Can we get some feedback on the Nano Tech Lipos Please
 

there has been an increase of usage of the nano tech lipos 45/90c discharge.

I want to know what people think of them and if those ratings seem realistic?

I have asked many people to get back to me regarding them and no one has said anything...

I take that as a good sign, because you only usually hear about the bad things...

So i am hopeful, but i really want to know is if these discharge ratings are accurate and how ridiculously they perform! 90C Burst!!! THAT SHOULD BE MENTAL RIGHT?

Thanks

I have got the 25-50c 6000mah 4s nanotech. It performs great, I can't really tell the difference compared to my other 4s packs, including the new Blue Lipo 4s pack I got. I think the only real thing I notice is I can charge it at 10 amps all day everyday.

hmmm thanks for chiming in... at least you have nothing bad to say about them... 25/50c really isnt anything special so i doubt you would have noitced much difference...

im more interested in the 45/90c packs... and if someone has tested them against some 35c hyperions and can compare them, that would be even better..

I am thinking you are looking for a response from someone say that does speed runs, or pushed the living crap out of a pack, racing and bashing, I figure you'll never probably see the packs full potential.

yep exactly reno... there is so much hyp about these 45/90c ratings... and because of all the B*llS*** of hobbykings actual C ratings, i just want to see if they are worth the money...
Otherwise some normal 40c turnigy lipos may be just as good...

My current 35c hyperion lipos are extremely powerful.. .they outperform any 35c lipo i have tested from hobbyking so far, including some expensive lipos i bought here in the UK from a reputable seller which cost me just as much as my hyperions (problem is, hyperion lipos are crap in terms of their soldering!!!)

im hoping someone who has done an xxl length truck or some sort and can actually put the power down rather than wheeliing the whole time, can tell me their experience with these big boi lipos???

Honestly, I really like all my Turnigy packs as well. They've all performs brilliantly; however, they've never matched the performance of the Hyperion G3's.

In your case, if you are looking for the extreme, proven performers why not get the Hyperions 45c packs? You know they will be worth it.

yes they definitely will!!! (i actually believe they would be too much in terms of punch causing everything to fall apart haha... they are expensive though, and as i mentioned already... the quality of hyperions is absolute crap IMO, their soldering seems to have been carried out by a 3 year old!!! i did better soldering when i was 11!

This is why im interested in these nano techs... if they have the quality of the turnigys but the proven punch they state, then thats WIN WIN in my book!!! great price too!!! at nearly half the price of hyperions!!!

Plus i will be running 9s and 3x3s hyperion lipos is a lot of Monies to part with

Hyperion Quality Crap???

I have seen their packs, wished to own one. They are far from crap. I feel that they, if anything, set the standard of what RC lipos should look and perform.

However my budget allows for lipos within my budget, and when I race the cheap Blue Lipo holds up just fine in my 4x4 next to those running maxamps, zippies, and hyperions.

I would assume at that voltage your motor and ESC will be working with less amperage anyway. Though having the most available does make sense, you could just calculate what is needed and shoot for 100 to 200 amps more than needed for some wiggle room.

have you seen their soldering jobs??? here you go buddy pic below...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...9-15193855.jpg

my mate ran hyperions and his soldering on his is exactly the same...

After 30 runs or so the lipos have only been getting stronger and stronger and perform amazingly, but now they cease to work... im going to reflow the solder with a soldering gun hoping this will repair any possible cracks from impacts and allow the lipo to work again, but my mate has experienced the same problem too....

What i am saying is, i still love these lipos and they do perform unbelieveably, but for the money, i wish they were put together a little better.

Turnigy and Nanotechs, are amazing prices, offering decent quality for the money and performance. If somoething does go wrong with them, you cannot be too unhappy as you havent forked out an arm and a leg for them... catch my drift?

Remind me to post a pic of a Zippy when I get home. Or any pack, they look the same.

I really must not have seen enough open lipos because as far as I can tell there is nothing wrong with that picture other than possible needing a cleaning, and it is missing the - lead.

the negative lead is on the opposite side...

http://i878.photobucket.com/albums/a...-15193958.jpg#

ill remind you... i would like to see how the soldering jobs compare

Bear in mind the 45-90c rating of nano will mean little if you are not satisfied with the solder. Plus you run 9s yeh? Do you have a logger? If you do then you would know if you are using the limit of your current (now) batteries and or what the system draws. Then (as stated) get a battery that has lots of head room.

