Manne´s Flux bash build
 

Well, I have built a bash revo, modified trough the roof:lol: And now I´m stepping up, leaving Traxxas and building a little Hpi monster instead:party:

First of all I took a look at the weakpoints of the flux, this is what I came up with:

*Gearbox - HD gears is okay but not good enough in the long term.

*Rear tierods/knuckles - If you don´t break the knuckle you break the "tab" of the bulkhead.

*Chassis - can you say candycane?

*Hexes - I personaly can´t stand with those 17mm hexes, rims breaking all the time and I keep stripping the hexshape in the wheels.

*Internal gears in the diffs are to weak and doesn´t have enough shims from factory.

*The screws to the bumpers breaks sometimes and you can´t get them out.

*The upper hingepin retainers aren´t doing their job very well.

*The hingepin braces are too weak.

And worst of all, as Mc once said, it´s a big fat pig, and I don´t like that:whip:

So, I started to ask around on ebay if any seller that are deassembling new fluxes and parting them out were willing to remove the parts I didn´t want and just ship me a "roller". My request were answered by the seller Integrajspec.

This was the parts I didn´t want:

*No Esc.
*No reciever.
*No gearbox.
*No knuckles/steeringblocks ( the whole assembly out on the end of the a-arm).
*No bulheads.
*No wheels/tires.

Everything went smooth and my package arrived, I started to do some mokeups to see how I wanted things, so I ended up ditching the radio box and the whole motormount/plate assembly.

And I couldn´t find any site that had Goldenhorizons aluminum bulkheads in stock but I was lucky and accidently got some stock bulkheads from the guy I bought the roller from so that will have to do for now, I also ended up buying plastic knuckles for the front and Rear tie rod eliminators for the rear.

All the stuff:
http://images4.bilddagboken.se/72/_u...1302678494.jpg

I started with the diff shimming, I used four 0.1 shims ( like it came from factory ) under each small internal gear:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/77/_u...1302678503.jpg

And then I´m using one 0.2 shim under one of the big internal gears and no gasket between the ringgear and the diffcup:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/79/_u...1302678506.jpg

I will later on change to using the gasket and one 0.2 shim under each big internal gear.

Then I started with the project to get this little bugger in:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/76/_u...1302678499.jpg

This was the first mokeup:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/74/_u...1302678513.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/75/_u...1302678516.jpg

And then I changed to this:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/71/_u...1302678529.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/73/_u...1302678532.jpg

I´m using dual rear dogbones in order to get the extra length that was needed while using the revo gearbox:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/77/_u...1302678562.jpg

It still has about 2mm of play:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/74/_u...1302678559.jpg

But ofcourse the dude called problem would show up, the radiobox wasn´t no where near to fit...:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/75/_u...1302678538.jpg

So this is where I ditched the radiobox and started to think of other possibilitys:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/78/_u...1302678544.jpg


I made some mounts for the gearbox:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/79/_u...1302678568.jpg

Made some mounts for the servo:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/78/_u...1303121372.jpg

And mounted the reciever box among with all the other stuff:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/74/_u...1302678608.jpg

I installed bearings in the steering bellcrank:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/79/_u...1302678678.jpg

And mounted the bellcrank by using a bulkhead brace with the holes updrilled to 4mm:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/74/_u...1302678573.jpg

Mounted:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/80/_u...1302678583.jpg

After that I tried to mount my 23mm hubs from the Revo with Lst cvds...That didn´t turn out too good, I had forgotten that the savy doesn´t have the regular 1/8 setup when it comes to hubs... So I ordered some new ones.

