Need help from every member with a truggy!!!
 

Hey guys, I need your help!!!

I need everyone with a truggy to measure the rear arms for me.

I need to know the distance between the inner and outer hingepin holes.

It would also be nice to know the inner and outer hingepin hole diameters too.

And if you are feeling frisky (stop eating cat food) these measurements would be nice too (see pic):

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...armdiagram.jpg

Working on a suitable replacement for a savage lower arm. But I need more info.

Thanks guys!

I've got a CRT.5 truggy...but I somehow don't think it'll help you.

Yeah, that arm might be a tad small...

Went to go measure a spare arm from my Caster F8T, but the inner hingepin is a solid tube the whole way through, and you need it to be open? Mugen MBX5T/6T is the same way. Well, here are the measurements for the F8T anyway.

Inner hingepin: 54mm at the outsides, 32mm at the insides (if you cut and removed the solid tube.)
Outer hingepin: 44mm at the outsides, 27mm at the insides.
Length: 143mm
Hingepin diameter: 4mm, inner and outer.

EDIT: I want to say someone had a thread looking for the exact same thing before for a Savage, might want to see if you can track it down.

EDIT AGAIN: Here it is, not as much info as I thought, but it's a start: http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=28110

Losi 8T 1.0
Inner:18mm
Outer:27mm
Length:129mm
Dia:4mm

RC8 T
Inner:Solid, outside to outside 56mm
Outer:32mm
Length:142mm
Dia:4mm

Good info guys, keep it coming.

I plan to mock up what I need tomorrow and get some exact measurements. Then we will see if we can zero in on a few candidates then I can buy them.

So 2 of our members have truggies......?

Or maybe just 2 of our members are helpful...

Thanks

maybe the rest of us have the same truggies as the 1st 2 helpful members you grumpy ole B

I like that these rc8t arms have some room on the outer end to drill holes to slightly shorten the overall length. I still need to measure stuff and get a better idea of what I am doing, did not make it to work today.

Maybe someone needs to shut their pie hole.

if the rc8t arms will work then use those because they are tough! good luck you grouch.

Don't you have a trailer to finish? No work ethic, these young people. When I was your age it was hard just to get out of bed after all the drinking I did. Try telling that to the youngsters today, waste of time.

My back hurts.

I remember seeing this shortly after you posted it but all I have is an RC8T and that was already posted

i have been looking around at truggy arms, and have not been able to fiind anything that suitable...

Im just curious how difficult it would be to get our own design of nylon arms made up which would be able to accept an LST hub etc...???

I seem to recall you have helped so many people with so little that you are now a qualified BS-artist. Glad to know we can do little for you too:lol: I too am an rc8t owner:na:

Luckily I have a jammin X1 I'm trying to unload. :wink:

Inner hingepin = 4mm diameter, 25.3mm inner, 58mm outer
Outer hingepin = 3mm diameter, 28.7mm inner, 45.2mm outer

145mm length

Thanks Pink, you are such a nice guy.

For reference here are the savvy arms specs.

Hinge pin dia - 4mm inner and outer

Pin to pin length - 120mm

Bulk end - 33.2 inner , 58.26 outer this is measured without the small item that overlaps the pin braces. I did this as I do not think I will find an arm with this feature, and want comparable measurements to the truggy arms

Hub end - 35.2 inner , 50.2 outer

Hey Pink, think you have the measurements swapped. The outer specs look like the inner specs to me, and vice versa.

So the x1 arm is about 1" longer than the savvy... Not wide enough at the bulk end, I would like to find something close or wider than 58mm there, so it will fit nicely between the stock hinge pin braces.

I need to set up a bulk and arm and get some ball park measurements that we can zero in on.

And here is a new pic, reference the measurements to the letters by the question marks. Should make things simpler...

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...mdiagram-2.jpg

Mugen MBX5T

Someone else with an MBX5T please post up arm measurements, my calipers aren't too accurate (cheapy digital ones from Harbor Freight).


Inner hinge pin diameter = 3.840mm (.1512")
Inner side, outer width (D) = 54mm (2.125")
Inner side, inner width (C) = N/A By Arm Design



Outer hinge pin diameter = 2.667mm (.105")
Outer side, outer width (B) = 44.1325mm (1.737")
Outer side, inner width (A) = 26.67mm (1.05")

http://c0456141.cdn.cloudfiles.racks...g/muge0134.jpg

Ok, so with the lst2 cvd the lower arm will need to be 126mm long. So only 6mm longer than a stock savvy arm.

The upper arm will also have to be 126mm long, as the lst c hub stands straight up parallel to the bulk. The knuckle is leaned in at the top on the c hub to give some negative camber. A longer turnbuckle could be used with the savvy X SS upper arms, and some spacers (like the rpm spacers to use their lst1 arms with the lst2) to fill in on either side of the hub end of the upper arm. I am pretty sure the turnbuckle is m5 thread, so if anyone knows of a longer model please chime in.

Also of note, the lst2 cvd bone end will require the use of the non-bulletproof diff output cups, as the lst2 cvd bone end is smaller than the shd dogbones. Some have had good success with the shiny diff output cups, so that is what I would start with.

ONLY 6mm!!!! damn! i guess even usinig the FLM XL arms would be too long and the CVD would just pop out of the diff axle on full lock!

are there any length differences between the LST and LST2 length ??? i doubt it, but just wondering...

Yea using regular HD diff axles shouldnt be a problem

Ok, so if I want to sue the lst2 c hub I have some fixed measurement requirements.

The hub end of the arm has to have a 50mm min outside width, and a max of around 35mm inside width. That is the stock spec for the savage arm. That leaves about 7.7mm of pivot thickness on the outer end of the arm, which is about the min I can see, any less and it would be weak.

On the bulk end of the arm, needs to be a min of 58mm to fit nicely between the stock savvy hinge pin braces. This can be less if necessary as the difference could be made up with shims of some sort.

I have a feeling the hub end arm requirements will be a problem, as all of the truggy arms listed so far are narrower at that end.

The length of 126 is not that big of a deal as the outer holes could be drilled on the truggy arms in the correct location. This may also help with the width issue at that end, judging by the pics the truggy arms get wider closer to the center. Some cutting and trimming/grinding will be required... A drop in solution is likely not to be found.

Yep, I was suprised to see that too. Slightly more would work too, I measure this with the arms level, and the cvd bone end about 2mm from fully bottoming out in the X ss shiny diff output cup. Arms level usually places the bone end the farthest into the diff cup, compared to fully extended or compressed. So we have some room, but more than 10mm longer than the savvy arm will likely cause the bone end to come out of the diff output cup.

No difference in length on the lst1 arms, and they are crap weak compared to the lst2 arms. For the record, most lst2 users (and muggy) go with rpm arms, as they have some flex.

Thanks for taking the time to do the measurements...

I am really interested to know what parts were used by people that have done these hub swaps...

Ill keep my eyes peeled for something that may work... but so far, no luck!

Ok, have new ideas, will start a thread in the savage section.

If everyone could keep posting specs that would be very helpful. Thanks!

DOH! edited.