Nothing for sale
 

I just wanted to see a new thread that wasn't selling something. I haven't posted lately, but am always lurking.

I jizzed in my pants when I saw the losi 5t. Anyone wanna buy my e5b as a roller so I can throw my 2028 in a losi 5t?

And hpi just announced a 1/5 4wd short course, that looks like it will be electric?

Fifth scale is growing, and I'm happy to be on the bandwagon.

Peace brothers:intello:

I skipped 5th scale and went big with my bicycle with a 56 pole Magic Pie motor and 26s2p A123.

I bought a RCM CRT.5 setup and just purchased the 1506 6800kv motor from Mike, so you'll see me posting up some stuff soon. I know, nothing gangster like some of you.

I have an Electricmoto Blade(search 04 Blade on you tube and you can see a couple vids of the model bike I have) that I have been performing a lipo swap for(this is a 1:1 electric dirt bike that initially came with 48 volts of lead acid power).

I have built 4 individual 18.5 volt, 30AH battery modules that I hope to get installed on the bike in the next week or so - still working on an installation solution. The batteries will be wired in series for a 74 volt, 30AH setup. I am pretty excited to get it finished, too. It last ran this spring on 72volt lead batts(16AH, so about 8-9AH usable power at the required discharge rate), which was quite fun, but rather top heavy. The Lead batts dropped voltage down to 60 volts almost immediately during takeoff and slowly faded during a run. The new battery system is almost 50 pounds lighter and should yield about 4 times the usable capacity(not to mention about 12x the continuous discharge capacity). The lipos shouldn't drop voltage under load, either(each 5000mah, 25/50c pack will only see 50 amps).

The stock bike weighed about 165 pounds, but swelled to a little over 200 pounds with the extra 2 lead batteries(still light by dirt bike standards, but the weight was a bit high). The Lipo arrangement will get the weight back down to around 150 pounds with a much lower Cg. The speed controller and motor can output around 30HP in theory, though I pulled over 40HP peak with the Lead batterries(for a split second). This thing should handily spank my 300cc dirt bike when it is done. It makes almost no noise and is nice for stealthily blazing trails around my neighborhood. I am getting pretty excited to ride this thing again!

So Mike, when are you planning to stock some e-bike kits/components?

I really hadn't considered stocking E-Bike stuff, though I certainly could make some components, etc. for the E-vehicle market.
I have considered making an electric-specific frame for a dirt bike/super moto for local travel and playtime. It is a considerable amount of work and time in the design phase. I may convert a full size dirt bike 1st(have been looking for a blown up kx125 in good shape for the project).
I am kind of a motorcycle junky - I ride my dirt bike pretty much every weekend as weather permits, but super moto is my latest "fix". A light weight, electric super moto would be killer(possibly using bicycle components to keep it light). I am actually working on a super moto setup for the blade, too (waiting for the rear hub so I can build new street oriented wheels).
I haven't really seen any E-Bicycle kits that float my boat, to be honest. I will make my own some day(though not sure I even want pedals to be honest).

That is a sweet bike Mike. Post pics!

Like Brian asked, any thoughts on some RCM outrunner powered Ebike conversions. You still will be selling RC equipment that way and your battery sales might go up as well.

Mike, did you see these batteries?? http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=30060

yes, I have seen the headways - no comparison to Lipos for energy density, though. The same capacity and voltage in headway cells would be 24lbs heavier, have less than half the discharge capability(though still plenty, though voltage will almost certainly drop more), and would require more space.
The Headways are nice in their own right, but I already had most of the packs needed to make my setup, and even if I only get 100 cycles, this would be a couple year's worth of runtime for a dirt bike(which is one of 2 dirtbikes and one of 4 motorcycles I use regularly). Even if I could run it twice every week for 1/2 the year, 100 cycles would yield 2 years of runtime. I should get way more than 100 cycles, and between RC, my other motorcycles, weather, and making a living, I doubt the bike will see 50 cycles per year - I should get a few years use easily.

battery modules
 

The battery modules I built have a similar form factor to the lead batteries - yet each module has 1.5x the voltage and almost 4x the usable capacity while weighing 3.5 pounds less. 4 modules also will replace 6 lead batts, yet the energy gain is even more significant than the weight loss(and both are very significant).

The modules allow removal of any individual pack without disturbing any other pack. I can also balance charge each module, as the balance leads are exposed and can be connected in parallel with a 6-to-1 balance lead. I balance charged each pack individually before assembly and will balance charge each module every 5-10 cycle once on the bike.