Revo Vs Flux, Flux uses the bigger brighter ones:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/79/_u...1302678632.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/71/_u...1302678626.jpg


I also mounted the rear tierod eliminators, sadly I didn´t get the version I wanted ( wasn´t in stock ) so I got this one with a hole that makes the hub weaker....But it has been holding up great so far:whip::

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/72/_u...1302678651.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/78/_u...1302678660.jpg

After that I made a mount for my MMM:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/80/_u...1302678681.jpg


And installed the "braces" from the motor mount to stiffen up the chassis and to have something to mount the escplate on:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/77/_u...1302678579.jpg

I drilled holes in the bumbermounts to be able to use longer screws in order to get them out when they break:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/79/_u...1302678599.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/80/_u...1302678602.jpg

I glued the foams togheter and glued them secure in the batteryboxes:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/75/_u...1302678589.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/77/_u...1302678595.jpg

I also cross drilled the bodyclip holes to prevent them from bending and popping out when flipping over or landing on the roof:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/77/_u...1302992617.jpg

I installed a enginehead protector from a X 4.6 to give the rollbar and the rear tower some support from eachother:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/76/_u...1302678695.jpg

And as you can see I did put a nylon sock outside the MMM since my outwears cover hadn´t showed up at the time:lol:

It all came along nicely! :yipi::

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/71/_u...1302678666.jpg

I would like to say thanks to all the members who builds and modifies stuff each and every day for all your informational threads and posts.

I still have alot of work to do with the truck, I haven´t decided if I´m going for rpm arms or not, If I should go for Tcs 5mm chassis or not or If I should stick with the stock bulks, get bashcat braces or alu bulks. I have ordered more stock braces and will first of all try to do my own cheap version of the bashcat braces. Only time will tell what needs to be upgraded.

And... The MMM got it outwearscover now and I changed my castle/neu for a 2350 that I had laying around Since I´m only running 4s for the time being:mdr:

Thats all for now I guess :na:

Small update:

The truck has now been used for a few hours and this is the results:

I bent the living crap out of the chassis so I bent it back and reinforced it with some scrap metal I had laying around:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/79/_u...1303127845.jpg

The Intejunk hingepin that came with the tierod eliminators also got bent...But I hade stockers ready I knew this was coming:lol::

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/73/_u...1303127849.jpg

And.... I cracked the bulkhead braces front and rear:party::

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/75/_u...1303127852.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/77/_u...1303127856.jpg

So I ordered some alu braces and I have thoughts of placing an order of a tcs chassis BUT, I want to know how much heavier the Tcs chassis is than the stock, I really doesn´t want that "pigfatpig" style to come back:neutral: If It weights alot more I will just make a nicer support for the stock chassis.

I also ordered some Gt2 tires to use in the front, I really dislike those truggy tires in the front, they look silly and they don´t balloon enough for my likening in the air!

I wondered where you went Manne ;) Looks like you`ve done youre homework!

Tell me, do you like driving the Flux?
I hated it so much i sold mine again after just 3-4 weeks. So now i`m building a new RC8T CE truggy instead..

Hello! I'm always glad to get your response Ola :yipi:

I'm still around, but right now I am sitting in the sandpits pushing the truck every single hour that I'm not working:mdr: , I broke a rpm knuckle on the Revo and then I gave up the hope I guess... But I will com back to the Revo later on:yes:

I hated the handling first, and then after I tuned it I started to love it! It's now very light and agile, I really want to weight it, It feels so much lighter than my friends flux ( he is using a eight shock setup tho..) so I really like it!

What didnt you like with your flux? Post some pics of your new ride! :intello:

:)

I just felt the Flux was VERY top heavy.. It wheelied for nothing, tipped over to easy, and rolled forever if it got started lol

I`ll post some RC8T pics right away, as i am alittle proud of it LOL! If it runs as good as it looks, it will be ALOT of fun :) Check for new thread here on RCM..

It's a Monster Truck, of course it is. ;) But yeah, I like my RC8T... although am running it now with Baja 5B tires!! :oops: But they are definetly different animals.

I don't have the standard Flux TVPs only the nitro TVPs, but I do have the TCS Flux TVPs. Unfortunately I don't have exact weights, but I would say they are about double (2.5mm vs 5mm) the weight; but what you make up in weight you get back in more strength. Again, its a Monster Truck not a truggy!

