12 cell Rustler
 

I have a thread started, but im onto a different topic now. Heres a link to a video GO TO POST #49 http://www.rccrawler.com/forum/showt...t=30603&page=2 How can I get a rustler going that fast with 12 cells, and as much torque for no more that $300 (I would use it for sand only). I already know I want the MGM 120, but what motor? Someone told me the 8L is to big, and powerful for a rustler. Would the 4300 work? Will it get going 50-55 mph, and have alot of torque? can it handle the cells? I will go to $350

Yeah, I remember that thread. Check out post #33 :D.

Well, that motor would rip your rusty to peices, but the rustler's drivetrain is a weak design anyway.

Other than that, that would be the system to get. (8L and MGM 120)

Maybe if you sold your rusty for something like an associated T2 (like Ryan's) or even a T3, then you could do it. Other wise, you'd have to spend at least $100 beefing up the rusty.

lehner 4200 can handle 14.4v, but probably wont last too long.

how about a nemisis/fiego 12s on 14.4v+ that is what i have in my rustler buggy thing, havent got to run it yet though?

justin

i think he settled on a basic 3100 on 12 cells.

That should work pretty well, however I'll second the 12s.

Where can i find a fiegao 12s? On 12 cells would the fiegao be faster, and have more torque than the lehner 3100?

Isnt that Associated truck like $300? You know the guy driving the truck in the video? I dont have a rustler et, so i wouldnt have to sell anything, but what would i have to beef up in the rustler? What motor is that in the movie?

well.... for the stampede/rustler transmission to be bulletproof you want:

1. coldfusion SS diff gear $65
2. aluminum idler $13
3. steel top gear (already available to you).
4. FLM aluminum gearcase $65 (this keeps things tight, and acts as giant heatsink).
5. ball bearings throughout transmission.
6. steel output yokes or CVD's.
7. slipper pegs (not balls).
8. lithium grease (generous amount throughout transmission).

basically you are looking at a $200+ transmission to be completely bulletproof.

i have this setup in 2x of my rustlers, and 2x stampedes without the FLM case. you do notice quite a difference in noise with the FLM case - they are much quiter.

justin

I'll second this list as well. These are the same parts I have in the tranny of my full FLM Pede:

http://onelouds10.com/flm_pede1.jpg

http://onelouds10.com/flm_pede3.jpg

I guess it will be cheaper to get a associated truck. Is a associated truck stronger than the rustler? I could only find the RC10T4. Is hte tranny strong enough in that truck for a feigao 8L on 12 cells? How much faster is a Feigao 8L on 12 cells than a Lehner 3100 on 12 cells.

Whats the difference between the RC10T4 factory team truck, and the Regular RC10T4? Which should i get. I know where to get the Factory team for $199, and the regular one for $159.

Here's a comparison table:

http://teamassociated.com/shusting/C...t4_compare.htm

I have a xl 3100 in the pede now but have not ran over 7 cells .

What speeds would i get out of this set up? Also would it have alot of power?

- Team associated RC10T4 Factory truck (Ultimate Hobbies) = $200
- 2x GP3700 6 Cell battery packs (Off shore electrics) = $90
- MGM 120 Controller (RC Monster) = $220
- Feigao 540 12s (Off Shore Electrics) = $70
TOTAL = $580

You could go cheaper and use the MGM Compro 8012, the 12012 is overkill. Depending on the gearing, you can expect 50mph for sure in a straight line. In a 2wd 1/10 stadium truck, speeds higher than that are just stupid! I've hit 57.6mph on 4s Lipo with this motor in my Rustler, and could hit higher if I have better range.

I wouldn't put that much power in a T4, they can be kinda fragile everywhere but the tranny. T2's can go for as little as $60 on ebay, and are built like tanks. I got mine for $30 as a roller missing some screws and the steering bellcrank setup, but it had Lunsford turnbuckles all around at least. I put a few bucks into it, and ran it with a Lehner 5300 for quite a while and had a bunch of fun, still haven't broken anything either......and I don't exactly go easy on it.

I don't know about a T4, but I had a T3 and hated it. It was a nice truck except for the flimsy top chassis plate that snapped on every head-on or nose dive landing, even w/ a 19t. My bro in-law had a rustler and its a tank. Handles like one too, but I love this tough truck. I say keep the rusty if you're a basher.

