1/8 buggy problem
 

hey, l was just using my 1/8 hyper 8, and the power on it just keeps cutting out. When l give it a full punch sometimes it goes slow as if the battery is low, but when l lift it off the ground its fine untill its back on the ground. Does anyone know what is wrong, lm not to sure if its the motor or esc, (its not the batteries because l tried it with three differnent ones)

it sounds to me like you have a bad solder joint somewhere.

what esc are you using? if you are using a MMM or MMP, try loading an older software version on it.

Xerun 150A

yes it does sound like a bad solder joint or battery connector or the esc is hitting low voltage cuttoff
is it a new install? new esc ?
is it set for the packs you are using?
check settings on the program card
if you dont have a program card for your xerun then you need one

it says 5.1v, on the speedometer, its sorta a new esc, the rest are all yes's

heres some pics of the join to the ESC, and the connection to the second plug og the ESC (in series)

seconf plug to ESC
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=894

plug from ESC thats goes into the battery
http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=893


http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=900

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=899

um thats terrible looking soldering dude
what size and configuration are you trying to run it on ?
and it looks like you have a series harness with a dodgy jumper on one side
and some extra wires on the other side ??(bec?)

could you take a pic of the whole layout ? looks really suspect from what we can see

ye it is a BEC, lm running 11.1v 3s lipo,

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/pict...&pictureid=871

the solder didn't look as bad before, cause l went on the track today lol

Have you even read the instruction manual that came with the XERUN 150A????

How have you set your LVC? Is it set to auto cell detect? What I mean did you set the LVC for 3S battery or is it in auto detect mode?

And what the hell did you solder that with???? Cigarette lighter? That is some of the worst soldering I have ever seen. No joke there. Get that fixed up asap. If you can't do better take it to a hobby shop and pay to get it done. That is just asking for a disaster the way it is now.

lol ye its on 3s

What you are describing (your problem) seems to be something I saw very recently with that same ESC. With these ESCs you can't use Auto cell detect for LVC with 3S or 5S. If the ESC sees an input voltage of higher than 8.4V it will automatically asume that a 4S battery is hooked up. A fresh, off the charger 3S pack is around 12.6 volts which is around the cut off voltage for a 4S pack. In the case I saw it caused the ESC to kick in the LVC mode instantly. The car would only crawl very slowly for a while and then stop altogether.

What I had to do is with the programing card change from auto cell detect to 3S lipo and then set the LVC for 3.2V/cell. I had a same issue with my buggy when I tried to run 5S with the XERUN 150A ESC.


Also what motor are you running? Any chance you overheated it? That could cause demagnetization of the magnets and for the motor to loose pretty much all the power. Also check and reset your end points. Your ESC might not be seeing full throttle.

the car was on 3s, and yes when l changed it to auto cell correct it went to 4s. wat do u mean "set the LVC for 3.2V/cell", wer about is that on the the card. heres my motor, what should l use to make the battery in series (ie what wire, lve got a 12 guage high current cable, would that be any good? http://teamtwisterhobbies.com/produc...7c762ec8f0fdbc

believe it or not, when i first started soldering, my solder joints were worse than those ones. was using a 40w corroded soldering iron with cheap lead-free solder. i ended up getting a radioshack 230/150w soldering gun and some good old fashioned 60/40 lead solder and some flux paste. now, my solder joints look like they were done from the factory. the quality of your soldering mainly depends on 2 things: materials that you use and amount of practice that you have.

i would definitely revise those solder joints before trying to rule anything else out on your setup.

I've pooped out better solder joints.

It's either that horrible mess you call wiring or a demagnetized motor. Is there a chance you got your motor really hot?

Keep soldering and get better. We all start somewhere.

[QUOTE=_paralyzed_;408601]I've pooped out better solder joints.

It's either that horrible mess you call wiring or a demagnetized motor. Is there a chance you got your motor really hot?

Keep soldering and get better. We all start somewhere.

lol, ye hopefully the motor overheated, one time, l went to give it throttle and it would'ntwork at all, l had to turn it off then back on?

Did these problems exist before the xerun esc?

Did these problems start immediately after the install of the new esc?

If the problems started with the install of the new esc, it is most probably a wiring problem.

A demagnetized motor is permanently damaged and cannot be fixed, this happens by getting them too hot.

Try your old esc, or have another go at soldering.

na, it just happened yesterday for the first time, l'll solder the other part and hopefully all back to normal, still thinking about getting the 2650kv castle with 22.2v ;)

Don't do that. You will just kill another motor. If you want to run 6S stick to the CC 2200kv motor and be done with it. With right gearing and decent lipos (you already have a good ESC) you should be pushing 75mph+ easily and have a reliable, fast buggy. 2650kv motor will run hotter and on 6S it will be around it's maximum safe RMP. Not a good thing if you want your motor to last a while.

someone told me that l should run the 2650kV because of the weight of my buggy, it only weighs 7.71lbs 3.5kg with 11.1v and with 22.2v it weighed at 9.1lbs 4.12kg, it wouldn't run as hot as it would with a heavier buggy.

I would still go with the 2200 motor but it's your choice. I have used the 2650 motor in my RC8Be and it ran a lot hotter than the 2200. I tried it on 5S and it got very hot very quickly. I had to drop the gearing a lot to the point where the buggy started to feel slow again just to keep the temps of the motor down. With the 2200 motor I can gear it for higher speeds than the 2650, both on 5S, and it stays cooler. If you just want to go for speed runs then maybe the 2650 would be OK but thats not a setup that you can blast up and down the street all day long.

^^x2

the 2650 on 6s is fine for speed runs WITH COOL DOWN TIME BETWEEN RUNS.

It isn't intended for regular use over 4s.

The 2200 has more torque, and therefore can pull higher gears.