Nonetheless, I like your build. Is the Revo tranny really that much better than the HPI? From what I've seen and remember from running a T-Maxx 3.3 its really not. But I'm curious. One of the PITA parts of the Savage Flux is changing pinions (you have to pull the entire side of... wtf?!) [no Jahay, I'm not going to use a center diff!] and by using the Revo tranny looks like its much easier to get to.

I've switched to using FLM's draglink and body braces on all my Savages. The later definetly help reduce flex and the former works better when using high-torque servos.

You should probably want to ditch the battery door tabs and use velcro straps instead; maybe even flip the battery boxes around so the doors open up. I've found for me that by cutting off the battery door tabs, getting rid of the 'hump' at the rear of the battery door, I was able to use all my batteries without going to reversing my battery boxes (which caused issues with bodies too boot).

I'm also running GCMs (get them through tcscrawlers) battery box attachments. Much more solid than the plastic versions.

Thzero: The trans he swapped in is the newer E-revo/3905 brushless trans, which quite frankly is the most bulletproof thing about traxxas monster trucks. No upgrades needed for it to survive, except maybe the slipper. The nitro transmissions wouldn't be worth swapping in unless you like cleaning plastic shaving from the gears out of the trans case.

What hexes are you using? That is really my number one complaint with the flux! I have new bumper braces on the way for mine and I intend to put some beefier screws in as well. Other complaint is the lack of hex head screws.

Thzero: As for changing the pinion, I don't know how you do it that you have to remove the entire side but all I do is remove the 4 screws for the motor and I can easily change the pinion. Yes it takes a little longer than a E-Maxx but this truck is much stronget than the E-Monster trucks from Traxxas.

I know it`s a MT, and thats probably what i dont like ;)

The E-revo is more like a muggy than a MT i guess, but i cant think of much the Flux can do that the E-revo can`t do, so i kept the one of them that i actually enjoyed driving :)

It`s all down to preferences i guess..

Manne is`nt afraid of his tool box, so i know this will be one c0ol Flux when it`s "done" :D

Ola:

I agree, It can be top heavy, but mine isn´t, the half offset wheels and the truggy tires really helps to prevent side rolls and wheelies:smile: I also think that the reduced weight makes a difference.

My friends truck is a totally different animal, he is using stock tires with stock rims, his suspension is HARD, thick oil and heavy springs, you can´t imagine that it´s the same platform when you see the two truck togheter:lol:, we will be working on his suspension setup asap.

Thzero:

Overdriven is right:yes: It´s not the nitro gearbox, it´s the gearbox for the brushless trucks, and I would say that it is the most durable one out there. I have used the same gears in the gearbox for two years, and that is with the slipper locked with screws:whistle:, the gearbox is the only thing that I didn´t break on the revo, It´s very rare to see these gearboxes breakdown.

Yes! changing pinion takes about 30seconds:intello:. Open the setscrew-take of the pinion-add locktight-install the new pinion:party:

I have thought over this whole battery box situation, I have pushed It bretty hard and yes they pop open so I will get some velcro right there:oops:, I have also managed to "break loose" small pieces from the lower mounts to the boxes so I will get the Gcm kit :).

I don´t think I want to flipp them around, I have no problems like it is right now and I´m afraid that I will break the tabs on the batterybox if I flip them around since you have to remove the little "triangle" support on the upper tabs on the box itself but thanks for the tip anyway, I´m glad that you like the build.

E-revonut:

Eeehh.. I don´t want to say it because it´s GPM hubs.....:whip: but they have been working really good so far! And I am not gentle with it:whistle:

I´ll post some pics from the last bash, sadly we only took pictures when I jumped the smaller jump in the pit:oops:

Nothing to major, we will be taping hopefully this week If I can keep the truck in one piece:angel:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/72/_u...1302992645.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/77/_u...1302992651.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/71/_u...1302992655.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/76/_u...1302992662.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/77/_u...1302992666.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/76/_u...1302992676.jpg

Interesting... I'll have to keep this in mind since I have 3508 gearbox in my box of parts.

Nice Savage! Love the improvising to get this to work!