:yes: I like my 4S4P Headway setup. SLA was only lasting my trolling setup about 2 years, then had to replace them.

The headway setup is light enough to carry around and use for AC inverter duty, plus I'm looking forward to 10+ years of use.

They say 80% capacity retention at 2000 cycles. I'll report back in 10 years LOL

Very nice battery setup Mike! Those are Hyperions, aren't they?

You should get more than 100 cycles with Hyperion Quality.

I really like the boxes.

I wish someone would come up with a massive multiple cell holder for 18650's. It would be nice to re-create the Tesla Roadster setup.

The world record holder for longest distance traveled on a single charge was an EV project created by a Tech Class in Japan.

The small car traveled over 800 miles on a single charge. :yes:

Yes, the packs are Hyperion 25/50c 5s 5000mah - 24 of them altogether. I should easily get a few hundred cycles out of them as they will only max out at 10c discharge and won't be over-charged or over-discharged. I don't plan on beating this bike into the ground, either(my other dirtbike takes a thrashing, though!).
The boxes took a few days to engineer and a couple days to build - making them again would be much easier of course. I had to re-engineer a few things as I progressed through. I like the system, though and will modify sizes and utilize the same strategy more in the future now that I have a good grasp of the processes.
It can't be that hard to make a multi-cell holder for the Headways, can it? Seems like building something that could easily "stack" would be best for huge packs or small packs.

You were talking about balancing each pack of the 30ah module. Wouldn't it be easiest to parallel the balancing tabs?

Then each of the 6 parallel packs would equalize to each other at all times plus you could balance all 6 as a unit.

This could serve to increase the life of the module. :yes:

I thought he said he uses a 6 to 1 balance lead?? That means they will eqalize during charging (as a module) and still be easy to assemble/dissassemble.

Very nice project Mr Monster:yes:

That's some nice work their Mike..............as usual.

I have been following the e-bike thing for a while. I would love to have something of an enduro type that could get speeds up to around 60 mph. I could use it most days to get around. The thing holding me bike right now is cost and form factor. Their are a lot of nice e-bikes starting to show up in the market place.

If you could build an electric specific frame that utilized common dirt bike parts for the rest I would bet it would be a hit.

The Stealth bike is capable of 50mph, but at 10G is a bit much. The dirt bike parts would be great on a frame for the 8000W plus systems.

As the panda pointed out, the modules are paralleled through the balance leads with a 6 to 1 adapter for balance charging as a complete unit/module. I could have permanently connected the balance leads, but disassembly would then be more difficult. Also, if a cell within one pack happens to go south, it would try to equalize with the other cells in the other packs through the small balance wire, which might be problematic! The way the modules are built, everything is...well...modular - and easy to remove/replace in the event of a problem(which hopefully never happens).

The Stealth bikes look cool, but I am not a fan of the hub motor concept(unsprung, rotating mass that also has a gyroscopic effect) - and they are quite expensive as well. It is also a lot closer to a bicycle than a motorbike IMO - they are a very heavy bicycle. A frame that accepts readily available parts is more my speed for sure - at least 65mph top speed and a 20-30 mile or so range would make for a nice commuter and/or play toy, too. I have considered making a 2 speed tranny as well - one speed for trails, etc., and a taller gear for the street commute. The range will only get better as battery technology moves forward, too. It only takes time and money to make it happen(and I have neither in abundance). :)

The stealth bike is interesting, but way out of my range.

A 30 mile range for most days would be perfect for many things I do. I would definitely want something a little more substantial than a bicycle but less so than a hard core street bike. That's why I said an enduro type. I also want something comfortable to ride and anything like a crotch rocket would be out for me as well.

I'm still trying to find a decent ebike kit just for tooling around - not really for serious transportation. Although, the ~10 mile trip to work via bike would be nice. The best deal I've found thus far are the kits found here: http://www.ampedbikes.com/kits.html

$840 for 750 motor (premounted to reinforced rim/spokes), ESC, 36v 12Ah Li battery, etc is pretty good IMO. 750w should be adequate for decent speed with minimal pedaling, although I was really looking for something in the 1500w range. But finding setups that spec true wattage can be tough - lots seem to be of the "flame sticker" variety as far as specs go.

