Building A Drag / Street Ve8 Buggy Need Advice !
 

ok so as the title says it all

here is what i came up with

the only thing i own so for is the * HotBodie Ve8 kit buggy & Dx3R remote control *

this is what i think i need , correct me if im wrong ! * im a nooooooobie ... but that did some home work a little ! *

HHH chassis
Savox SC-1268mg
Ofna belted street tires
Kyosho IFH002GM
60mm 98GF Spring HB
Lipo --> http://www.hobbypartz.com/98p-40c-50...-hardcase.html
icharger
Pc Psu 1000w
23-26 pinion

wires
tire glue
6.5mm quick connectors
heat shrinks
tie wraps

optional parts that would look cool

Jconcept ve8 illuzion body
flat black paint
nice aluminium wheel cap bolts
cool lights ---> http://www.rc-lights.com/products/RCL5014.html
new wing --->http://prolineracing.com/wings/high-...ce-black-wing/
cool cam --->http://www.hobbypartz.com/wosm2mispy...ProductReviews
Aluminium wheels --->http://www.nitrorcx.com/51c00-816121.html


so building a drag buggy is a little tricky ...

but i will never see a r/c closed track aka ROAR rules will never be expected

i want to be able to go from 0-100mph very fast , wile having traction + a impressive play time ... like 30min-45min full trottle

this buggy will ONLY see hot asphalt , at the drag strip or a nice street

engines setups i came up with so far

#1 choice

Mamba XL
1515 2.5d 1700kv
8s
4.2v cell - 55,440Rpm /3.7v cell Normal 48,840Rpm



#2 choice

mmm pack 2650kv
6s
4.2v cell - 66,780Rpm /3.7v cell Normal 58,830Rpm
approved by castle its self



#3 choice

Tekin Rx8 & T8
2050kv
6s
4.2v cell - 51,660Rpm /3.7v cell Normal 45,510Rpm

hoping this project could work i need some input on what setup to chose and any additional stuff

special thanks to Jeff for the help along everything * aka drknow65*

and sorry for my english :neutral:

100mph in a buggy isn't too hard

I wouldn't buy those alloy wheels, you'll bend them & end up throwing them away. Buy pre-mounted belted tyres (not sure if the Ofna's are still available) like GRP M01's

http://www.grpgandini.it/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypag e.tpl&product_id=66&category_id=25&option=com_virt uemart&Itemid=6〈=en

Use your choice second motor/esc combo for pure speed runs only (will get way too hot after a few passes) otherwise get the 2200 combo & run 6S but be prepared to gear down a little to manage heat while you're not trying to set records

Lower all the shocks (6-8mm) by installing fuel tube internally on the shafts

For speed runs; gear it to the moon, don't run at night & make sure there are no kids or animals around

Get video

I love speed builds, just never had the courage to build one myself, something about dirt and jumps just makes this hobby so much fun.
Pretty extensive list of goodies.
It is a hard choice on the Motor... I would say a 1800 on 6s and gear it crazy.
Why not stick with the stock chassis for weight savings?

love the aluminium look :neutral:

Going high speed is not about looks and add ons, it's a bout speed and if what you are doing doesn't help the vehicle for the purpose, don't use it.

All the lights and BS take up space, add weight, and don't do anything to make the vehicle faster. Just breaking 70 mph in an rc is an experience. When you get up to 100 the effects compound. It's trickier than it appears.

Just from an aerodynamics standpoint and keeping the vehicle on the ground you are in for some work and a lot of trial and error.

Good luck though!

I think the biggest suprise is going to be the fact that play time is going to be limited while waiting for everything to cool down when geared so high. 30min runtime is no problem when you count the 5 min of cool down time after 2 minutes of running. Get a big motor if you're going to keep it geared high all the time. 1717 or a 1527 have alot more torque to pull that kind of gearing and won't heat up as fast.

wont fit

thats why i chosed the 1515

the ve8 has maximum 76mm clearence , or else it rub's on the steering post

Have a search through some older threads, there's more than enough go fast info about buggies...like this one

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...hlight=100+mph

yeah he's a guy from my hood , listen im worried he's gething 100mph speeds with 34tooth spur & 25 tooth pinion

im stuck with my 50tooth spur gear and a 4.3.1 diff ratio

whats my solution ?