Okay so the neg side looks pretty bad, though the cells themselves, at least, look to have been soldered well. The balance tabs not so much, cold joints for sure. i would just get the iron out and heat them all together.

I searched my image hosting and I thought I had a pic of one. I have a zippy open at home I will surely take a picture of it when I get off.

How much currant travel through the balance tabs anyway? Shouldn't you really be worried about the leads, which both look to be well soldered.

i currently run 6s on my MMM, but just doing my homework for when the new MMMHV is available... So i have no data logger at the moment, but i will make sure to get one when the new ESC arrives...

I am definitely using the most out of my current lipos... thanks to my xxl chassis and the weight at the front of the tvps, i can put all the power down without much chance of wheelies... and the new centre diff also helps keep the front down too...

vid of my truck http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-LvDEGlTetw

Honestly, i have seen graphs from a data logger, and dont really understand what they are representing, but i guess i will pick that up as soon as i get one..

edit
reno - i believe there is a break somewhere... i do not have a multimeter so i cant determine where the break is, but someone mentioned that the neg side was not looking so great and i should just reflow the solder... So ill do that tonight and i am hoping that sorts my problems... FINGERS CROSSED..

Is the mmmhv going to have logging built in like the ice range? If so (I hope it does) the logger you get will be redundant soon unless you have other smaller rc's. Plus going from 6s to 9s should be lowering the amp draw on the system anyway.

well i believe it should have a data logger... i never really believed that i needed one just yet, untill i went up in voltage... I think the MMMHV will have data logger built in... maybe not the 8s version, but hopefully the 12s version should...

The last I read Patrick say the 12s is further away than the 8s. Maybe it would be worth while getting a logger. Except that just draws out more time before you get more batteries. I don't have either battery your considering but I do have A123 which is similar to lifepo4. The high charge rate is a nice feature.

i am quite happy the 12s isnt going to be available for a couple of months or so... i think the 8s is releasing very soon right?
i am a little low on cash for my rc side of things, so gives me time just to test my new current setup before putting 9s in it and potentially ripping the whole thing apart.

I will wait for the esc to release before buying the nano tech lipos... And i may actually see how they perform in 2 weeks time as a mate has a set and he may come to a meet. So i will compare them to my hyperions and get a vid of the comparison in performance.

i will also need to get a better charger so i can make use of the high charge rates... charging 6500mah at 5 amps takes nearly 1hr30mins! FOR ONE LIPO!

CC's 8s ICE aircraft esc's have data-logging already.



Edit:
I've logged current draw on my large scale build:
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...t=26979&page=7

My max currents were 90-125Amps (depending on 10s or 8s setup). My 30c 3600mah batteries should have easily been able to provide this, but I saw a big difference in performance (punch) between them and the 40c 5000mah I was also testing (All Turnigies).

So either, even at 10 samples/second, its not registering the highest current spikes, or the batteries are not up to spec. That convinced me to stick with the 40c batteries when recently buying new ones, since the numbers say the 30c 3600mah should be OK, but they weren't as good.

I can't say anything, however, about the 40c vs. 45c nano's though.

So your hyperions out perform anything you have even with dodgy solder.....
....and you would rather rip apart your car with higher voltage than higher c rating? I understand you why you are worried about heat issues with higher c and dodgy solder but it sounds like you have little faith in hyperion when the quick and easy fix would be...
I don't know what charger you use but if money is tight then you don't want to be getting batteries and charger to suit.

Brian - Thanks for that.. .i did follow that thread closely and was very impressed with your extended truck!

Panda
1. The hyperions are great, i just believe for the money spent, that the solder job from factory should have been of a higher quality...

2. i know i have contradicted myself a little with C ratings.... but i am also accounting for price of the lipos as well.
Nano tech 3s lipos are $75 5000mah... the hyperions i sourced were $110+...

3. hopefully by the time the ESC is available, i will have enough cash for the esc, lipos, and charger... Looking at the hyperion duo, but there are a few great chargers out there for less... i think i will also need a powersupply which can hack it, or i may just remove my 400watt power supply from my desktop.?

