Mamba XL on Savage with FLM Forward Tranny Chassis
 

Hi all, I've just completed to setup my Savage with the new arrived Castle Mamba XL ESC.

Due to XL size (see below), the standard FLM ESC mount cannot be used (well, it could be used, but the ESC results too tightly firmed between shock towers and the motor - a 1717 in my case).

http://www.andreazinno.it/rc/savage/xl_01.JPG

After some attempts, I decided to put the XL on the back shock tower, so I made a carbon fiber plate to hold the ESC

http://www.andreazinno.it/rc/savage/xl_10.JPG
http://www.andreazinno.it/rc/savage/xl_11.JPG

The ESC fits now well and still there is enough space to fit the Lipos within the chassis

http://www.andreazinno.it/rc/savage/xl_12.JPG

Further, due to ESC mounting position, I realized that the stock blower cover it is too weak and exposed to dust and small stones, so I made a little metal cover

http://www.andreazinno.it/rc/savage/xl_13.JPG


And the final results is as in the below photo

http://www.andreazinno.it/rc/savage/xl_14.JPG
http://www.andreazinno.it/rc/savage/xl_15.JPG

Bye, Andrea

Wow, very nice, very nice Savage. I couldn't drive it, looks too good.

Yes, very nice savy. Why not put it lower on the plate behind motor?
Esc looks mounted pretty high...
I am waiting for XL mamba will use it in Flux 5b.

FLM extended a-arms?

Looks great, very clean install!

I do think you should shorten the motor and esc wires. Longer wires just add resistance.

Hi Knez, the space within the chassis, near the motor, is for the batteries (6s Lipo pack), so the only available place is on the tower.

Yes, the ESC is a bit high, but I think this is not a real problem: the ESC is however in a safe position and, giving the total weight of the savvy, I don't see any impact on barycentre.

Bye, Andrea.

Yes, same thought, however I'm a bit worried about shorten the cable. Sometimes ago I've read on a different post that it is extremely difficult to shorten the Castle cable and then resolder with the connectors.

Bye, Andrea.

Some motors have wires that are just extensions of the coil wires, and yes, those are difficult to shorten and solder. However, Castle's motors use "noodle wire" so they don't have that problem. These noodle wires are connected to the coil wires inside the motor can.

Cant wait to see this thing run! Looks awesome!!!

Honestly though, i cannot see that tranny lasting long at all!!!

And

Secondly, i am a little worried about where you have mounted that ESC!!!
I wouldnt be worried if you were using some form of cage so the shock towers never took any direct impact as a result of a bad landing etc... ???

Please get some vids of your very nice flux!

The tranny has all gears in HD version, hoping this is enough for the 1717 torque...

Regarding ESC position, well, considering the central cage and the body, it should never be on a direct impact with the ground. The tower and the body posts are higher than the ESC, so they should absorb any impact (besides, the carbon plate on which the ESC is mounted is a little higher than ESC itself).

Bye, Andrea.

Good luck haha..

I ran my XXL savage with a 1520 on 6s and yes my HD gears held up nicely, but the cast gears at the bottom of the tranny failed every 5-8 runs... so i had to do a centre diff conversion. Let alone a 1717 and 8s getting to it haha... Please keep us posted!!!

I hope your ESC Survives, but also please keep us posted on its reliabliilty etc... i have seen a few too many blow up already and i am a little worried.

I'll go with 6s (also because of the available space to put the Lipo), so I hope the stress will be not too high....

What kind of center diff have You used ? I'm also thinking of such mod....

Bye, Andrea.

Due to these powerful, heavy trucks, i thought i would need a very strong centre diff...

I opted for the ofna spider diff from a hyper st which has 6 spider gears over the usual 4 in a diff. It is silky smooth and barely shows sign of wear. ALSO LOOKS THE BEST ;)

You must not have bought all the HD gears that are available? I have HD gears all the way down on mine.

Part #s or it didn't happen! :)

I was not aware that hpi made a hd output gear for the tranny. I have seen the hd input gear, and the flux idlers (high and low) are supposedly hd as well.

Pn would be nice.

I guess they are not the HD gears, but they are the light weight gears. But they are still hardended and are strong as shit. Mine show absolutely zero wear after almost a year of use.
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/86275/
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/86274/
http://www.hpiracing.com/products/en/102514/

Yes, I'm also running the lightweight gears and they are hardened.

No wear after about one year of use.

Bye, Andrea

the light weight gears didnt work for me. Yess they were slightly hardened but the contact surface area was terrible as they were so narrow. I was still going through those gears every 10-15 runs. But depending on how your savage is set up will wear the gears differently.
Considering mine was very nose heavy and struggled to wheelie, i could drive every where at full throttle not worrying about flipping, so my gears wore extra quickly...

Quick question, was the FLM tranny forward motor mount even close to working or did you have to make a completely new mount for the 1717?

Did you shim the gears so that there is no movement from side to side?

Hi, no, the stock FLM motor mount doesn't fit for 1717.

It is too low for 1717 diameter and it has holes for m3 screws, while the 1717 uses M4 one.

I've built a custom motor mount. Look here for some details.

Bye, andrea.

Of course bud!

I just liked driving around at full throttle. My front end always stayed down, so all the force was put on the gears.

Ever since i moved to a centre dif... i have had NO MORE PROBS :yipi:

Thanks, is that motor cradle piece removable from that mount? Could the mount be made to work with the 1717 at all?

I think the only part that can be reused is the bottom plate of the FLM mount.

The front part must be replaced by a taller one and with the M4 holes, the back support must be replaced by a new (custom) one to fit the 1717 diameter.

Bye.