FLM18750 ultimate hybrid bulk
 

Im new here so if this is in another post im sorry. i purchased the front and rear FL hybrid bulks the ones that comes with the diff and i was curious will i need to change my gear ratio now my emaxx is completely stock except for the traxxas cvd's any help is appreciated THANKS!

The stock Traxxas diff ratio is 2.85:1 while the hybrids use buggy gears that are 3.31:1, so your truck will be slower in top speed and you will have to adjust the gearing to compensate with a bigger pinion and/or a smaller spur gear. Use BrianG's speed calculator to help figure out where you want to be.
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/top_speed.html

I don't want to create a new thread, so i post here.
Do the ultimate hybrid bulks are provided with 1/8 diff?

Yes.

Ok could someone help me with a little problem i installed the flm chassis and ultimate diffs and it is a little uncontrollable im running 23 pinion and 68 spur it wants to spin out of control under full throttle i adjusted the shocks no difference i adjusted the slipper no difference i toed in the rear tires a little more no difference im thinking maybe i have too thick of diff fluid im running 50,000 weight do you think thats to thick and locking up the rear end? any help would be apprieciated

Explain "uncontrollable" a little better. Does it spin in towards the same direction everytime? What motor are you using? You could change the throttle curves on you radio or esc.

Usually i can punch it of the line it either plants nice and takes off or pops a wheely which i can control with the throttle but now it wants to spin like it on an axis it also wants to drift when it does take off. Yes it does spin in the same direction everytime to the right and im using the 2200kv mamba monster combo. I just recently purchased the castle link i can experiment

You should be running something like 7k front & 5k rear, or 5k front & 3k rear, in terms of diff fluids; 50k front & rear does sound like it's much too heavy, especially for 1/8 scale diffs.

Something doesn't seem right about this.

I've always felt like the thicker the better for diff fluids.

It is both tires pulling together that makes you track straight.

Too thick a fluid can affect turning but not straight line acceleration.

Example: If a diff cup were dry, no grease, it would spin one tire more than the other and create what you are seeing.

You are putting the grease inside the diff cup where the spider gears are, right? Not just inside the diff where the ring and pinion are?

Then is something binding in the driveline on the right side?

A Bad Wheel bearing would make it do this.

Or if you're like me, grass being wrapped around things. LOL

50k in a front or rear diff should be putting the power down pretty evenly as that is thick even for a MT. I think it's just spinning the tires and drifting due to the gyroscopic effect of the motor and driveshafts.

Either that or something is off in the steerig and/or alignment dept. Emaxx servo savers are notoriously sloppy, use the black spring in the servo saver and double check the alignment. Also with the truck off the ground give it a little stab of throttle, see if the wheels steer themselves at all when doing so. You could give the left rear a little more toe than the right rear to help it track a little straighter if all else fails.

All great suggestions thanks for the replies and no i put the locking diff fluid inside the diff case were the spider gears are and then some chassis grease on the ring and pinion gears

Ive come to the conclusion that the diff fluid is to thick and transferring more power to the rear ill get some 5k or 7k and let you know!

Does any body know what size the set screws are on the FLM bulkheads the one that hold the suspension pins in THANKS for any info!

Pretty sure they are M3 set screws. :)

Ok after hours of wrenching i replaced the thick fluid and went 7k and 5k and its much easier to handle but i realized that the diff was locking up when i installed the drive cups soo i took the dremel to the cup where it rides against the bearing and its really smooth. I guess someone didnt do there homework and see that the FLM cups would work with the diff that comes with the kit!

After a few internet searches i cant find replacement parts for the diffs FLM uses in these kits i shimmed one wrong and it got a little crunchy i need the bevel gears and spyder gears some part numbers would be nice if anyone knows i contacted FLM they sent me here and CASTER RACING dont even know that FLM uses there diffs

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that the Hybrids haven't been altered in order to use the caster racing diffs, in which case the Hybrids would still work with other brands like ofna & hotbodies ( and LST diff internals too ). In that case you could start from scratch with new internals which are easier to find parts for ( never known someone make such a meal out of assembling diffs... :lol: ), or you can go to ebay & type in 'caster racing'- you will find various bits of diff including the ring, pinion & spider gears. Trouble is they sell various different models with different didds, so that complicates things.

You may be able to look up part numbers on the caster website, though you won't get any joy when it comes to asking about compatibility; FLM could have gone with any brand of diffs to fit their hybrid bulks, but that brand has no input or affililation with FLM. I'd just try and find out exactly which model(s) the diffs are for, that will make it easier to find the right spares.

Our Slipperential internal gears will work with the FLM diffs - the gaskets and cross pins are different, but the pins should work if needed - the actual gears, shims and O-Rings should be a direct replacement.
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...Msldiffrebuild

Quick note on the crunchy gears - the gasket that seals the ring gear and diff cup is important - if it is too thick, the gears inside will have a loose mesh and will therefore be prone to stripping. The diffs are prebuilt with paper gasket IIRC, but include a blue thicker gasket which may or may not cause backlash issues - make sure the gears have a smooth, but not sloppy mesh(I like a slight notch on a new diff build to allow for break-in).

Great thanks for all your help

Guys, please give the part number of the differential, which can be replaced.
I strongly twisted bolt in the differential housing and damaged threads. Ordered this one, it does not fit. I want to buy the whole assembly, and to know what is suitable for replacement in the Ultimate Hybrid Bulk (FLM18750)

Thank you very much !!!

You need a Caster racing diff case- unfortunately I don't know which one exactly; if you contact FLM directly they may be able to help...

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caster-Rac...item35bc1eff72

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Caster-Rac...item19cfeb4f4b

Thank you very much !!!