Picked up a Stampede 4x4!!
 

Just scored a pede 4x4 roller off ebay. Well not quite a roller, no tires or body. But otherwise complete and brand new!!!

Paid right at $160 shipped, seemed like a good deal as I have wheels, body and all of the electrics.

Thinking an aveox 36/30/1.5y, 2000kv motor avout the same size as a 1512. 4s lipo and a modded MM that I have laying around with a ccbec. Gear for about 45-50mph. Should be a beast.

Always loved my pedes, just picked up a sidewinder sc setup for my original (1st true hobby grade rc, still have it!)

Nice! Be sure to post up V's and P's when you get it going!

Sounds like it will be a power house.

I figured an 1/8 buggy power system would move it fine, plus i have all of it just laying around.

I will certainly post pics, and have a new video camera to use for some vids.

cool! should be sweet!
still waiting for my ebay RC purchase to show up :grrrrrr:

Congrats. You will love it. And it's always nice when you have the parts to complete, just laying around.

Sounds like the same ebay chop-shop I got my roller from (brand new, no wheels, price, etc.). Not complaining at all.

The pede was my re-introduction to rc back in 2006. Shortly after, I started racing truggies, but I had to get a 4x4 pede when they were introduced. I love mine. Simple, light and fast, in comparison to competitive 1/8 e racing... haha.

They are fun little trucks, completely different natured than the slash 4x4, actually quite a handful to drive. They don't wheelie constantly like the 2wd one does. It seems much quicker than the slash for some reason. I kinda built up a "platinum" one with the traxxas big bores, sway bars, and aluminum carriers. The thing was eating rear stub axles like crazy. I went though 4 in 2 days. Swapped the plastic carriers back on and haven't broken one in the last 4 or 5 packs. I'm just running stock traxxas stuff in it, runs really well, but the motor does get pretty hot. I think I have a 13t on it and whatever the stock spur is, always on 3s.

I'm with you there. It was my first , also, and still have it.

I'm getting ready to build a 4x4. So I'll be watching this, curious to the troubles that arise with your axles and such.

People are having on and off issues with 3S and higher with the stock axles. I know they make metal cvd's for the 4x4's. I am still running mine on a Novak sensored 3000KV and 2s with a 15T pinion. Pretty happy with the speed. But on 4S, you may need to upgrade...

I have a feeling I will really like it. I always loved the 2wd pede.

I am interested to see how the stock sliders last. Look alot like the old emaxx sliders, pre 3.3 stuff.

I will have to look into the various cvd options out there. I have mip cvds on my 2wd pede and have had great use out of them. I have also had excellent success with the no name ebay cvds with rubber boots.

I plan to stick with the stock talons, so tire weight is not too bad. However the 36/30 aveox and 4s will not go easy on this truck... We will see.

Let us know! I have 2200kv CN that I'd like to use... and was thinking about one of these, but getting one of the Grave Digger shells for it.

The cartwheels are what was killing my stub axles. I think the aluminum carriers taking away all the give causes them to snap. There are some wright ups on the traxxas board about using the traxxas 2.5 t-maxx slider shafts, pretty simple just need 6mm inner diameter bearings for the carriers. Some were saying the output cups fit a little sloppy on the diff outdrives, but had eliminated their breaking problem.

The T-maxx sliders were what I was going to do to my Slash 4x4 before I sold it. Its not the aluminum carriers that cause the stub axles to bend. Its the shocks and the stub axles themselves. The stubs are weak for the weight of the truck, and the shocks bottom out transfering the force to the stub. Especially in a rollover situation where the chassis isn't hitting the ground preventing the suspension from bottoming out. I've read alot of cases of people bending stub axles with plastic carriers and it seems those going with 1/8 scale buggy shocks don't have issues with the stubs anymore.

Sounds cool, loove the look of that body.

I was wondering about the old t/emaxx sliders... I have a bunch. Where can you get 6x11 bearings? I will give avid and boca a try.

What we need is a hub setup that would use revo sliders...

Which 1/8 buggy shocks? Fronts and rears, seeing that the pede uses different length shocks?

Maybe go with lst shocks!!!:na:

Yeah, that's what I thought. Which in true over achiever fashion led to, :whistle:
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL133.../384560274.jpg

I still have these diffs setup using the Revo outputs, that part is simple, so if anyone has an idea on an easier hub setup , please let me know.

Sorry Linc, I don't remember the shock sizes. Im assuming 1/8 buggy fronts as thats similar in length to the longest shocks Traxxas makes. Btw, I only bent rear stub axles on my slash 4x4 and I haven't been keeping up with whether it's still an issue or not. If can find a roller cheap enough or one with CVD's already I'll give it another go because it was a fun truck.

Very interesting, could you give more detail to what you did?

Are those rpm lower arms? Are they the replacements for the 4x4 pede or another vehicle? Might be the angle, they just look different?

