My Custom Carbon Fiber Revo 3.3 Brushless Conversion!
 

Well, after a 6 months of modding, building, and buying, my conversion is finally done! She has:

Vantage Extended Carbon Fiber Chassis
MMM Black 2200kv combo
Hitec 7955TG servo
Tekno Swaybars
RC Monster Custom Motor Mount (The lower plate is an older version)(not shown in pics)
Tekno Battery Tray
DX3.0 Radio
Turnigy 5000mah 4s 40c lipos
RPM Rear True-Tracks
Traxxas Red Aluminum Turnbuckles/Pushrods all the way around
Revo Platinum lightened Bumpers (Drilled out)
Aluminum F,R,C Skidplates, with a small custom V-Armor Plate Mod
Custom Mudgaurds
Custom Aluminum ESC Mount
Tires: Badlands and Masher tires Mounted on RPM Revolver Stablemaxx - wheels, AKA Cityblocks, and Revo Platinum Response Pro Tires
Bodies: Custom Carbon Fiber Revo 3.3 body, Losi Muggy Body, and Proline
Crowd Pleazer 2.0 body

I showed pics of how I taped the tires with Gorrilla tape for both the Badlands and Mashers. I made the custom aluminum ESC mount with the Traxxas MMM mount, two sheets of aluminum sheeting, and a metal saw.

Hope you like it! I sure do....



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-muggy-bod.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...ion-revo-3.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-plzr-body.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...body-off-1.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...body-off-2.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...vo-chassis.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-esc-mount.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...rmor-plate.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...evo-tires-.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...aped-tires.jpg

A bit on the Motor mount. First I had an older version Tekno Blue Motor mount with a CC 2650kv motor and a long shank pinion. Due to flex issues, I sold the motor and got a Castle 2200kv, along with the CF Chassis and RC Monster new gen motor mount. The newer design is made for the Revo 3.3 aluminum chassis, which doesn't have the flex in the motor area that the CF chassis does (The rest of the CF chassis, is actually stiffer than aluminum). I described my problem to Mike, and He sold me an older version of the lower plate of the motor mount, which allows me to mount it on the Nitro motor mount. This raises the Motor about 3/8', but there isn't a notable difference in handling or CG. There are now zero flex problems compared to the newer version motor mount. So for a Carbon fiber conversion, make sure you ask mike for an older version mount.

Just camE back from the skatepark.... Success! No broken parts, stripped gears, or heating problems. I must have run it for over 30 minutes total run time, cause I spent a good chunk messing around in rocks and a playground at about half speed. Not very many highspeed passes, just low-mid speed runs. The skatepark was a lot of fun, a little too crowded, but i got some good jumps in. This thing is easy to control in the air, and flies well. I think I'm going to switch to some stiffer springs, I had my setup at 60 wt oil, p2 rockers, inner hole, Black rear springs, gold front. Any suggestions for stiffer spring setup? When I got home and threw the batt on the charger, it was at 14.7 volts, so I think that's is just fine. I never even hit the LVC, or use my second batt. I really like these turnigy batteries. I'll keep you udated as I test it more. This peoject has finally come together, and I'm really happy with it! :rules: Can't stop smiling! :party:

By the way, I have displaced all doubts about how strong this CF chassis is. It's really durable!

(Real quick Q, 14.7 volts is normal for 4s, right? I believe I have the LVC set at 3.1 volts per cell. It was just barely warm when I stopped)

yes, 14.7 is perfectly normal for a 4s lipo. you were almost at the point where the cells just dump and hit lvc. you had maybe 2 or 3 more minutes of runtime left on that pack.

most higher c rated lipos run best with the cutoff set to 3.4v/cell. the newer lipos (like yours) typically dump pretty quick and you will lose maybe 20 seconds of runtime, but it will make your battery last a lot longer.

I have a quick question for everyone. I'm planning on pick up front RPM A-Arms and axla carriers. Now, should I get all black or white front parts? The black would stick to the trucks wholetheme and the rear truetracks, but the white is cool. What do you think?

