Revo shocks
 

What are the best shocks for a Revo. I was thinking of getting the Integy MSR6's but I'm not sure if it's a good shock. What about the GTR shock bodies and shafts? I need the ULTIMATE in smoothness.

I have no problems with the stock ones, smooth as silk

But stockers are blah....;)

I just plain love those Traxxas hard-anod ones, with the TiNitride shafts... almost zero abrasion on the inside. Get some Jato boots along with them, and you have a killer setup!

I always replace those blue x-rings with two proper, thin, black O-rings.

Last time I rebuild them on the G3R, the oil was still clean and no leaking whatsoever. was very surprised. And they are smooth!

....yeah, who cares if they work ok :027:

Sort of on topic,
I put some alu shock mounts on my leccy one, and now have bent 2 shafts in two weeks. Some thing thats never happened with my Nitro one, I wonder if this is related? or just bad luck ??

I still use the x-seals and no problems

Ja, in the shocks they work better than in the diffs, true.

I set my trucks to bottom before it runs out of suspension so i have never heard of that before

Thats odd, i still have my stock mounts and they are fine. (hard bashing)

P.S: Wow Squee, your a mod now! Great job!

Thanks Sylvester!
Yea, I think it has something to do with your suspension setup. The Revo shafts are pretty bulky. Kinda hard to believe you bent them!

Give me somthing for long enough and I will break it no matter how bulky.:027:

I'm gonna put the stock mounts back on and see, Jr..I set my trucks to bottom out on the chassis too, that wont help though if you come down one wheel first. :032:

Oh,well done Squee :dft003:

I have hit on one wheel, i found a tree with the perfect approach to climb and flip, i was doing backflips and flairs with many bad landings and nothing bent or broke

Squee, congrats:)

Thanks Cabking and Crazy!

Yea, I have NEVER had any problems with the shafts. I do like the GTR but I would kinda like to here something one the MSR6 shocks.

Well, like most shocks that are made from integy (savage/emaxx/lst etc) they have all seemed to bend in the same place (shafts). I personally would go with the traxxas GTR shocks. And if your going for the piggybacks, imo they are useless.

Well the savage and maxx shocks are on the a arms and take alot of beating. The revo is on the chassis and are hidden from some of the beating. I not sure how you would bend one on a revo. If you like the msr6 try them and see. They are fairly new so hard to say. You can tell us how it does then.

They did bend ..........honest :005: forgot to mention that I used aul shock ends too.

Never in 18 months did I bend a shaft on my my Nitro Revo although I did bend a few mount screws, Now I've got the alu mounts on, the screws are staying straight but the shafts are bending, Ive put the stock plastic one's back on tonight..............extreme testing to follow :028:

Have you tried the Titanium Nitride coated shafts? They should be stronger.

I honestly like the MSR6 shocks. They have the piggybacks, aluminum shock mounts, aluminum spring retainers, ect. Very nice shocks for less than 55 bucks....I'm just wondering how they compare to the GTR shocks though. I would hate to get the Integy and find that there not even as good as the stockers.

I use racers edge alumnium shock ends

I was thinking of getting a couple of sets of RD Racing rod ends for my trucks.

Aluminum rod ends might look nice, but whenever I broke a shock it was right at the end of the threads where it's tough to get at. It was easier and cheaper to throw away the rod end.

IMO, get some of the Ti shock bodies, but keep the stock ends.

Well the reason I was gonna get them is because on the nitro trucks the exhaust over the rear heats them up and causes them to warp and get slack in them which traslates to alot at the wheels. I had one that had warped so much that it cause a quarter of an inch of slack at the wheels...

Well, that's easy to fix: convert to brushless! :D

Seriously, I see your point. What about a heat shield right below the pipe? Something thermally insulative, but doesn't melt...

Well why convert to electric? I already have one... One nitro and one electrics fine with me...I can only run one at a time anyway. I think ima just get the aluminum ends and be done with it. I think something like what your talking about will help but I don't think it will cure the problem completely because the pipe gets hotter than the motor does. ALOT hotter.

When I had a Nitro and an electric Revo, I never took the Nitro one out because it's such a PITA to tinker with and clean up compared to slapping some batteries in and running. I ended up selling the Nitro one for almost $500 and used the proceeds to buy more BL stuff. :)

I would probably do that if I didn't race. I think I'm just gonna get a 3.3 for it.

May I ask the dimensions and the material of the two ,thin ,black o-rings?
I would like to change the x-rings to ordinary 0-rings.

What do ya'll think about the MIP hard anodized shock bodies?

I just replaced 4 MIP bodied shocks with GTR shocks. The id of the bodies is too large and doesn't seal against the side of the piston well. I was running 100wt oil up front with the #2 piston and it felt like 20wt because the oil would just past by the piston side and no go through the holes. I'm loving the GTR shocks.

Thank!

Thanks alot ccristo! I was gonna get the PL threaded shock bodies soon but ill just get the gtr's.

Sylvester, PL? As in Proline? or Powerline? or what?