"Frostbyte II" still running warm
 

Allright, just got back in from around a 10-12 minute run with FB2 just outside the apt complex. I was driving it with a new RCM 18t pinion with standard 44t spur gear.

I ran in standard 2-3 inch recently mowed grass with a bunch of high speed runs, stops slide turns in and out of the grass and small sandpit whee the playground equipment was at. I stopped and checked temps several times and on my motor were showing around 120F at the hottest point according to my Duratrax flashpoint gun and the MMM fan was always running when brought the truck in.

I then moved onto flat, rocky dirt area that had random spots of fine dirt, small rocks laid out and random slippery grass/weed spots. I did a variety of high speed runs, slide turns, dead stop full throttle mashes, wheelies and just gave the truck a good hard run for around a minute or two and brought it back in a few times for temp measurements. The motor was now showing 154 F in the hottest area and I was showing around 120-130 F on the side of the ESC next to the motor with the fan always blowing.

I drove the truck back slowly on the concrete and disconnected my Turnigy 5200mah 30c 2s lipos and found the packs to be fairly warm. Not hot but definentely warm, warmest i've ever felt on them. It was sunny outside and around the 60's

So, even with the 20t to 18t pinion reduction, it looks like this XL conversion is still putting alot of load on the entire brushless system. I'm wondering if I need to step up to 6S power so it can move the heavier mass from the tires on a larger footprint from the XL conversion easier Or is it something else? My punch was at 0% with 0% brake drag, 30% brakes and 25% reverse throttle with LVC at 3.5v and timing set to normal. Keep in mind also that the motor endbell is still sealed with button bolts to keep dirt out of the motor, if that makes any difference

Input or suggestions?


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...sealmotor3.jpg


http://i100.photobucket.com/albums/m...e2/retire4.jpg

Suggestions

- Weigh the truck setup to run
- Do a run with the stock tires
- Do a run with the screws out of the motor

This should at least increase your understanding of whats going on in some way.

Those temps are fine - ditch the OCD and enjoy it!

Found this on rctech in regards to the Neu-Castle 2200kv motor which is similiar.

This is of course just someone posting but there are other posts around that seem to support it. What would be better is if there were easy to find info on manufacturers sites about max motor temp.

Those temps are fine. Stop worrying Freeze and play with your damn toy.

Stock tires are long since thrown away

Don't have a weight scale

I suppose I could try removing screws, but dangit, I wanted to keep the dirt outa the motor

Most of the motor mounts these days cover everyone of those holes, that isn't a reason for higher temps. Keep them plugged.

Gear down if anything.

Finer than fine. If it gets 180-190 then I would start to worry. If you feel that uneasy about it, get one of the awesome 1520 or 1518's on sale and go 5 or 6s

The screws are not going to make a damn bit of diff either way in terms of temps. Better to keep it clean

AMEN!! Go play with the truck! Its fine.

Get a CC blower if you are worried about motor temps....

there is a block off plate that is suposed to keep people from damageing the windings just behind the end bell that would stop airflow even if he didnt have the screws in it

i see temps like that with the 2200 in my buggy on 5cell, you are fine

Temps are great! Everything being warm is a good sign. If one componet was significantly hotter than the others you could worry. My guess is you saw a jump in temps when you hit the loose stuff over the grass due to wheelspin. Trust me it will heat stuff up fast(but looks cool doing it). For a truck that size don't really know why your running anything less than 6s, but most would say it's a matter of opinion, I say yes to efficiency. Other than that, run it till the wheels fall off.

I'll run it again tomorroo at bash pit with 10% punch control and see what that does.

Not sure if I wanna spend the money on 6s lipos when its getting so close to winter and the Flux will be shelved.

So it seems the temps are ok but i guess having lower temps would allow running in higher ambient temps and prolong the life of the electrics a bit.

If your not overly interested in trying to understand the causes then just buying a larger spur and or smaller pinions to try would be way to go. Gearing down further should cover most things assuming nothing is actually wrong.

Such a shame. A winter themed Savage that sits throughout the winter.

I know but I just can't afford *literally* the electronics to get smoked in the snow and lipos don't like cold weather either

Just got back from a great new little bash spot were they took down an old housing area, lots of bumpy and dusty terrain to really let rip with some hills to climb through. Better enjoy it while I can before they start rebuilding on it. FB2 temps were in safe range, about 130 F was max on engine with ESC fan running and shutting off pretty quickly. Dunno if punch control did much or not. I'll go again tomorro and take vids

Just follow some simple waterproofing techniques and your Savage should be fine. Lipos don't mind the cold the correct way to store them is in a fridge. While running they do appreciate being warm though. So if starting from room temp and through discharge they should be able to keep themselves warm enough to melt any snow that manages to get inside the battery trays.

Some good things come from running in snow, no heat problems, in fact I usually gear up during the winter because the temps allow it. Snow for the most part is fairly clean so clean up is a breeze. As long as you spray a little wd40 on some spots after running nothing should go bad.

As for the plastics getting weaker, think about the material in which you will are bashing in. Snow is a little more forgiving than concrete or hard pack.

I just simply don't wanna take the risk with the Flux. I"ll get a Slash 4x4 if I really wanna go bashing in the snow.

Slash 4x4- $350-400 new

or

MMM repair fee(if it gets wets)- $70



So which is cheaper? The lipos, servos, and receiver will be fine. Even if they do get wet, they can be dried out.


I wish I had snow to bash in! Definitely would take the E-maxx in it, as well as building a e-blizzard.

Wheelspin caused the heat. Go up to 50% punch control always lowered heat for me. Did not seem to do much else, as far as driving fun.

And e-blizzard would be cool. A big outrunner for each tread with a MM and a stick radio would make donuts extra fun!

As good as Castle is, I highly doubt they will do a warranty claim for "snow damage"

:diablo:Brushless motors are incredible pieces of engineering, its amazing how little we have to maintain these things compared to brushed motors. To help extend the life of my new Flux Tork motor as well as reduce maintenance intervals, I'm gonna seal up the front endbells openings with some set screws. I asked Patrick del Castillo, president and principle Engineer of Castle Creations at the RCM forums about doing this last year. He stated that there should be no issues with sealing the endbell of the 2200kv motor up. Never hurts to double check when your dealing with a $200+ motor and asking the president of the company who designed the motor is about as good as you can get! Major Kudo's to Castle Creations for their help and support at RCM in dealing with customers questions and issues on a face to face basis.:diablo:

I would ask them again

Plastidip is your friend freeze. I trust in your abitlity to build RC's to be able to get that thing capable of running in the snow.

Except one thing, you might lose it in the snow with it all white and blue... :)

I asked Patrick last year as well about the endbell sealing and he said their shouldn't be any concerns.

"MMM repair fee(if it gets wets)- $70"

Freez, That is the fee for NON warranty issues, if it smokes from connecting a 18s lipo or get wet doesn´t mather the fee is 70 dollars :).

Buy some paddles and have fun! All Winter:). No worries mate:).

I have come to the conclusion that trying to talk this clown into anything is a waste of time, he is to hard headed and full of himself to take suggestions from other people. I mean just look at this whole thread......hes complaining about motor and esc temps that are well within the safe range as explained to him before in another thread. I just dont think this is the hobby he should be in, because he is not happy with anything.

Who is the clown? He doesnt want to run it in the winter big friggin deal. Lay off the guy a bit. Bearings, electrics, and all that jazz dont like wet conditions. Freeze takes really good care of his stuff and doesnt want to see it damaged. Who cares if he doesnt run it, im sure you guys all do things someone else would disagree with as well. I dont run mine either in the winter....feel free to give me a lecture.

Agreed. Everyone is comfortable with different things, no need to be harsh.

I wasnt talking about him running it in the snow, i was just talking about everything in general. What im saying is he comes here for advice and then calls everyone idiots.

Another great stuff to waterproof

CorrosionX

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6jpSW50cobs

:angel::angel::angel:

also run underwater

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GuLmh...eature=related

lol, that logic is so flawed. that's $70 per repair, not $70 for infinite repairs. The slash 4x4 (or whatever waterproof truck you choose) is a one time payment.

True:yes: But.... I have driven brushless for 4 or five winters now.....It´s okay:party:

I've ordered some Turnigy nanotech 6s lipos, so we'll see how the truck does with those.

No, its not. Traxxas' warranty is not "lifetime"....I've spent a couple hundred on new VXL systems in the last year....

Did you break them in water? :oh: