New grade 5 titanium plates for GorillaMaxx G2R
 

Thought I'd show off some custom grade 5 titanium plates I had made for my GorillaMaxx G2R. The GorillaMaxx originally had carbon fiber plates but they were too thin and broke eventually. I decided to build new plates in grade 5 titanium.

I drew the plates in Google Sketchup, converted them to .dxf and had them cut using wire erosion and then a final sand blowing.

I think it turned out GREAT and will definitely make more custom titanium parts in the future.

Here are some pics. Enjoy:

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-R...0/P1050054.JPG

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-P...0/P1050055.JPG

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-5...0/P1050056.JPG

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-f...0/P1050062.jpg


https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-b...0/P1050084.jpg

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I...0/P1050086.jpg

Looks great!

Thank you. It was fun to do and I want to do it again. :)

I'm actually in the middle of trading the G2R for a G4. I just seem to like the Maxx' better.

I prefer the Maxx myself, actually. :)

Very nice indeed. Amazing after all the yrs how popular the Maxx trucks still are

How much did it cost to make the plates, I mean material cost & then the machining work?

Ti will certainly reduce the amount of flex in the servo mounts up front :yes:

Looks good!
Kind of like the offset color of the Titanium.

They wouln't be nearly as popular if people didn't take it upon themselves to create the massive aftermarket that FIXED all of the problems with the original maxxes. An early 2.5 Tmaxx was a HORRIBLE truck.

The aftermarket has truly saved that vehicle. Thankfully now Traxxas has fixed the major problems and out of the box the trucks are respectable.

But with the current aftermarket the Maxx series of trucks have now it really doesn't matter. Traxxas could stop making the Maxx now and 3 or 4 years from now you could still build an entirely new Maxx completely out of aftermarket parts.

I got lucky and found a .090" grade 5 titanium plate on ebay in the US and had it sent to Europe. That was around $75. Machining work was done by a friend so it didn't really cost anything (this time - I'm sure next time he'll send me a huuuuuge bill :) ).

My hope was that Ti makes the G2R plates bulletproof and that they stiffen up the truck. From what I see and feel they do both pretty well.

Thank you. I like the offset color too, although I think I'll experiment a little with coloring the titanium in the future using 9V batteries and Coca Cola.

Let me know if you make any Ti pieces for your G4.
I'd love to get a set of Gorillamaxx Ti skids.

You are not the first to ask. Maybe I should ask my friend for a price of running a batch of some parts.

Sounds like a great idea. Count me in on a set of Gorillamaxx ti skids.

You mean something like this for titanium skids...:

http://www.beatyourtruck.com/images/GMAXX/gmaxx5.jpg

...or more like the FLM with a bumper both front and rear?:

http://www.fastlanemachine.net/prodi...misc%20018.JPG

What finish would be attractive?

Yep the ones on top.

So, what would be the most you'd pay for front- and rear skid in 3mm grade 5 titanium? Trying to make a deal with an american company. We will probably need to order 25 sets or more for anyone to be interested in making them, so if anyone's interested in buying a set let me know!

you did a very good job gumleguf!!!
i've worked on titanium skid plate seems hardcore racing.
But i've never found titanium grade 5 in correctly thickness and with a good price.

Looks amazing! Must be seriously strong lol

A while ago I found this full length titanium skid on eBay for the Revo for £25 :D

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/327064/Revo/...6092010340.jpg

Think it's made by Hardcore Racing, pretty rare these days but a nice thing to have if you can find one. The machining is great. Not sure of the grade of titanium.

It's damn strong though, white sparks when bottoming out on the road. I fitted it to an E-Revo, but it was made for the 2.5 so I had to cut out the middle section.

I have the skid as well. Brand new never used. Just wondering how did you cut and fit them on e-revo. I am planning to sell the skid as Im not using it. But no body really use the revo 2.5 nowadays. But if I can tell people that this can still be used for e-revo, then that would be great. Would appreciate if you could put some pics:)

I used an angle grinder to make the first cut. Didn't do a very neat job though, so in the end I used a Dremel to tidy it up and make the second cut.

First I just cut it once and left the middle section in.

http://dl.dropbox.com/u/327064/Revo/...20-%20Copy.jpg


I then decided to remove the middle section as it's not really needed by cutting on the red line.

Haven't got any newer pictures and my camera is broken. Sorry.

Thanks for the pics revorocks! Really appreciate it. So it fits perfectly without any mod right? The parts after the redline does not have to be removed right?

The centre section on the left of the red line was removed, as I had no means of attaching it.

It fitted with no mods, you just put it over the top of the plastic skids and it uses little aluminium spacers between the plastic skid and the titanium skids.
You don't have to use these but it came with them and neatened it up a bit.

Thanks alot bud!! really appreciate our help. Now Im gonna cut the skids. :party:

Since I know everyone love's pic's here are more recent pic's of the G2R with the Grade 5 titanium plates, Right now I have them off for polishing. Unfortunatly the Flextek arms wont be staying though, I have sold them along with my 1717 powered E-Revo.
http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...C/DSCN0068.jpg
http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...C/DSCN0069.jpg

??? Why sell those beautiful FlexTek arms?

Because mine really aren't that beautiful. They are pitted like crazy for some reason, And they are saying in the family. My cousin is buying them and my 1717 powered E-Revo and promised not to sell the arms.

Pardon my ignorance...what does "pitted" mean in this context?

Just like pitting on steel and other metals. It has fine pit's in the metal, The arms aren't smooth. You can see it in this close up pic of the arms.

http://i566.photobucket.com/albums/s...C/DSCN0077.jpg

Thats normal for all the flextek arm. I have the Savage arm and Ive seen LST2 arm, they all are pitted. They are made from titanium powder which is cast into a mold. Yes they are cast, not machined.

Normal or not its not right for my style, I like all my stuff to be smooth and polishable and there is no way I am sanding flexteks down to polish them. The flextek's are polished but the pits really take away from the look's.

Hey lilpanther. :)

With the FlexTek arms it must be close to being the perfect Revo. I would have loved to drive it like on the picture.

Hey gumleguf.

I have driven my Revo's with the flexteks, Honestly in my opinion they really aren't worth it on a revo because you would break a bulkhead before you would manage to do any damage to RPM arms. The Flextek's are mainly for look's on the Revos in my opinion. The Flektek's on the E-Revo take alot to make them flex, The first time out I shattered a bulkhead because the Flextek arms ended up transfering all of the shock into the bulkhead. Now, If someone besides integy made aluminum bulks for the Revo's it would be good, But with the pitiful stock plastic one's it really doesn't help.