem. i also have cen genesis tires on there, i don't know the exact weight, they are 7.5 inches tall, but a little thinner than the 40series mashers i had on it. i guess i'll get the hd drive gear and see what breaks next.

Yea all that extra weight will take its toll on the gears inc the large tires... As long as you are geared accordingly to the weight of the truck and size of the wheels you should be fine...

geared 17/44 now, a 16 pinion would be hard to mesh, would have to go up to a 47t spur next, but temps on motor have been staying low, highest i've gotten temp on the motor is 140 and that was in a large soccer field of grass going full throttle for 10/15 minutes chasing some dogs. normal high temp for my general bashing is under 120.

nice... sounds good... I had probs even meshing 17/44 so i went 18/47 instead... its all gd...

usually the dogs are trying to chase the truck instead of chasing the dogs...

lol it was a little back and forth, the dogs would chase a while, then i'd stop and start doing the chassing was fun lol