lightening emaxxs
 

Hiya guys, new to this site, some queries below;

Has anybody taken the front driveshafts out of their emaxx and noticed a difference?
I've got some proline velocity rims and bow tyres in the attemp to make the thing a bit quicker and i've removed the front driveshafts just to see the difference. I'd like to go brushless but cost stops me. Any other ideas on lightening a emaxx for some extra speed and acceleration?

You might get a marginal speed increase by removing the front drive train (diffs, sriveshaft etc.), but I don't think it will be worth it, as it won't be nearly as driveable in 2wd. Wheels and tires are a big impact (you already did this). You could also drop to 4 shocks and throw on a more aerodynamic body. All this won't add up to a whole lot. Going to 7 cell packs will gain you a decent amount of speed as well.

UE titanium CVD's are 6 grams lighter than stock per corner. 2wd you'll find, as mike said uncontrollable. The rear two wheels will most likley spin, baloon, while you still don't get anywhere.

4 Shocks?
 

When u say 4 shocks instead of eight, do you mean something similar to the team losi ones, or are there others you can recomend?

Thanks for the help also, rebuilding will comence once i finish................how many assignments was it.

Matt

Guys that are running 4 shocks are using the Big Bores or RacerX.

Just use a heavier oil with four shocks and a stiffer spring.

I find that if you do that with stock a-arms it can cause them to break more easy by putting more pressure on 1 side. It broke my stock shocks and a-arms. The E-maxx will never be a light truck with its design. Just get some 3300 GP 7 cells and that wil lbe plenty of speed.

I dont know about that, my truck is mostly stock, not for long though, and weighs almost two pounds less than stock with a few minor custom upgrades and 4 shocks with trinity blues and 50 wt oil, it runs loke a charm on my track.

look at all your steel rotating parts.....then do an internet search for anything titanium or aluminum. look for lightened gears, lightened shafts. what about the gorillamaxx chasiss, seems like it might be a little lighter. titanium turnbuckles...

also you might want to lock it into second gear and remove the shifting servo, and put a spool in the rear if your racing. also if will balance the weight a little more front/rear if you simple turn the tranny 180 degrees. if you do that you will also have to flip the gearboxes 180 degrees so it doesnt take off in reverse. also, you will save alot of weight if you do alot of small things like battery straps instead of the stock bars, trim the bottom of the body post, trim the skids, not using alot of aluminum, remove the plastic gear cover, ect... the list goes on.

Well, the biggest hit is changing tires. You can shave of a big fat 1 lbs+ on changing tires...

CF gmaxx chassis has got to be lighter than stock. A lot of unlimited engineering stuff is lighter and stronger than stock, but it comes with a price.

It is 2oz lighter than stock. I believe most of the ue stuff is heavier than stock, but a lot stroner. The titanium cvds/hinge pins/turnbucles are lighter - but not by much.

My RTRace e-maxx weighs in at around 8 pounds, Ready to run. It is all aluminum, too(g-maxx). Lipo batteries help keep the weight low, but I think I could get an e-maxx into the 6 pound range ready to run If I tried hard enough (although I wouldn' want to race it against the 12 pound trucks on the track, as it would get bullied off the track pretty easily!). G-maxx single speed conversion(and losing the extra servo and linkage)/wheels/tires/batteries/g-maxx parts are the key to keeping it light. I think a 6 pound emaxx would only need stock drivetrain parts as well, so this adds to the low weight.

Stupid question - but what do you weigh your trucks on?

A digital scale(I weighed most recently on HotnColds digital scale).

It really isn't overly difficult to get near 8 pounds with a brushless truck. If you fiigure the stock truck weighs 11 pounds, RTR it is fairly easy to get the weight down. you can save a pound in tires/wheels pretty easily, and another pound by using Lipo batteries and converting to the single speed conversion(and losing the extra servo). Already, the weight is under 9 pounds! Then, figure a Lehner basic xl weighs about as much as 1 titan, and the 9920 controller weighs less than the EVX, so you save another .5 pound, bringing the truck to less than 8.5 pounds. Then, drop another few ounces by removing the bumpers and switching to g-maxx skids. Voila!! An 8 pound e-maxx! The g-maxx chassis and extension adds an ounce or so back in, as do the cvds, but the g3 suspension(without the levers and using 4 shocks) brings this back into balance. Then, the UE VBS replaces the stock bulks/diffs with little change in weight, but a giant upgrade in durability. Not so hard to do, you see?