Black

black

Actually, I think I'll only get the a-arms. What are better axle carriers?

+1

If you get white, you can dye it whatever you want - so your options are limitless. Think, there's hot pink, lime green, mustard, purple, turquoise...............

Here are pics of the older RC-Monster Motor mount that I'm using, along with my new and improved gorrilla tape mudgaurds. I'm having a problem though. My slipper is being eaten up, and I have no idea why. This is the second time it's happened. (I've including pics of the problem)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...otor-mount.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...itro-mount.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...w-mudgaurd.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-slipper-1.jpg



http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachme...-slipper-2.jpg

Few things. I just weighed it today with the badlands tires, 10.2 lbs. I'm very happy with that, especially since it has all aluminum skidplates. I think with plastic skids and race tires, I could get it down to 9.5 lbs. It could be a very competitive racer! I alos ordered the heavy duty aluminum slipper pads to see if they help the problem. i'll keep everyone posted.

Woohooo! I love this setup! I took it to a very big skate park with a huge snake run and a real nice street course. Today, I must have gotten AT LEAST 45 minutes run time on each pack (Don't know how this is possible, other than again I mostly had it at about 1/3 throttle the whole time, occasionally a little more or less). I keep on think something is wrong, but I looked at the voltages of each pack and they were 14.107 Volts and 14.407 volts. I have my LVC set at 3.2 per cell, I think I'm going to go to 3.4 volts. But really, I mean this setup is amazing! The hottest the motor got was 120 degrees at the end of 2 packs, the ESC at 115 degrees, and the lipos at 109 degrees. No breakage the whole 90 minutes, except I once landed from 6 feet in the air on one tire, and both the pivot balls on each side popped out of the axle carrier, Easy fix, and I think it probably save either a broken wheel, a-arm, or part of the steering (Glad I have a titanium gear servo). Took 5 minutes to repair. I am really impressed with this truck, both in it's durability, and handling. Last night I unscrewed the rear shock shaft ends on the shokcs, and this, along with the silver and blue springs, really helped the truck not bottom out as much as it did before. I can't stop smiling

Was it the rear RPM carriers that the balls popped out of ? If so theres an easy fix for this.

No, front right stocm traxxas ones. Happened the other day too, but I think on the other side. What's the fix though?

When switching over from TRX carriers to RPM carriers there is a metal ring on the back of the TRX ones that gets often over looked. It must be removed and installed on the RPM carriers or the balls will pop out constantly (sounds bad?)
You still should check to see if your stockers have that ring, the balls do not pop out and back in again with the ring. If they pop out once they'll surely do it again because the plastic has ben stretched now.

Ring, can u post a pic of the ring?

Here

What, the black rings?

Yes the Rings ?

They are steel and slip over the backside where the threaded part of the pillow balls comes through the carrier. They keep the integrety of the plastic to prevent the balls from slipping through.

Little update put on Silver Springs up front, Blue in Rear and it is much better.

By the way, for anyone interested, I am selling or trading my truck. Here's the thread:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...ml#post7732776

If anyone is interested in a problem that was mentioned in this old thread, I have an easy fix for you...

PROBLEM: MuggyDude said his slipper was getting chewed up and he didn't know why...well, I do, because it happened to me!

Due the the "drift" that the motor-shaft has going in & out of the motor, even though it's only about 1mm or so, it's enough to cause the pinion to drift/walk forward and come in contact with the slipper...it can end badly, as mine did, but you got lucky!

FIX: All you have to do to fix this problem is to slide your pinion back on the motor-shaft about 1mm to 1.5mm, and this will completely eliminate the problem!

I also fixed the flex problem with my Vantage Carbon-Fiber Chassis completely by simply making a 2mm Carbon-Fiber brace just like the Aluminum brace that comes with the Aluminum Chassis and mounts under the chassis/engine/motor-mount...no more flex at all!