Pimpy style summit!
 

So I just pulled the trigger on a bunch of summit parts. Figured I had alot of revo stuff laying around so I would get it together and build me a big crawler thingy!!!

Basic stock erevo chassis with the required summit diffs and linkages. 2 speed tranny with the wide ratio gears. I have cvds for the wheels and stock center drives.

Wheels will be axial beadlocks with 40 series mudslingers!!! 7.5 inches tall and they look too cool!

Power will be from a CC outrunner, big ole motor, 770 kv. 4s lipo, and a modded MM for now. Might get a MMpro if I can find a good deal.

Going to gear for 30mph in 2nd, and around 10mph in 1st. 40/25 mod1 gearing would do that, will mock it up and see if it fits...

So wadda yall think?

sounds like fun

I see many a stripped wheel hex in your future...

yeah the splines hexes and wheels reaaly are a good thing on these summits!

Hmm, I do have some 23mm hex wheels (the big cen and some 40 series moabs on proline beadlocks) but the axials I have for the slingers are 17mm hex. Think it will be an issue?


I have the traxxas 17mm slined style hex, but do want a beadlock wheel. Does traxxas or anyone make a beadlock with the splined setup in the wheel hub?

not that i have ever seen

I'm sure you wouldn't have any trouble with the 23mm hexes. Maybe the 17mm will be OK, too, if they are splined. I'm just going on the hunch that the CC outrunners are going to make loads of torque compared to any motor normally found in a Summit.

Hmm, I could not find a pic of the inside of a traxxas splined wheel. Anyone have one?

I know the traxxas 17mm hubs will fit any 17mm rim, I also have the ofna blue hex adapters and plenty of the maxximizer hex hubs and savage large wheel nuts. So I have a few options.

I will start with 17mm wheels and go from there.

And the castle 3434 770kv motor fits nicely on the erevo/summit motor mount. I had to use the low cg holes as a 25t mod 1 pinion would not fit in otherwise. The castle motors have 1 pair of 25mm spaced m3 threaded holes and 1 pair of 30mm m3 threaded holes. I use the 25mm spacing and the lcg holes in the mount to fit the 25t mod 1 pinion.

I am using a 40t mod1 nitro revo spur gear, nothing larger will fit with the 15t pinion and the stock adjustment slot. I can go down to a 34t pinion if I want more speed, but I think 30mph in 2nd gear will be plenty for this beast.

Now for a question: do you think I can run the revo setback rear arms with a set of cvds? I would like the extra wheelbase, but can sacrifice if there will be issues. I understand it puts the rear driveshafts at an angle, will this be an issue? For some reason I vaguely remember someone having problems with cvds and not sliders with the setbacks...

The setback arms, IIRC, don't put it at an extreme angle. I've actually heard the sliders can be better for crawling just due to the twist that is allowed and the flex they give. CVDs would be better for straight to the ground power but a lot of guys have trouble with them in low speed crawling with high articulating suspensions.

Sounds like a sweet project.

Thanks!

I was thinking that the slider style summit shafts with a cvd on each end might be better than the metal cvds I have. But since the ebay sells want an arm (and 2 legs) for them I will try it out with what I have.

Ok, got my chassis and parts today!!!

Started putting it all together. Running the extened rear arms on the rear setting for a 15" wheelbase. The cvds I have work great, but I had to scare up some med length diff outputs cups to stop the cvd shaft binding at full droop. These cups look just like a stock mip cup, so it is likely what the cvds should run with. I have no idea of the mfg of the cvds, or the cups, this is all used stuff that I got 2nd hand.

I had planned to run a singe 3rd channel servo and actuate the diff locks and tranny gear shifting with just that servo. Planed to have the diffs open in 2nd gear, and locked in 1st. Well, that is not going to happen with the stock linkages, and not likely to work with anything else I can come up with.

Thinking I will just get the traxxas 2.4ghz setup that comes with a stock summit, and mod it so I can use the 4th and 5th channels independantly, so I can lock or unlock either diff at will. Plus it will be good to get another rasio setup, in case the m11 craps out.