There is another site, http://www.electricrider.com/, that has higher power stuff. The "7240" kit includes a 2880w motor (truly??) running on 72v, 40A ESC, etc for over $1k (minus battery). But the cost is rather high and the only power options they sell are SLA (yuk). Getting equivalent voltage/Ah Lithiums would cost me at least an extra $500, not to mention a charger that will do 18-19s...

Brian, the motor that my bike is running pulls 1500w continuous without overheating in the Texas heat @40-44mph. It will pull 2000+W going up steep inclines and this is with a 12Fet controller.

Snell, so what exactly are you running? I would just like to get a kit that works, ~1500w, is reliable, and not stupidly expensive. That means motor, ESC, battery, throttle, and all the extra necessary bits and pieces required (like torque arm, wiring, etc).

I know I could assemble all the parts I need from various places, like the hub motor from one place, R/C aircraft HV ESC, throttle from someplace else, yadda yadda. But that's a PITA, not to mention the overall cost is about the same from what research I've done.

Too bad Castle hasn't come up with kits. I would feel much better about getting something that I know will work from a US company who stands behind their product.

I'm running a Goldenmotor Magic Pie and got it from goldenmotor.ca. I got it the motor for the torque and slender size. I'm running it sensorless as I can't deal with broken sensor wires, forcing me to pedal in the heat. Well it's not so hot anymore.

The controller is custom from Edward Lyen in San Francisco. It's worth the time and money(cheap for what you get) to get the controller from him over the off the shelf stuff. He has different controllers both in sensored and sensorless configs. From little 6 fets ESC's, to motorcycle level controllers. He can wire the controller up for every accessory for the availabe ebike hardware. You can tweak the controller settings with the Cycle Analyst and through your PC. You can add copper braid wires on the fet traces for higher amperage if needed.

Motor selection is up to you. The Crystalyte motors at electric rider are good stuff and can take some serious abuse if you like going overboard. Some have even soldered up thicker motor wires on those motors. I just use 12awg wires and Castle 6.5mm bullet connectors for mine now. I noticed a small increase in off the line torque. An Ebay cheapy 1000W motor will do as well. The controller is key.

It's funny, we have had the hottest August in Texas history, and when the temps "cool" down into the mid 90's it feels great!!!

HAHAHHAH, so true.

Would love to see an RCM ebike kit that made the hub motor redundant

Something like the Brammo would be cool too.

And as dry as it's been I was actually wishing for a hurricane, or even a nice tropical storm. :yes: :lol:

yep im very interested in the e-bike projects too
the stealth bike looks awesome but i would rather build one
actually wondering how the red leopard 5692 size motors would go on a bike
would be great to have one motor each wheel for crazy offroad stuff

i work as a mountainbike technician so have access and info on that side of things and motors escs and batterys just keep getting better and better
it looks like the way forward
would love to have a lightweightish downhill bike that could motor back to the top of the hill under its own power

Hi Mike,
Are these modules something you made just for yourself or is it going to become one of your fine products for us to purchase? This is the cleanest way to go lipo on an E-vehicle I've seen yet.

Thanks
Ray

I made them for myself, but could certainly reproduce them in various sizes now that I have the process somewhat figured out - there is a bit of labor to actually assemble the packs inside the modules, but the module parts themselves aren't so bad.

I think with the correct marketing & options, those modules would certainly sell well to guys getting into the e-bike world.

The annoying thing for me is that in the UK, we are limited to 200watt motors ( 250 for tandem/tricycles ) & 15mph on the road; offroad/on private land there are no limits. Given I weigh between ~170-220lb ( I'm getting down slowly but surely ), a 200watt motor and steep-ish hills is kind of a deal breaker; ofcourse, I also have no morals and the local police are near non-existent, so.... :whistle:

I am guessing if you would be caught with a "over 200" motor you would be charged some sort of "over-powered bicycle" tax, then required to go to court as well. That is some serious BS, glad I am not stuck over in the UK... But you guys do have free healthcare so that makes all of that communist stuff ok.:party:

200 watts? That is like 1/4 of a horsepower. My garage door opener is more powerful than that. I bet an xl5 rustler can push 200 watts. Hell, my cordless drill pushes way more than that. Do they have a power limit on cordless tools over there too? This is what happens when you let the gov't into everything, alot of bs laws that do no good to anyone. I bet the person who passed that law has no idea what a watt is let alone what 200 of them are capable of. Even my home vacuum cleaner is rated at 1800 watts (right before it melts I am sure).