Best bit is definitely that Revo Box! never really knew much about it as people alwauys complained about the revo have a weak drive train? hence, no one had attempted to do this???? But if it offers gear reduction and can handle 6s power then great... but lets see how it does cope with the heavier savage over a little time. Please keep us posted!

Nice Pics... Nice Jumps! And i can now see why you need to upgrade that stock chassis. Dont worry about doubling the weight of the tvps as you get so much more in strength and reliability! Your added strength braces wont help much...

Nice work bud! And please get vids up! I want to see what sort of landing you had when breaking the plastic chassis braces haha!!!

Thanks Jahay:yipi:

Yes, the whole Revo drivetrain is totaly junk except the gearbox, I would like to call it bulletproof, the only time you see them go bad is if a bearing blows.

Actually, I think my revo was heavier:lol: have you seen the build? I will get the 5mm Tvp´s, now when the gearbox mounts are done and fits good, the braces works good but it feels so... I don´t know, sloppy to have the stock chassis instead of having something good and strong:lol:

I will post vids as soon As I get my new gearing and tires:intello: Now you keep us updated on your build man!:yes:

Super small update:

I have a troublesome heat source in my truck.....:lol:.

I´m using 4s 25C 7400mah rhino lipos.

First I was geared very low, 36.22 mph (58.18 km/h)@3.7V per cell, and with that gearing the temps were fine but the truck was just silly slow.. So I regeared from 65/21 0.8mod To 47/17 Mod1.

From that I´m getting 40.55 mph (65.13 km/h)@3.7V per cell That is totally okay with me but the temps are trough the roof.... I don´t know If I cooked the 2350... It cogged like crazy in the end of the run, only from a complete standing tho so I don´t know what was wrong... I could run it in super slow "crawling" speed but it was as I said very coggy from a complete stand still...

I will try with my Neu/castle 2200Kv and see if the motor is dead, add a CC blower or just a computer fan and then we will then see If I need a 1520.....:party:

I've been running mine with the 2200kv and its been pretty good on 2S 30C 5000mah batteries. Geared 47/20 with bulletproof diffs, flux tranny, and ProLine 3.8" Trenchers.

it sounds to me like you cooked the motor unfortunately. i think either that 1515 1y 2200kv motor should work fine or maybe a 1518.

love the build! i am currently scavenging ebay right now to get some parts that i need thanks to a screw-up on my part. i tried to add some jb weld to the 14mm hexes in some of my older tires' hexes and mounted them with the non-dry jb weld in an attempt to get a tighter fit between the hex and the wheel. it worked for a little while until i broke a knuckle and realized that i had effectively jb welded the hex to the axle. now, i already have the new knuckles and am looking for cheap axles. i am also looking for new dogbones because those are worn out and need to be replaced anyway.

scarletboa:

Yeah I thought so too but it was fine:yipi: I have now sucessfully driven the truck four packs since the Heat incident. The motor is just too small, I´ll try the 2200kv but I doubt it will handle my driving any better in the sandpit..
I´ll figure it out.

Now I have another problem:lol: I keep bending the motor mount plate forward ( so the gearmesh gets to tight ) when I do my 17feet high nosedives:party: So I will try to moke up some kind of brace, I think I´ll need atleast a 5mm thick motorplate to not bend it... It feels easier to just make a brace:angel:

The motormount have flexed so much that my pinion rubbed my recieverbox:surprised: Thas is ALOT of flexing:na: I´ll post pics later on:whip:

Also, I think I´ll go with rpm a-arms for the front and stock for the rear, Since I´m only bending dogbones in the rear. Or maybe I´ll try rpm all around and see if the dogbone situation gets worse, It´s totally okay as it is right now, they only bends slightliy in the rear, nothing to be worried about.
I´m actually amazed that they aren´t bent more since the dogbones are almost bottoming out in the diffcups/outputs due to the bad machining of my Integy hubs.....And I have catched Major air and landed perfect for bending dogbones countless times.:party:

Soo far, GREAT truck, It has already taken twice the beating that my revo build ever managed to take.