Most of the chassis is built, need to put in all of the cvds and install the steering components. I think I will run a pair of titanium gear hitec servos, as I have them handy.

I do have 1 question, anyone know of a cheap servo I can use for the shifting and diff locks? I am not interested in the waterproof capabilities of the stock 2065 servos, and if I plan to spend 12 bucks each (cheapest I found on ebay) for a tiny servo I would like it metal geared... They are listed as micro servos, will any servo fit? Guessing I have to have futaba splines to fit the stock servo saves/linkages.

Any help will be greatly appreciated!

Dug up specs for the shift servos:

http://www.servodatabase.com/servo/traxxas/2065

Going by that info this servo looks great, metal geared, digital and less than 8 bucks shipped. I will buy 3, just in case one is a tosser.

http://www.hobbypartz.com/9gexidimeges.html

Heres another, closer to the spec of the traxxas, but metal geared, might go with this as it is a bit stronger than the above listed servo:

http://www.hobbypartz.com/servo-mg90.html

sounds like progress has been made yet i see no pictures :)

That's right!

Whare's the pitchers? :lol:

Thanks for the help guys...

You will get to see pics when I say so, and not a minute sooner. Damn kids.

Imagine a half finished rc truck with no electronics on it and you get a pretty good idea.

I am not doing a build thread of a stock truck, that would be ghey.

ALright Alright... Calm that yapper mr Pimp haha

Ok, so I broke out the old dx6 I bought a few yrs ago to use with a MOA crawler. Set it up and I think it will work great for the summit.

Will set it up as follows:

Right aux switch will be for the rear diff lock
Left aux switch will be for the front diff lock
Throttle (left stick up and down) will shift the trans from high to low)
Left stick side to side will be for steering
Right stick up and down will be for throttle.

I figured that with enough fooling with trims and epa I can get it to work. I have tested it with a bunch of servos, but need to hook up an esc and see if it will program. My 1st stick radio, feels alot different to a wheel radio.

you must be younger than I thought, my first 5 or 6 rc's had stick remotes.

I am 30, but I only got into hobby grade rc about 5yrs ago.

for some reason i thought you were in your late 30s

Nope, not an old geezer like hippie or Jerry (grandpa)...

I see where you could make that mistake, my vast wisdom far outnumbers my years...:rofl:

So after alot of fooling and work, I have all of the shift and diff lock servos working. Using the dx6 I have independant control of the front and rear diff locks.

Currently have the tranny shift servo on the throttle channel (left stick), I like it there. Full throttle is 2nd gear, and full down on the left stick is low gear. I plan to use the left and right on the left stick for steering.

I also have almost finished making the various cvds for the drivetrain. I have a stock traxxas emaxx ceneter cvd for the front center cvd. Rear center cvd is a lst1 cvd coupled with a chinese adapter to fit the rear diff input.

Wheels cvds are mip revo cvds on the non diff lock sides, but since the diff lock sides on the front and rear diffs require a shorter cvd I had to get creative.

I found some very old mip cvds for lst1 in my parts box. The revo axles will fit these, so I cut the shafts down and welded them to the correct length. Most of my time was spent making a jig to hold the cut shafts for welding. Worked well on the 1st so I will make the other tomorrow.

I will assemble my 40 series mud slingers and axial beadlocks tomorrow. Mocked 1 of them up tonight and did some measuerments. Wheelbase is 15", overall length will be about 21". With the almost full offset axial wheels I will have right at 19" width, from outside of the tires. So this truck will be about square!!! The big azz slingers look great and the proline 650 body looks "tits". I was getting a bit sick of this build, but after getting the servos to work I feel better.

And the servos were a bitch. If I can offer any advice to the summit build, buy the stock traxxas sub micro servos. They fit the space and mounts, and the splines fit the traxxas linkages (of course). The hobbypartz metal geared servos I bought were too tal, and the splines were alot smaller. I had to section parts of the servo arms together with trimmed traxxas parts to get it to work. I am actually running a stock traxxas sub micro servo for the rear diff lock, as I had one laying around. I will say the metal geared servos are twice as fast, feel about 10 times as strong, and are a cool black color. But they were a biznitch to fit. I will likely put the 3rd on in place of the traxxas servo, but not till I get some wheel time on this turd.

