HELP - Emaxx Strobe Slipper Q's
 

Just about to get my 9xl setup up and running, but I had a few quick questions. :032: I see the strobe kit and ofna spur do not come with screws. What size screws need to be used to mate the spur to the slipper. Also - that hex drive into the transmission on the Emaxx, is it supposed to fit into the bearing of the slipper -- IE hex plate, metal disk, slipper (with pads), metal disk, finally hex plate? Also how tightly should it be set? Thanks all. Hoping to at least getting putting around this weekend.:027:

It does come with screws, and you should set it pretty tight IMO.

yea, it uses the standard type scew. not sure but i think its a 4-40. length is up to you since they come in so many lengths as well as many people use locknuts on the other side. thats why it doesnt come with any. also, yes, it goes, plate, disk, bearing, slipper w/pads, disk and the the hex plate. followed by a spring and then a locknut. you may have to file the edges for the bearing to fit. im not sre though. i had to when i got the rrp slipper and then i got the strobe so im not sure. as far as how tight, its up to you but i would go as tight as possible (within reason of course) and then back a 1/16 or so off of it.

EDIT: im not sure if sylevester has one or not but mine didnt as well as strobes website says it doesnt come with them...

I thought takes the 3mm metric squee. That is what is in mine. I tapered the spur so the screws are flat and not sticking out. Put some loctite on them to so it would loosen up the screws. I did have to supply my own.

To confirm Squee's statement: you do have to file a little (and I mean a little) off the hex shaft for the bearing to fit. Do just a very little at a time and test fit. It's better to file more off than the bearing to be too loose.

I too used lock-tite instead of nuts, but I didn't countersink the holes. Be careful to tighten the slipper well though; I had mine too loose (and I thought it was tight) and melted my first set of pads.

I took a file held it on the shaft and spun the tire over to rotate the shaft. that away it is even all the way around. It worked for me any how.

as you can see the strobe is pritty simple to install. its a great spure package, because it sells out pritty fast.

I just got my slipper, and it did not come with screws. Had another suggest 4-40, i will need to get four. for the shaft, i took my wifes nail file and took very minimal material off (let's not talk about the repercussion i got from her...15.00 nail file!). it fits like a glove! the problem i'm having is which side of the plate goes into the gear..the dished side in or out?

Thanks all! I'll be going after it Saturday. --now to get some sleep :025:

Final word;
 

No, 4-40 will ruin the thread!

it uses M3 screws!

it does NOT come with screws either!

Don't forget to remove the grease from the bearing.

oops...sorry:007:

no worries Squee.

It was just all these things said in this topic that put dfseidel on the wrong foot.

yep m3 screws worked on mine too.

M3's -- a little filing and awaaaaaay we went! Haven't broken any of the other stock things yet. 'Course that might be because I'm just running 12 cells on a 9xl. I know I know, but I ran out of deans to make the series connection AND get my charger ready :027: Thanks for the help!

Anytime!

Glad to hear you like it.

that 9XL can do nice on 12 cells.

I have ran the 9xl on 12cells as well. It will make the stock titans look bad still. Don't run hot either.

Does the strobe come with its own spring/nut or do you use the stock ones? Because I fitted mine with the stock spring, but it doesn't seem to be too tight. The previous owner came up with an overkill solution involving a small spring off a real car and a massive modified nut, but I'm hesitant to fit it due to the extra weight it will add.

You need to use the stock spring/nut.

Depending on the motor you use .

Leroy had some issues with his 2250 on 26 cells.. my 7XL on 18 cells managed with the stock spring/nut.

It does not come with a spring or nut... but my stock ones seem to hold up fine for 12cell 9xl... though any more and I worry about breaking other stock stuff :027:

Thanks for the replies, I'll give the stock one a go, I will be running a 9XL on 12-16 cells (maybe blip upto 20 just to see what its like..). I was just a bit concerned because with it fully tightened, I can hold the spur gear still, and as I turn the nut the slipper kicks in quite easily letting the wheels rotate.

That's odd, i think i can damage the thread if i do it like you discribe.

One other thing;
you did removed the grease from the bearing that came with the strobe?

Remove the grease!? Oops... how, exactly do you do that?

I removed the shields with a needle and dropped the bearing in thinner.. and used a tiny little bit of dry lube.

What does this actually do, Serum?

I have not removed the grease from the bearing. Could you please advise me on why it would help?

Something must be wrong on my slipper if it shouldn't be like that. The exact components on my top shaft are:

Hex backplate, slipper disc, slipper pad, washer, bearing, washer, slipper pad, slipper disc, hex frontplate, spring, washer, nut. With the strobe obviously riding on the bearing. Does this sound right?

Is your washers to thick and are they used for spacing the bearing in the center. You shouldn't be able to hold the wheel and turn the spur by hand. If the washers are hitting instead of the pads this may explain things.

As for removing the grease. When the slipper gets warm and spin around at about 10,000rpm the grease in it becomes thinner. It eases out and onto the pads. The pads and grease don't work well together. Inturn you will have a melt down of the other slipper pad cause it will have all the friction on it. Hope this helps.