So a T2 would be the best choice?

I would very strongly recommend a T2. Its the most durable stadium truck I've ever owned. I picked my last one up off ebay for $40 and it was a complete roller with MIP cvd's, lunsford turnbuckles, RPM wheels and a Proline shell. Not forgetting it comes with a tub alloy chassis as standard, and is mostly part compatible with the RC10GT..so hobby shop's stock quite a few parts for it.

You can mod the hell out of them too to make them even stronger. RPM make front/rear wishbones & bodyposts, and GPM make some very nice rear arm mounts (hobbyetc had them on sale in the RC10 catagory for $5...$5!! what a price). I've ran my T2 very hard - involving lots of trees, curbs, and a great BMX track. The tranny is very strong - the stock gears are good up to 8-9 cells, beyond that I recommend Robinson Racing alloy ones - idler is $12, diff gear is around $15, and if you can find one a titanium topshaft goes for around $20 (not necessary, but I got one anyway). This tranny I ran on 12 cells with an 8L for a few hours running and its still going good.

Are T3's as strong? I can get a T3 for $30.

T3's are not as strong, but are still stronger than a T4. They are lighter and handle better than a T2, but don't have its impressive strength (still fairly strong though).

Does anyone have a T2 they want to sell?

Since i swiched to a different motor, would the rustler work without any tranny upgrades?

You pretty much need an aluminum idler gear in the transmission no matter what motor you use.

Im having trouble finding a T2 where can i get an aluminum idler for a T2?

Well i offered a guy on RCU $100 for a T3 with a body, and charger. He said yes. http://www.rcuniverse.com/market/item.cfm?itemId=185530 should i do it?

I'd do a little more shopping around. That radio is a bit outdated, that charger is junk, and those batteries are garbage. I would just start with a rolling chassis and buy the electronics for it.

How about this one?
http://cgi.ebay.com/rc10-t3-not-t4_W...QQcmdZViewItem

I didnt buy the electronics. I offered $100 shipped for the roller. Should i tell him $80 shipped

I really really wouldn't get that truck as a basher, but its up to you. Still to high a price too. As above, I had one and it would snap the upper chassis ($4) plate on even a moderate front end hit. Additionally the plate attaches to the chassis by two raised pegs which also easily break off, and you are out buying a new $25 chassis as well to get it repaired. Not to mention this weakness bends the alu bottom chassis plate, which lives once unbent but eventually strips/snaps.

I had it for quite a while before I got fed up to buy a rustler. Its a tank. I even bought my wife a nice used graphite Losi XXT combo for $100. Its been quite a bit stronger than the T3, and won't take out the chassis if the upper plate snaps. Look for once of these first, or contact me. I have a number of good spare T3 parts (arms, plates, whole tranny, MIPs, loads of tires) that I no longer need if you really decide to go that route.

You don't need an alum. idler for a T2, the Rusty is the one that needs that gear. The Stealth tranny in the T2 is darn near bomb proof, super smooth too.

For an alloy idler for the T2 tranny purchase a Robinson Racing RC10 GT one. They use the same idler for the RC10 (stealth), T2, T3, B2, B3, GT. Dabid is right though you don't need one unless you run a *lot* of power through it like I did.

The T3 weakness thats been pointed out is its biggest flaw, head on impacts will often crack the upper brace. The easy solution is to keep an eye out on ebay for an alloy one, Trinity & Racers Edge used to make them. My solution on my B3 is a lexan plate, with the steering supported by RC10 GT posts. This car has taken some serious punishment but the top plate (and chassis mounts for that matter) are still good. The beauty of it is, if the chassis mounts go, you can just use a bit of alloy as a standoff to run the screw through to the main part of the chassis. A friend of mine has very easy CNC access so I may get him to make a couple of my braces (or if I can be bothered to CAD the stock plate, I could get them made as well, but I prefer my modified design, it free's up the steering a load as well).

Btw, I wouldn't buy that guys T3, I picked one up that was in *really* good condition, factory team spec with all the extra's, and a pro-painted shell, for $60 last November off ebay. I'm sure you can find as good a deal these days.

if your going for a basher i would certainly stay away from a t3. i would just get the rustler. if will be nice and all you need is a few upgrades to make it bulletproof.