If you want tougher stub axles you could try the Tekno M6 shafts.
They have 6mm stub axles instead of the 5mm traxxas and most after market CVDs have, and I love them in my Slash 4x4. Haven't had a chance to really test them though. Stupid weather.
They are for the 4x4 Slash, but suspension looks identical to the 4x4 Pede, so they should fit. They do come with their own plastic axle carriers to accomodate the bigger bearings. In the front you could get different bearings for the stock axle carrier, or modify the axle carrier, there is enough material there. But in the rear, no way...

Hi guys. Welcome to Rc-Monster. Here at the monster if we want stronger traxxas drivetrain parts we use Fastlane Machine parts.:oops:

K thanx bai.

That looks like e-maxx true track arms by rpm with a custom top link to get the proper camber for the slash/pede with 3.3 axles:yipi: should hold great!!

Quad nailed it, here's the build thread.
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...ight=maxxslash
However, it would be way wide for a Pede IMO. I also broke a True track, who'd of thought. Now that is my donor for my 4x4 Pede, so I'd love for a different width answer to be found. .

Yeah, knew it looked familiar. I had a set or true tracks on my old tekno revo.

Pity tekno did not make their setup use the same bearing sizes as the revo driveshafts use. Then we could just buy revo sliders and mod them to length...

Wonder if we could find a hub from somewhere that uses a 6x12 bearing? Then we could use the old maxx sliders with the 6mm axle... I dunno, sounds like alot of work, but 50 bucks for each end on cvds seems a bit steep. I can remember buying a complete set of maxx cvds for less than 40 bucks, and that was all 6.

I haven't looked to deeply into it. But I know they are modding those old maxx axles to work. But it seems they are changing the ends, or just using the bigger bearing on the rear. Which the Tekno's use a 6mm bearing in their carrier, so using those on the rear, and the maxx axle, might be doable.

The tekno hubs use a large diameter inside bearing, like the revo setup. But the bearing is smaller than the revo, so it is not a direct swap.

I had a look at other hub options, and found the ofna hyper mini ste uses a rear hub that run a 6mm axle. It does use a 6x13 outer bearing and a 10x15 inner bearing. Not an issue as you can get 6x15 bearings to replace the inner, then run the old maxx stub axle that is 6mm all the way along.

P/n for refeerence:

Ofna 21025, mini ste rear hubs
ofna 11066 10x15 inner bearing
ofna 18075 6x13 outer bearing
ofna 21059 3x35 lower susp hinge pin

The 3mm hinge pin is my only issue, cannot find the diameter of the stampede hinge pins, where the hub connects with the lower arm. Pretty sure it is 3mm, and if so these hubs should fit. They may need to be trimmed, or shimmed as I am unsure of the width of these hubs compared to the pede hubs.

12mm is what the Revo shafts use on the inner, I wonder if a hub could be found to allow that in proper usage. Sure would be nice to just cut some length out them, and be good.
I found this over on TRX. http://traxxas.com/forums/showthread...hafts+%2435.00.

Got it today!

Out the box, with a few parts removed:

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4702.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4701.jpg

Had to trim on of the esc mounts(?) off to get the longer aveox 36/30/1.5y to fit. It is aboutthe same size as a 1512, for reference. Useing an 18t CC pinion, 5mm bore, with the stock 54t spur. Should do 45mph or so on 4s lipo.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4705.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4704.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4703.jpg

With lipo, 3200 30c fp lipo. Currently a 2s2p, but I will rewire it as a 4s. This truck is not that heavy so it should do ok.

May have to remove the radio bx and replace it with a homemade platform, as there is not much real estate.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4706.jpg

Gave it a test run with a 3600mah 4s 12c (!!) lipo, ran great. Only did 10mins as I did not have the lvc set but temps on everything stayed below 100f. Plenty of power, I have the punch control set at 50% and it keeps the backflips to a minimum. I really like this truck, handles well on concrete and blacktop. Did not jump it yet, but did not the front of the truck bottoms out under very hard braking. Might have to add some fuel tubing to the shock shafts to limit up travel a bit.

Will the slash swaybars fit this truck? I may have to add them and see if it makes the hadling any better. It does not really pitch sideways that much, but I am used to MT handling...

Great truck, only issue I can see is that the rear driveshafts will not be lasting too long with the 4s aveox power. I will likely mod a set of rear carriers I have to use the old maxx shafts with the 6mm axles. Until then I will just enjoy bashing it!

They're super fun. So easy. Did you keep the rx box, or did you fab something up?

A few things to help with the roll and weight... if you haven't yet, lower that freaking body. Chop down the body posts 1/8 under the "integrated washer", tap a small hole in the underside and screw back on...

Another thing, not sure if you are keeping the stock talons, but I got the 2.2 revolver wide offset wheels. It widens the truck quite a bit.