Will be running a mamba max, with a ccbec. 4s lipo thru the 770 kv cc outrunner. Should be great, and with the full metal cvd drivetrain I expect it to not break. Hopefully. The slingers are going to place quite a load on it.

Wow pimp, the pictures look great and really illustrate all the time and effort you put into this build.:diablo:

I was about to say the same thing!
What camera are you using? A Nikon D3? :lol:

am i missing something here?

yes, pictures. As in:

"This thread is useless"

ahhhhhh... sarcasm hah....

Yea linc! Come on! Get your act together ha

OH, I am SO sorry i am not posting a trillion pics of a bunch of parts in the baggies... We all cannot be like you, douche.

The difference is I can post pics of a finished truck...

Asshat.

Ok here are pics. Hope all of you whiners like them.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4911.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4912.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4913.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4914.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4915.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4916.jpg

Thanks Pimp! -Sweetcheeks McAsshat

Well, The third pic is a little out of focus;) Nice work Pimp.

Ok, got it driveable. Will have pics up this afternoon.

Gave it a test run on 3s lipo. Decided that having the steering on the left stick was too much for my limited coordination, so I put it on the right stick with the throttle. Much better. With the 40 series slingers this truck has a ton of traction.

All controls are working as they should, and the 9100t seems to be turning the wheels ok. would like a more powerful servo, might give one of those hv turnigy servos a try, on 3s lipo of course!

I do have 2 4s 3600 12c lipos that I can run in parallel, not the highest discharge capable lipos but this truck does not have a ton of load... We will see, given the performance on 3s I will be gearing it down on 4s, as it is plenty fast in 2nd gear now.

Looks like a proline f650 body will be a good fit, that body fits a 15" wb nicely.

I know those Slingers are pretty big tires, but a 9100T isn't enough to turn them to your liking??? I've had some pretty big tires on my rigs and always thought my 9000T was the shiznit. Who makes the Slingers btw?

After doing another run tonight I was paying more attention to the servo performance. Turns out the servo saver spring is too weak... I will have to shim it, or if there is a stronger replacement maybe someone could link it up here?

I have had great success with jr servos, used the old 9000t alot and have a handful of 9100t servos in various vehicles. I also have a few of the big dog 8711 servos. I prefer jr servos to just about any other servo i have tried. I am temped to get one of those turnigy hv servos, and driect wire a 11.1v lipo to it... That is alot of power there!!!

Here are a few pics to how the wiring setup.

Made an elevated tray to hold the receiver. Use a few diff posts from a hyper7, and a scrap piece of kydex. Also found an antenna holder from a tamiya something or other. The bec is double stuck to the battery vent. You can also see my esc signal wire routing, kinda funny but I wanted to make sure it did not get cought in the outrunner rotating can.

I will say this cc outrunner is very torquey. I currently have the startup at low and with 4s lipo it has a very smooth start in both 1st and 2nd gear. My paralleld 12c lipos are ok, but I have a 6500mah 35c hyperion pack on the way for this build. Should shave some weight and give me a bit more discharge capability.

Everything works great, and I manged to snap a welded cvd shaft, I was jumping curbs. Must do around 30mph in 2nd gear. All temps are great, and it will almost wheelie. I have the punch control set at 50% and may well go up to 75%. No real need for tons of acceleration in this beast, especially with me on a stick radio controlling it!!! I am getting better, but it still feels weird to not use a wheel radio.

http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4921.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4922.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4923.jpg
http://i206.photobucket.com/albums/b...p/DSCF4924.jpg

Traxxas part #5344x is the heavy duty servo saver spring, I always ran one and never had any issues with it being weak. Although you might be able to put a washer under it to shim the stocker, not sure how effective that will be. Wish they made a stronger one for the 3905 Emaxx, my stocker is so loose it's ridiculous.

Thanks, I will have to see if the lhs has that on the shelf. If not I will add it to my order list.