I added everything up for the price on a rustler,and i thinkit will be cheaperstill to buy a T2. I would need a tranny sterring,bearings,and driveshafts for a rustler

yeah you should get the rustler. I have a nitro rustler and haven't had one problem and yes I bash and race and roll all that fun stuff. by the time the t2 breaks and you fix it. it will cost the same because the rustler is more durable

I'm very very biased against the Rustler, but thats based primarily on when I had a Stampede (Same car, different chassis). I disliked a lot of things about its design, espically regarding the transmission and related bits. I mean, plastic motor plate moulded into the gearbox? Bleh. And if you crack a rear arm mount, why yes you have to rebuild the entire transmission with a new case to fix it. For a cheap and cheerful car its good, but you can do a lot better for less if you go 2nd hand like the T2. For the price of a Rustler you could get a T2 - shop about on ebay for one with lunsford turnbuckles and mip cvd's (a lot of the ones that pop up have these), and get alloy arm mounts, RPM f/r arms and bodyposts, some decent tyres and have change left.

Only thing the Rustler has going for it, is a lot more people own and drive it, so its easier to find info on. In my opinion thats it.

I might get a video of my T2 next time I run it, my new mobile takes pretty good video's for a phone, then you'll see why I like it :)

Oh btw, in a T2, with only a very very simple modification I came up with last year, you can fit 9 cells flat, down the middle of the chassis. This gives some *serious* power, and keeps the weight nice and low. All you need is another pair of servo mounts, a small bit of lexan, plexiglass or alloy to make a very basic plate, and a part of the T3 steering bellcrank which costs like $3. It moves the steering servo and turns it 90 degrees, allowing you to fill the chassis with cells.

yah ok. Here's the one I own remember not one problem.www.rcpics.net/member/nrustler3

I dont really bash. Some times i would do 2-3 feet jumps. I would almost only run this truck on sand. I live 1/2 mile from the beach. Watch the video on the first post. Thats all i would do with it. Do the suspention armsbreak alot on a T3 compare to T2? Or only the chassis. I can dosomemachining with aluminum, and i know a great welder that can make me a aluminum chassis. I could make the suspention arms for the T3 they look fairly easy. Just rough cut the aluminum shape, clean up the edges on a mill, and drill some holes.

I never actually broken a rear wishbone on my T3, I bashed it quite a bit, and raced it last summer. The fronts break more often, but still quite strong, I came up with a solution to that as well :D

Get a pair of RPM front arms for the RC10 GT/T2/T, you will need to trim them on the rear edges to stop contact with the kickup plate (only very slightly, I did it with a sharp knife), these are a bit shorter than T3 arms, to balance it out you can get some Losi front axles for the XXXT - Lunsford do some quite cheap, Duratrax Evader ones work as well. Mount them in a pair of Losi steering arms, and its back to its original width, but with unbreakable front arms and titanium axles. You can cram the Losi axles into the standard steering arms, a friend of mine got some RPM T3 steering arms and drilled them out slightly for a perfect fit, would be the best option if you have a drill.

Btw..nrustler, have you ever ran a T2? No? Then don't claim a Rustler is stronger. Parts used on a Rustler are WEAKER, if you like I have a pair of bent C hubs I had to replace on my Stampede before I could sell it on, complete with bent kingpins I can take a pic of for you. This was from bouncing off a curb at a slow speed (27T brushed!), my T2 has taken much harder knocks and simply not cared. Your N Rustler looks nice and all and I'm pleased it runs good for you, but lets look at what you got for your money - plastic shocks with inferior material shafts, possibly the worst transmission design ever in a mainstream car, and overly flexible materials used throughout. Do the Rustlers even come with adjustable turnbuckles?

And there alot stronger than stock? Will the Rear T2 rpm arms work to?

No, the rear will not work - too short for the cvds to fit, if you had a custom chassis made for it, you could widen the chassis at the back to move the arm mounts out further, which would let you run them. To be hoenst though the rears are strong and pretty unlikely to fail on you.

The RPM arms are pretty indestructable - I've never broken one, the key to it is they're pretty flexible when enough load is put on them, but they always return to their original shape. Same goes for any RPM parts - in my opinion its some of the best parts you can buy for bashing.