I've read a number of people talk about the highest amp spikes being missed. I would have thought of all the people here with loggers someone would have logged one of those spikes by chance. Yet I rarely hear of anyone getting over 200a. I think that is because the batteries have there limits and the loggers are reading the spikes. If I were to draw 300a or 400a spikes wouldn't that drop the voltage excessively and be noticable on the logger?

I think the problem with the spikes mentioned above is that they happen for such a small fraction of the second that it is not noticeable anywhere, or that the voltage drop associated with the spike is so minimal as well.

I understand where your coming from Jahay. Everyone wants bang for buck. Good luck deciding.

cheers buddy.... once the esc is available, i am probably going to need a little help understanding the results... so i will call on you soon enough... it may be quite interesting to see if the nano techs allow for a more detailed graph capturing the spikes??? we will see in due time...

I used to think that but the max draw on the system is for example landing a jump which lasts longer than 0.2 seconds. If a system is set up to rev out at 30k then the rotor spins 50 times each time the logger samples. That's at full revs! Spikes happen at lower revs (or the sudden drop in revs). So my pickled brain is having a hard time understanding why it doesn't have a lasting enough effect to be logged (even by accident). I don't really know how loggers work TBO. Do they sample for 0.2 seconds and average it out? Even at 10k revs the samples are taken every 33 revolutions. I would have thought somthing would be more noticable.

oh right, i am starting to get a better understanding of how it records its data, but im still completely flabbergasted by it all

Don't be flabbergastered Jahay. You have a good understanding of brushless and I've had lotsa beer :)

^ :lol:

As requested! I should also have the insides of a Blue Lipo too, since the leads are getting frayed at the entrance of the hardcase.

http://img37.imagefra.me/img/img37/7...pm_a832c6a.jpg
http://img37.imagefra.me/img/img37/7...qm_d9ed5c4.jpg

Thank you for uploading your pics.

From looking at your pics, the soldering work looks much better, cleaner than the hyperion lipos! You would actually be able to inspect for damage...

I hear what you're saying.

The reason I suggest that the highest spikes are not being recorded is because I see minimal difference in the highest currents logged in my 30c 3600mah 10s vs. 40c 5000mah tests (92-99Amps - And part of that difference could be explained by slightly different gearing). Anyway, looking at the logger would indicated similar performance between the two sets of packs.

But, in fact, what I observed is that the 40c packs had much more punch when driving - clearly noticable differences in acceleration. The truck was easy to control under hard acceleration on the 30c packs - whereas with the 40c packs it had significantly more power (and therefore somewhat harder to control). This difference did not register in the logger, however. It simply may not have the sensitivity to detect very short, high spikes.

Those are my observations, anyway.

Turnigy 4S :

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_oXx8nzDDQME/TJ...2/P1060972.JPG

Wait till you see the Blue Lipo, the leads weren't properly wet before heating to the board. Allowing the wires to fray and peal away from the joint on impacts. I hope the 5000mah that has been doing so well with me has better connections. Though the 5000mah has a front center exit and those setups usually have more wire inside the case, so less tug and pull compared to a side exit.

I don't doubt your obs at all. In fact they re-instate higher c ratings perform better. If your gearing were to remain the same for both setups it might look like this...
Battery(s) 1 = 10s 3600mah 30c
30c*3.6ah=108amps (continuous)
37v (10s) *108amps=3996w max continuous
Your setup as indicated- 37v * 92amps=3404w peak

Battery(s) 2 = 10s 5000mah 40c
40c*5ah=200amps max continuous
37v*200amps=7400w max continuous
Your setup- 37v*99amps=3663w peak

259w is a bit of difference but I'm sure the 40c battery holds it's voltage better when under load so the difference in real life will be greater and therefore a noticable difference when driving. Even larger than that difference is the capabilities of the different batteries. The logger doesn't show that much difference because the system is not drawing any more than it needs. At those amp rates the solder joints are less of a problem.

As for the spikes, I am still not convinced a system will shoot off enormous 'invisible' spikes that the logger can't detect (given perfect timing for the sample). The spark when the batteries are plugged in would be a good spike and fast too. I reckon I'll even test that theory, my logger will start recording when a set amp# has been exceeded. But when the system is in action all lines are full of electicity and produce resistance. I don't fully understand voltage ripple but it seems more plausable than huge amp spikes.