UE's weight to strength ratio his huge. You are right the cvds pins and buckles are lighter. If you don't have money for a gmaxx single speed conversion atleast take the first gear out and lock it into second. Are UE diffs lighter? They are defintily stronger. Replacing steel screws with aluminum screws will also lighten her up. But you run the risk of breaking screws.

i dont know how to get my truck lighter. i have tried so hard and its still over 10 pounds with only 12 cells . G-maxx CF chassis, 6 spider UE diffs, racer x, ga bulks, 40 series bowties and velo rims, all first gears removed, 8L on 12 cells and i will be at around 10 1/2 lbs. im thinking those new crime fighter tires will be really light. im almost to the point where i buy a revo and go brushless. any ideas on droping weight? mike, are you running those cut bowties on stock wheels? how do you get it that light? thanks guys

Two words: VBS and LiPos

Didn't you already post your maxx up for sale? Can't really back out now..

The GA bulks are very heavy. The VBS is very similar in weight to the stock diffs/bulks. Also, your truck is wearing bumpers and a wing, which is close to 1/2 pound. The 40 series tires may be a bit heavier than a modified bowtie or trinity Bokar(on better wheels), and the new crimefighters will be nice and light as well. The single speed tranny saves another couple ounces(especially including the servo). The Racer x suspension is only an ounce or so heavier than the stock suspension, so this is a worthwhile upgrade for sure. I also run the Lehner basic xl motor, which is around 4 or more ounces lighter than the Feidao "L". It all adds up, little by little. My truck is a little over 8 pounds, but it is closer to 8 pounds than 9 pounds. Also, even with 12 cells, I have 3/4 of a pound less weight in batteries alone. If you went to a lighter bulkhead(or VBS), lighter wheels and tires, Lipo batteries and removed the bumpers and wing, your truck would be way over a pound lighter and get longer runtimes with less stress on the parts. 10.5 pounds on a full aluminum race truck with all the trimmings isn't all that bad in the first place. You also have a receiver pack, which is almost a 1/4 pound of extra weight.

thanks mike,

im really short on cash, but i have some coming (a friend owes me) that will go into my truck. im gonna need a strobe, UBEC, im not gonna buy lipo...too much money for me. ill buy a bunch of 3300 6 cell packs. i may look into a Lehner motor too, but probley stay with the 8L. i will get some crime fighers and mount them to stock wheels to cut more weight. as long as i get below 10lbs ill be happy. thanks for your help guys

What wheels do you reccomend?

my truck is only 8 1/2 lbs. rtr with 12 cells. thats with heavy road rage tires and rpm claws rims. 40 series would make it lighter.

I just weigh two emaxxes on my postal scale-here is the results:

#1 - extended g-maxx w/raer x suspension and shocks, towerless vbs, bowtie tires on stock wheels, 18120 controller, basic xl motor - 8.75 pounds RTR with 14.8 Lipo 9 pounds RTR with 18.5v lipo.

#2 - G1 gmaxx with custom lower plate, g3 suspension, racer x shocks, basic xl motor, komodo tires on rpm titam wheels with 14.8v lipo - 7.75 pounds RTR!

i think with lipo and rims and tires i could have a 7 1/2 lbs. truck.

Without question a 7.5 pound truck could be done. Both my trucks are all aluminum with upgraded diffs and cvds. Stock diffs and driveshafts alone would reduce the weight quite a bit..

I wanted to buy that VBS system too, those things where out of stock, so i had to go for the FLM's.. I don't know what the weightdifference is between those and the VBS system. Got an idea Mike?

On that 7.75 lbs truck, you use 6/8 spider diffs as well?

The UE vbs is notieably lighter than the FLM combo bulk system. I don't know specifically, but the difference is a few ounces at least. The sub 8 pound truck uses maximizer diffs (or FLM-I don't remember which are in it) and proline(mip) cvds.

Where can I get the 40 Series or RPM rims from? Which are the light ones?

TOWER HOBBIES

There are so many different vendors.

I'd suggest a-main hobbies (slightly cheaper than tower)
http://www.amainhobbies.com/index.php?cPath=26_57

Velocity is the lightest, but they're all pretty similar. Look into the 23mm adapters, they add a little weight but it's worth it when it comes to longevity versus the standard hex size.

40 series mambos are the lightest 40 series rim actually. I automatically went to tower hobbies because I KNOW they have rpm rims I dunno about amain. Critters also has some great deals heres the link