200W is crap. How about putting a bogus 200W sticker on your motor.

^Exactomundo.

Unless I did something like speed through the center of town at ~40mph, I doubt they'd have any reason to pull me over, but a nice little engraved or printed sticker from a lesser motor over the original one would fool the police around here if they questioned the power output.

Reasoning being that if I get the job I applied for, it's a good ~20 minute walk, and mainly uphill on the way home, so an ebike powerful enough to propel me up the hill at 10-15mph with pedaling would be just fine, wouldn't need it for long distance travel as such either so I'd only have to recharge once a week or so, if that. Downhill I doubt I'd even bother with the motor as it levels out more of less half way to the place I need to go.

Regards power limits, if I wanted something better & to use it onroad, my understanding is that I'd have to pass at least my CBT ( compulsary Basic Training, lets you ride upto a 125cc scooter or bike for 2 years before you have to pass your full bike test ), and also get the bike insured like a regular motorbike ( could be rather difficult to say the least ), and possibly even get it tested by the SVLA ( Single Vehicle Licensing Agency, they test and evaluate one-off car/bikes/trikes etc to make sure they meet safety standards before they are approved for use onroad ).

I understand the reasoning ( hardly fair to let someone drive a bike that fast & powerful on the road with no restrictions vs what petrol powered bikers have to go through to gain a license ), but 200watts is only any good for about ~15-20mph tops on a level road as it is with a light-weight setup, add a fat git like me and steep hills and it just becomes pointless...

Going lipo on an E-bike/scooter/motorcycle requires some sort of labor. That's not a problem. How about safety? Is the material used for the modules fire retardant? In case of a flame out of one of the packs. I'm asking because where the modules would be in my scooter, it's pretty much buried underneath the seat and side panels. Or maybe have a bit of room inside the modules to wrap the lipos in some kind of fire retardant material.

I may be from across the pond but I'm a bit of a moped/scooter and small bike aficionado, and Europe has some way cooler small bikes than the US. It used to be the UK basically had no special liscense for mopeds/scooters that are under a certain power level and don't exceed about 30mph, but you still needed registration and insurance. Any faster or more powerful than that and you need your Learners (CBT) which is limited to 125cc. But like you said you can ride (with the big red "L" below the plate) before getting your full liscense.

You can also get into trouble hopping up any of the bikes that are supposed to be "limited" and I've heard that some metro areas that have portable dynos to measure output and will hand out tickets for excessive output. I'd have to assume a basic e-bicycle would fall into some sort of "assisted power" category of bicycle not requiring registration and insurance due to low speeds. A moped/scooter that can't go over 30mph would need registration and insurance but no special liscense. Of course anything not manufactured and already certified to meet the requirements of a certain registration class must be inspected by the govt. It's basically the same here. We don't get the CBT with the 125cc restriction though. Here you get your learners but can only ride with someone who has a full liscense (they can be on a separate bike) until you pass the test for a full liscense.

I don't think the material is necessarily fire retardant, but it isn't flammable, either. The actual packs are almost sealed within the module, too - not much air = not much fire. The packs could be wrapped in flame retardent material by the end user easily enough - that is up to the end user though. The pictures don't show it, but the 1/16" thick sidewalls completely wrap the packs and are sunk into the sidewalls on the upper and lower pieces(there is a recessed shelf on the upper and lower pieces for the walls to sit on). These modules were made to these specific packs, so the packs are snug and the top and sidewalls are also snug(with 1/16 foam pad on top of packs) so nothing moves. About 5 minutes with rtv silicone or shoe goo and the packs could be completely sealed from the elements. With proper care and charging/discharging, the chance of a fire is quite slim. They will mount semi-permanent on my bike as well(off road machine, so they need to mounted securely) and I really don't want to burn my bike(or my manhood) any more than anyone else. I am not terribly worried, though.

Thanks Mike. All of what you said makes perfect sense and I shouldn't worry so much. I have been wanting to do some work on the scooter this winter when it's in storage and getting rid of the SLAs would be the first thing I'd want to do. I looked at many options for new batteries and there is good stuff out there, many plug and play options but sometimes a bit expensive. Nothing can compare to Lithium Polymer though for power and weight saving. These modules you created are really tempting me to go lipo on my scooter. I'll be in touch if I go ahead with the conversion this winter. Thanks Mike.

It would be a shame to lose the boys to a Lipo Fire! :lol::rofl: