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Questions about Castle repair kits
1. Does the repair kit for the 1512 2650kv work for the 1512 1800kv? I assumed they are the same except for the windings, but wanted to check.
2. Are there any repair kits coming for the 1518, 1520, and 1717? So many people have these motors now from the clearance sale, and since they don't have any warranty it would be great to see a repair kit available for them. |
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2. Yes, they are coming. Probably spring. We've just got sample kits for some of them recently, and are in the approval process. Thanx! Patrick |
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I was actually calling up Bernie tomorrow to ask him if that rotor for the 2650kv would work for my 1800kv, so thanks for the answer.
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nice :)
Im so glad i purchased some of these motors |
Hmm, may be another 1717 purchase in the future. Great motors Pdel, keep them coming!
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This is great news indeed, I know I'd love to have a 1518 repair kit in my parts bin. Sometimes it pays to ask!
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The longer motors are really interesting with their good power-handling/weight ratio. Unfortunately most of people just stick with the combos... But every little brushless skilled person realise the hold up he did, buying a 1520/1Y for only 65$ :lol: |
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Thanx! |
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Simple solution: just offer the combos on your site and let distributors carry them if they wish. Or at least offer a combo discount if a motor and ESC are purchased together, but have them boxed separately.
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The new rotors improve cogging torque and efficiency a little. |
Ok, thx for the input, and for that :
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Can you give me a good application?? Thanx! |
Yes I can try.
1515/1.5Y 1500kv : more inductance so more controllability than the higher Kv 1515/1Y (perfect for 1:8 racing buggies 5-6S). 1518/1.5Y 1200Kv: same for 1:8 racing truggies 1520/1.5Y ~1050Kv : same for 1:8 racing truggies 1524/1.5Y or 1Y : 6x6x6 Monster Trucks or heavy crawler :lol: 1717/1.5Y ~1050Kv : XXXXL Monster trucks on 6S ? |
^On that note;-
If you could manage an 1800kv and 1600kv motor in a 1515 can, then there would be ALOT of guys who would snap them up for their traxxas MTs; the 1518s were a hugely popular upgrade to the regular 1515 1Y motor in the brushless emaxx and erevo. The trouble with the erevo however is that the 1518 motor is just a bit too long to fit, so guys have to trim the rear shock tower for clearance; 1800kv in a 1515 can would be brilliant, assuming you could get the same kind of efficiency as the 1518 motor. I think thats the only niggle with the NeuCastle motors at present- if you want a lower kv rating you have to go to a longer motor- having different kv ratings in the same can size would be a real hit, Im certain of it. Heck, you might even persuade traxxas and hpi to get onboard and offer different versions of the motor with their BL trucks, take advantage of the guys who are sold on the lower kv & higher voltage way of thinking :yes: |
I also do not understand why no 1515/1.5Y from Castle.
This would be the perfect motor for MT's and Truggy's. I always thought it would come out soon due to under the Neu chart (on Castle's site) it is recommended for a Truggy. I'd say this would be a real good seller for those of us who don't want the 1550kv 1.5D from Tekin but want a Y wind in that kv to be able to advance timing. And neil already said the rest I would say, especially towards bashers who can't fit the 1518 in their applications. Yea, basically I would love seeing more 1.5Y winds from Castle but especially the 1515/1.5Y |
Personally I would like to see a 6000+kv 20 series motor, so I can use 1s lipo in my fine design baja 5b conversion... We all know that LV (low voltage) is the way to go for heavier vehicles, and the 1/0 gague wires just look so cool. A special 1 cell version of the XL esc would be cool to, nix the heatsinks for weight savings too, every ounce counts!!!
Also like to see the 17 and 20 series motors with 1/8 shafts, so my current selection of 64p aluminum racing pinions will fit. All kidding aside I would like to see a longer version of the 17 series motor, like a 1724, with around 1200kv. Would be great with the XL esc on 8s in the various stretched chassis 1/8 scale stuff, and would be an alternative to the big 20 series motors in a lightened or dedicated E chasssis 1/5 scales. And a lower kv version too, for use with 12s when the HV XL comes out, say 780kv. Figuring 35k rpm with nominal lipo voltages here. |
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1515-2.5D = 1522kV 1415-1.5Y = 1600kV 1415-2.5D = 1660kV 1512-1.5Y = 1800kV We do sell the 1512-1.5Y today -- it's the 1512-1800Kv motor. (a 1512-1.5Y) Thanx! Patrick |
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Got an application??? :lol: |
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Or a 1/2 scale rc car. |
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PS: You should also have a suitable ESC (and maybe that gearbox linc was talking about) sitting on your desk at the same time. :smile: |
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While I'm at it why not a:
1512/2Y 5-6s (Buggy) 1515/2Y 7-8s (Truggy and MT's) I'm sure a lot of folks would love to run HV/low kv setups and now with the XL ESC there should be motors for it in Y winds (without needing a Baja). I already posted the need for a 1515/1.5Y too for a truggy on 5-6s. And to be honest I think it would help sell more of the Mamba XL if we have motors that we can use it in. Like our Truggies and MT's. |
Pdelcast, will there also be new rotors for the 1515 motor?
reason i ask is becouse one of mye old 2200kv motor prob need new bearings in near future(better sooner than later i guess) so just wonder if i should wait so i also can get the new redesignd rotor thanks (sorry for my grammar\spelling) |
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Thanx! |
Here's a good question- I heard the traxxas 1515 motors have a rear endbell with a hole in it so you can see the shaft and bearing, is it possible to use the same design on the regular motors so that the rear bearing can be poked out if it needs to be replaced?
I havent had any issues myself ( touch wood ), but by all accounts if the rear bearing fails then its more or less impossible to remove- a sticker over the hole wouldnt be such a bad thing in my eyes if it makes maintenance easier. ABEC 3 bearings would be cool too vs the standard ABEC 1 affairs that are currently used still unless they've been changed recently.. Long live my/the MMM V1 :mdr: |
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The early 1515s were like that - - and we had a lot of complaints from people that sand was getting past the sticker and into the bearing. Or they would remove the sticker, and then dust/sand would get into the bearing. Or the sticker would fall off, and dust/sand would get into the bearing. So we just sealed it -- it's actually more expensive to manufacture the way it is now. The rear bearing fails very rarely, because it is under very little stress, and we haven't had any complaints about it since we covered the rear end. :) Oh- and to replace the rear bearing, you drill a small hole in the end-bell to drive out the bearing... |
Fair enough then :smile:
I do have one gripe though; the fins on my 1518s have rather sharp edges where they've been machined to expose the bare metal underneath the green anodizing, not normally a problem unless you are sliding the motor on an emaxx mount ( to set the mesh ) and grip it a bit too tight- needs a light rub with a emery cloth or something just to take the edge off, so to speak. |
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I'll talk to China about putting a .2mm round on the corners of the fins. I don't know how much more it will cost, but I'll ask. :yes: |
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Masochist^.
It doesnt bother me so much now I know how to handle the motor, Im just thinking about some moronic parent trying to sue castle because their precious spawn hurt their fingers whilst working on the truck. You could just insert a piece of paper into the box that says 'handle motor with caution, sharp corners are present- please grip motor with gloves or a piece of cloth to prevent damage to your finger tips'. That way they cant moan about it.. |
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http://www.polepositionraceway.com/go-karts/ |
Any idea on the ETA of the repair kits for the 1518, 1520 and the 1717? Would like to have spares in the tool box.
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Bumping this thread as I'm eager to get a repair kit for my 1518. I'm prone to wrecking my stuff and having spare parts beforehand is always a good idea! :)
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