What's the issue preventing you from using a smaller spur? And also 3.3:1 standard buggy diff ratio?

I can use a rc8 center diff + 43t spur but for the diff ... Forget it to much work

If i gear this to high i wont have the torque i need for drag starts

Id rather stay stock spur

You can use Jammin and Kyosho spurs with your HotBodies center diff, so you could use a 48T, 46T, or 44T. That's enough to squeeze out a bit of extra speed, and if you keep the 4.3:1 F/R diffs there still should be plenty of torque with a quality 4-pole motor on 6S.

Most options for increasing speed will reduce overall torque (higher rollout from either bigger tires or lower gear reduction, higher kv motor). The other main option is increase the voltage, but along with that come a few other things to consider.

I have a 44T Jammin spur that is too small for my gearing, like new, if you want to give it a try let me know.

FYI, it's going to take work for 100 mph to happen. Your going to have to do some customization somewhere. This isn't a cookie cutter deal.

If you're expecting to just slap everything on and being busting 100 this week, you are in for a surprise.

Dragracing and speedruns require different gearing. You can't run the same gearing for both, as one setup is for acceleration and the other for speed. Soft belted tires for Dragracing and Hard belted tires for speedruns.

My preferred motor choice are 2 pole for dragracing and 4 pole for speedruns.

I hate to open the can of worms but maybe look at getting some higher quality packs, like Hyperion. From what I have seen and read, lipos go from room temp to to close to hot after a speed run at high gearing. So the better the pack the better the chance of reaching a high speed.

I agree with ridding yourself of all the bling, it is unnecessary and adds weight. The lighter the buggy the less energy needed to push the car to higher speeds. Maybe look into graphite parts and unnecessary parts like a rx box or the plastic case on the mmm. As I have said I have always thought of building a speedster, so my head is chopped full of ideas.

thanks dude :smile:

as for the drag and speed runs ... they have to be combined !

i need this buggy to do 0-100mph very quick !

the average fast drag car real scale is going to rip me if i cant have fast start ups and be able to hit 100mph atleast , they cross the line at a average 100mph

so i need the drag & speed setup in one buggy

is it possible ?

heat ... listen 1/4 mile isint much run time , i could expect it to get hot but not worried it wont burn because a 1/4 run if im lucky i could get 10-14 second run time , then if i just want to play with it in the streets or what ever , i could set my remote control to give 80% of power when i want to play safe nothing should heat up or burn

what do u guys think ?

thanks !

+1 Read up on the Insane Speedruns. And look at how they run 1:1 cars on the Bonneville Salt Flats; completely different animal than the quarter mile.

It's definitely all about give and take. To get more acceleration you're going to sacrifice speed, and vice versa. It's that damn math and physics trying to ruin all of our fun!

A couple of points;

The warmer the cells, the lower the resistance. Speed runs like cells that are warm & ready to go...I warm mine before a run to get the best from the first run or two. It works well, a lot of boat guys do the same. Give them a quick peak charge as they are warming too

Weight can be your friend with speed runs also however it does increase acceleration times

Ditch the bling

Remember posts #13, 14 in this thread...your thinking will evolve & you will understand the benefit of these comments

Not sure about your RC experience but driving a buggy in a straight line at 50 is easy enough, 60 gets a little harder. 70 is the threshold speed IMO, everything past this point is a challenge...100 is probably twice as hard as 70

You will need to spend time on your throttle & braking setup also. Braking at 100 is tricky also...I use some initial drag brake (say 15%) to let it settle off throttle & then brake (say 35%) to a slow stop

i think im going to end up buying the mmm 2650kv kit , 26t pinion 44t spur and thats it ... its gething to complicated

i thought doing 100mph in a 4wd buggy was pretty easy. i did it with a 43T spur and a 26-28t pinion with grp tires and a slightly modded rc8 wing. i did it in a losi 8ight with an rc-monster motor mount. that was the only mount i ever found that could handle up to a 30t pinion. this summer, i'm gonna do a run with the 30T i got. i need to see that one go. :)

batteries....

i can do it on hyperion packs all day long. their packs are really powerful, but it took alot of tries on HK packs, and i puffed several trying to get there.

power combo...

i used a 2650 with a mmm esc.


body...i used a slightly modded hard-drive nitro body.


