the mother of cogging
 

hey

i was wondering whether anyone could tell me what in the world is up with my mmm; its like it is cogging really badly.

http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/...h_c350fd0c.jpg

http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/...h_1022dd0c.jpg


it coggs for around 5 seconds regardless of how much i push the throttle, then it suddenly has a burst of power.

the wierd thing is when the motor is out of the car and has no load under it coggs just as much as my other mmm.

i know it not any other part of my setup as i used exactly the same electronics with my other mmm and its perfectly fine

thanks for you help

Send it in for repair.

Cogging is REALLY bad on everything. I'm surprised it hasn't let the smoke out yet.

When it's cogging like that, I'm sure it's putting a HUGE load on your battery packs.

I wouldn't allow it to cog like that for any length of time.

If you've checked everything, something must be wrong with the ESC.

What firmware version are you running? Some people have had problems with 1.30. I think the latest "good" version is 1.24...

+1 try 1.24 software.

If it still cogs send it in for repair ASAP.
No point killing your lipo's with a dead ESC.

not sure what version software it is, will have to check tommorow

i didnt want it to come to this, me being in the uk means that getting a mmm replacement isnt easy, i sent a mmm out 2 months ago and still have heard nothing back

i really feel like giving up with castle

The last time one of my trucks did that it wasn't the esc it was the motor. If you have another motor try it with the esc before you send the esc in for repair.

thanks for the recommendation,

sadly i have done already and it still does it :no:

Oh that sucks. Try going back to 1.23 firmware. Its the most stable firmware out of them all.

Check your solder joints on the motor bullets. a loose one will cause this to happen

+1 -- and check the bullet connectors to make sure they aren't loose.

thanks for all your suggestions

today i went back to 1.24 and i did see a change; the cogging decreased to about half of what it was.

also i forgot to mention in the first post that the esc, motor wires and battery wires where all hot after around 20 seconds of testing

thanks for you help

Yeah, hot wires means LOTS of current. After you check your bullets/solder connections, run it again (more gently than your vids to keep the ESC from blowing) and check for hot spots on the wiring. If any specific spot is hotter than the rest that's your problem.

Also, how are you geared? If geared really high, you're gonna have problems on takeoff and maybe adding in a little more start power will get it going easier.

the problem can only be esc related as my other mmm works completely fine when swapped with it

Dont give up, they are normally one of the best r/c companies in terms of after sales support. If you havent already tried emailing ( including all the relevant details of your case, not just 'where's my esc?' ), you could try phoning or PM a castle rep here in order to chase up your case.

That MMM swap comes with a battery connector swap... check the connections (resolder them if unsure!)

I am in Australia. Sent my MMM to Castle in January. From the day I posted it off at the local post office it took 24 days for me to receive a replacment. 24 days is very good considering that at least 7 days of that would have been travel time. Can't complain about Castles service my self. I think do what Neil said and contact them. Who knows, maybe it's been lost in the mail.:diablo:

i have some good news and some bad

the good news is that castle just contacted me saying they can replace my mmm, the bad news is i have to pay $70 for it

the other bad news is that the mmm still doesnt work, i opened it up to see if the motor bullets on the board had come apart and this is what i saw

http://i1033.photobucket.com/albums/...DSC_0002-3.jpg

is the yellow and lack of solder normal?

thanks

The yellow is most likely just flux and yes, both that and the amount of solder is normal. Really, there is no need to have more solder than that; there are no gaps and the bullets look like they are firmly in place.

does anyone else have an idea what it could be?

Probably a chip on your board is bad.
Pay the 70 to send it back.

Right before I sold my Revo I had the exact same issue. It turned out to be the bullet connectors not getting enough contact. I stuck a small wrench in the end of the male bullets and stretched them out, worked like a charm after. Try it, it might work for you too.