Btw what spur are you running? .8 mod or 1.0 mod?

21/65=mod 0.8, 17/47=mod 1.0:party:

Got any part #s for the mod 1s?

I´m using a savage spur #76937, and just a mod 1.0 pinion/5mmshaft, can´t remember the brand but any would work goog with the plastic spur.

18/47 is the smallest gears you can use without grinding any material off the gearbox, I haven´t tried 18/47 with the 2200kv, that can i slightly thicker, so It might not fit/get good gearmesh.

I ordered some 49tooth spurs but I don´t think they will fit inside the chassis :), I have made a "slot" in my chassis to make the 65tooth 0.8mod to fit, so it doesn´t mather to me, just letting you know if you are makeing the swap.

Update!:

The raw power of brushless:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/21/_u...1303972441.jpg

The truck is running great! I have broken a few things now tho.. first up, a-arms, no biggie, five arms so far, all lower and one upper:lol: Installed rpm a few days ago and they are working great! No broken arms so far since the install!

I also broke a screw in the steering assembly:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/20/_u...1303972470.jpg

but I got it out with a plier:
http://images4.bilddagboken.se/21/_u...1303972473.jpg

And then I installed a finethreadded screw instead, The stock screws has too little meat on them... But I do like big threads.. The best would be something between Traxxas "finethreads" and hpi threads "Fatthreads":lol:

I installed the mod 1.0 gears and the slipper plate from a Savage on the Revo gearbox:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/22/_u...1303972444.jpg

I had to drill up the hole in the shaft from the revo gearbox from 2mm to 2.5mm in order to get the right "drivepin" in for the Savage slipperplate, and the slipper plate´s hole is to big for the shaft...But the spurgear will still be perfectly centered since the hole in the spur and the bushing ( or ballbearing ) has the correct inner diameter.:party::

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/25/_u...1303972452.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/28/_u...1303972455.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/18/_u...1303972464.jpg

I also tried what the lowest tooth count you can fit were.
Totaly 64 tooths, 17/47 Mod 1.0 was the absolutley smalles I managed to fit, and then I even had to remove a tiny bit of material from the gearbox! And this was with the 2350motor wich doesn´t have the finns as the 2200kv has, 64tooths wouldn´t be enough for the 2200kv to mesh properly.:

A tiny amount of material removed
http://images4.bilddagboken.se/15/_u...1303972458.jpg


I finnaly got my new aluminum bulkhead braces! But when I deassembled everything I found this:party::

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/15/_u...1303972487.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/16/_u...1303972490.jpg

I just bent it back, same thing in the front as well as in the rear:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/17/_u...1303972493.jpg


Maybe it had something to do with this:intello::

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/21/_u...1303972506.jpg

I have been thinking of getting alu bulks or bashcatbraces, but I decided to try this first:

I started with some trimming of the skids
http://images4.bilddagboken.se/19/_u...1303972499.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/20/_u...1303972502.jpg

And then I just mounted the new braces, time will tell if it´s enough to keep everything in one piece:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/18/_u...1303972496.jpg

I also got a CC blower:yipi:, but where is the air getting out??? just pushing cold air on the can but not letting the hot air out seems wierd to me..:neutral:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/26/_u...1303972515.jpg

Finally, some new wheels and tires:yipi::

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/24/_u...1303972479.jpg

And that´s all for now. Next up: new motorplate, I keep bending this one over and over again.....:whistle:

I forgott! the weight difference of the tires!

Current tires 216Grams, pro-line Mtr´s.

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/25/_u...1303972512.jpg

New tires 304Grams, Hpi Gt2.

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/23/_u...1303972509.jpg

I´m looking forward to see if the drivetrain likes my driving with these heavier tires.... It´s been great...So far..:whip:

The HPI tires have thin sidewalls. My stock Flux tires are pretty much shot, I have torn the sidewalls of two of them. and they flex ALOT, kind of like a drag tire, aka wrinkle walls. I beleive this is part of why a stock flux pulls wheelies on demand at anything under 1/2 throttle

Oh crap! That doesn´t sound too good....Time will tell if they are holding up...

I like the way they handles, I have driven a truck with Gt2´s, I like them for the air controll and because they are fat and sucks up those bad landings:angel:

About them being like a drag tire, look at this vid at 2.57! They showes it zoomed around 3.05! Crazy twisting!

[YOUTUBE]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovQQvJtE5VU[/YOUTUBE]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ovQQvJtE5VU

Update:

:lol: I broke my first 23mm rim ( notice the driveshaft that is slightly bent..):

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/28/_u...1304321534.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/18/_u...1304321540.jpg

I like the small hole from the hingepin...

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/19/_u...1304321543.jpg


The driveshaft:rofl: :

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/16/_u...1304321537.jpg

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/23/_u...1304321548.jpg

What can I say, the rpm a-arms are most impressive! Can´t belive they held up, Around 17feet drop from the highest point in the jump, doubble backflip, too much wind and It lost track a bit.. when I pulled the brakes to not overrotate it It just turned around:surprised:. Landed backwards in some weird angle at one wheel and it all ended up like this:lol:.

I will get some ceramic bearings for the wheelaxels, keep breaking them.. It´s so hard to get the outer rings of the bearing out from the knuckle when the bearings is blown, so I made a little slot in the knuckle to be able to bash it out:oops::

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/26/_u...1304321551.jpg

I also drilled a few holes in the CC blower to let the airflow really flooow:

http://images4.bilddagboken.se/16/_u...1304322512.jpg


And that, is all for now:party:

The CC blower is really meant for their finned can motors. The air actually escapes between the fins. On my CC blower I actually shave the plastic at the bottom of the blower down, making it thinner in between the zip ties. So the air can escape across the top of the fins, instead of just in between them on my CC motors. Damn, you bash hard. I think I'm getting soft, I haven't broken anything in awhile!

woah is all i can say! Nice damage there!!!!

Those RPM Arms are awesome, but they do flex a lot easier meaning bent shafts...

Haha now thats bashing :)

Overdriven:

Yeah, you are right, it works fine now tho after I drilled the holes:lol:. I will change to my finned can as soon as I get my new tires. Haha, I don´t try to break it, but I´m always pushing it as far as I feel I can control it, and sometimes, it gets out of control:oops:.

Jahay:

Thanks! Yeah, that´s why I was unsure if I should go with the rpms or the stockers in the rear, ( I never manage to make this happend in the front ), and I think I will keep them, It´s easier to change a driveshaft than have to change a broken a-arm, and....They doesn´t get bent half as easy as on the Revo............... This was a totally crazy landing, totally acceptable damage:party:

Nixpus: Yepp:whistle:

Update:

Well, we have some damage:lol:

Gearboxtabs:
http://cdn04.dayviews.com/51/_u2/_u3...1304578696.jpg

Both sides:
http://cdn04.dayviews.com/53/_u2/_u3...1304578699.jpg

......
http://cdn04.dayviews.com/54/_u2/_u3...1304578702.jpg

And what did I do to make this happend? Well, the chassis looks like... I don´t know what to say, I know that it is too soft now that´s for sure:lol: When the chassi flexed out of the world it just ripped the gearbox tabs sstraight off:party: So I finally ordered a Tcs 5mm chassis a few days ago, I hope It arrives tomorrow!

When the chassi got crazy bent, it made the front output on the gearbox hit my reciever box:surprised:

http://cdn04.dayviews.com/56/_u2/_u3...1304578708.jpg

But I fixed it with some glue :yipi:

It doesn´t look bent in the picture, but the track is way off between the front and the rear end.. About 1cm difference..:lol:

http://cdn04.dayviews.com/55/_u2/_u3...1304578706.jpg

My front skid is worn out:

http://cdn04.dayviews.com/58/_u2/_u3...1304578714.jpg

But I recieved some spares just in time!

http://cdn04.dayviews.com/57/_u2/_u3...1304578711.jpg

And that is all for now.

Happy bashing everyone!