X-treme rc magazine got a vorza to 100 pretty easily by changing the diff gear and gearing the piss out of it.

i thought driving the buggy at 100 was pie. it was very very easy imo. once you get the suspension right (my springs were very soft) it's just correct alignment and a gentle ease up to speed with your buggy sitting very low. i never did any splitter wings or anything...imo it was not necessary.

i always did my speed runs in the summer time because imo, you get a ton more traction with a hot street.

good luck, you ought to be able to get there .

If you look at it like all this stuff that needs to be done at once it will seem overwhelming. Look at it more like a process and progression. Start out with the 26T pinion and 44T spur, and see how fast it goes. Run it like that and get some practice driving it. Then a little at a time you can start modifying, upgrading, customizing. Try do make it so each thing you do gives you some type of quantifiable improvement (even just 1-2mph, or a little easier to drive). Doesn't have to be major things, maybe just a different set of springs or different wing angle. Over time you can build the ultimate speed machine. But it won't happen overnight.

Yeah your right , but what motor should i start with , 2650kv mmm on 6s ? I think thats the winner doesnt matter if it heats up

but what motor is that ? the one that come with the mmm kit 2650kv is it a 1512 or a 1515 ?

Huh? The 2650kv CC motor is a 1512. The 1515 is a 2200kv.

The 2200 will be more powerful in the end and allow you more gearing options without heating up as quickly. There's more to the mix than KV alone.

1518 (1800kv), Mamba XL, 8S 2650mah 40/50c lipos :whistle:

Just a thought on the tires, I just saw these added to the IGT Hobbies website. Alpha Racing belted slicks. They are supposedly made for high-speed brushless applications and tested at up to 120mph.

http://www.igthobbies.com/product_p/alp12704.htm

In a related note, Bill at IGT Hobbies posted that he will now be carrying RC-Monster products, which is awesome!

lollll hey jeff

nah that 1518 motor doesnt fit :oops:

but the 1515 yes

im confused ... so many choices , so many kv's .... i just what to do my choice ones ... :neutral:

nice tires but cant find anymore info , picture :mdr: , diameter size

good thing its a canadian company so might be cheaper :)

Fastest motor on 8S with the size limit in mind, Neu 1515/1.5y

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-5y-motor.html

You can find more info at this link, scroll down a bit. The diameter will be very close to any of the other 1/8 slicks available.

http://maxvelocityracing.com/default.aspx

I'm pretty sure Alpha RC is actually based out of Brazil.

omg they look so good * the black wheels & the way the tire is staggered .. kinda looks like my wabbit lol :surprised:

this is the web site i looked at http://alphatires.ca/

is it the same company ?

Btw simplechamp , the kyoshio spur gear wont fit the ve8 , the only one that fits there is the ve8 50t one ... but , Harley @ HHH industries did something cool

look at this setup --> http://i856.photobucket.com/albums/a...AEcntrdiff.jpg

and found this --->

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

only need couple of washers to have the perfect off set and im set ! ...so happyy ! :mdr:

OK I see now, I thought the VE8 used the same spurs as D8/D8T.

You should be able to fit any of the "smaller" sized center diffs in there with shims (AE, Mugen, Losi, Xray) but the AE is probably as cheap as any. I do the same thing with the shims to put the Slipperential in my Jammin.

I tried the AE diff in my Ve8, but it took way more shims than I was comfortable with. I ended up using the 46t plastic spur from a Nexx8.

Slipperential ? heard very little about it whats that ? for better traction ?

nah im not worried , ones the top plastic part is bolted down, then its like a box , wont move anywhere

why not the 1515/2.5d ?

Delta (D) winds make more power on the bottom end, Y's (just like the cymbol) make more power on the top end. Should be a little easier on the gear train on startup and give a little more push at the end of it's rpm range.

The 1.5y should end up right about 45k rpm with the load. I think even with the little extra kv rpm the 2.5d may not spin as fast at the end with the load.

You could push it to the 2D and get more rpm, but your maxing out the rpm even with a load, and if it spins the tires on a fresh pack it will over rev. Not to mention how slow your going to need to roll on the throttle.