With the body low and and a wider stance (yet still keeping the suspension where it was), it handles like a champ. I only flipped mine once yesterday during a whole pack.

It's my understanding that the sway bars will work. Any idea what kind of speed you were seeing?

In your opinion, what would be the ideal motor setup for this? Do you really think it needs a 4s setup, to be efficient? I have a couple different routes for power that I'm thinking of, and it's always better to pick a brain such as your's, then pick a nose such as mine.

I removed the rx box, made a kydex plate and mounted the MM and ccbec on it. The rx is mounted next to the servo against the side of the chassis.

I have the stock talons and they are working nicely.

I am geared for 45, but the 12c lipo may be giving up some voltage. Looked like it was doing about 40mph.

Given my small amount of experience, something like the aveox I have seems ideal. So a 36mm diameter 4 pole 60mm long motor. This motor is 2000kv, and that is just about idea on 4s with a 18t pinion. I also think a higher kv motor on 3s would be good. The mmpro sc system with the 2400 kv motor may work on 3s, but I would run it on 4s and gear down for lower temps and more torque. A 3000mah 40c 4s lipo would be about ideal, or a 5000mah 40c 3s.

I would not go with a S can motor (50mm lomg) unless it was a high kv and geared very low on 3s. I think the longer motors are just better, run cooler and can have the torque dialed down in the esc setting which in turn makes the system less stressed and run even cooler.

I am temped to try the 1410 cc motor in this truck, but I think the 4wd would overload the sidewinder. With a MM or mmpro I think the motor would do ok on 3s, geared for around 40.

I really like the sidewinder sc system on 3s in my 2wd pede, just right on 3s and 14/58 gearing. So it will likely stay there. If I score a mmpro sc sytem it will go in the 4x4 pede. But the aveox/mm/ccbec is working just fine. Need to make up some higher discharge 4s lipos to really give it a run.

Have you managed to tear anything up yet?

Sway bars on your Stampy;
See how the chassis has 2 tiny grooves just behind the front shock tower and the 2 empty 3mm holes. The grove is for the bar and hardware holes for the hold down screws.

This should be behind the rear shcok tower as well on the diff case. Sway bar kits are readily availible via fleabay

http://toys.shop.ebay.com/Toys-Hobbi...slash&_kw=sway

Given the terrible weather I have only managed 2 half pack runs. Still pimpin the 12c lipos, not doing too bad. It is 45 or so here and the packs have not gone over 100f. Nothing broken, yet.

Thanks dawg. I will get some more wheel time and see if I really need them. I do notice the inside tire lifting under hard accel and brake, so maybe i should give them a try.

Ok, so I have about 3 full packs runs altogether. And one broken rear driveshaft. Actually, make that 2.5 runs....

So I decided that the old pre-3.3 maxx driveshafts were the best bet. Real easy mod, except making the hubs hold 6x12 bearings...

I really need to invest in a 12mm end mill bit. Any ideas where to get one super cheap, will only be cutting plastic with it in my drill press..

Anyways, I have one driveshaft done but cannot find anymore of the male splined sections. Have plenty of females, and some that look brand new. Anyone have any they don't want?

Here ya go fruity pants, hope you can use one of these ??

http://shop.ebay.com/i.html?_kw=12mm&_kw=mill

Thanks suga drawers!

Will have to score one of those. I have only done on side rear driveshaft. We will see how it does.

Well thanks, you convinced me. SHHH, don't tell Harold. I went ahead and bit the bullet, and bought the Tekno's all around. I just kept hearing good things, and the Maxx shafts are becoming a commodity. My Castle 3800 is on it's way, which I have different esc options if the Sidewinder can't cut it. But I'm gonna try a bec and cap on it first, maybe it will surprise me.

A little roller pic.

http://pic20.picturetrail.com:80/VOL.../395091600.jpg

Well, I blew up the maxx 2.5 slider tonight. About 4 mins into the 1st run. The yoke on the male slider just cracked and tore thru where the joint pin hole is.

I was doing some killer one wheel wheelies and landed on that wheels under full throttle. I think some heavy diff fluid in the rear diff will help, as that back tire was doing some serious rpm due to being off the ground. I do plan to use the 3.3 sliders next, probably use the center shafts from the nitro revo as they are shorter, a bit smaller, and should not require as much clearancing.

Will be buying a 12mm endmill bit to mod the other carrier. Even though my "half assed" method works it is only 7 bucks shipped.

I was looking at these Slayer shafts http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=STRK:MEWAX:IT The diff side is easy, just switch out to Revo outputs. But it seems like the axle end wouldn't work with any available axles, maybe you have a plan. When I get my Tekno's , which the rears use a bigger inside bearing 10x15 , like the front, I'm going to see if they can be milled out to use a 12 x 18 bearing, which would then allow the use of the complete driveshaft.

The FML shafts are super beefy but the price tag matches :whistle: