Whats up guys? Heres my work in progress!
 

http://s9.postimage.org/4yz01dpjj/Em...onster_001.jpg
http://s9.postimage.org/fn2r07zin/Em...onster_002.jpg
http://s9.postimage.org/p8wbgiqof/Em...onster_004.jpg
http://s9.postimage.org/tw2diae1b/Em...onster_003.jpg

I couldnt figure out what else to do with mounting the servos, they dont quite fit in the chassis, they're too small. :neutral:




Castle 1717 :yipi:

Mental note


Turn motor wires so they are facing down... any position but up dummy

Are those UE arms? t's looking real good, you will love:love: the 1717!:yes:

Welcome to RC-Monster:intello: The more the merrier!

Yes, they are UE Racer-X suspension.... I couldnt resist when I saw them :D

That's a nice truck there! Powerstroke shocks are really smooth, good choice!

What rims and tires are those?

Awesome you joined up here man! Good people and lots of great information. Your Maxx is looking great!! :yipi:

That is the suspension kit from my Predator that I parted out. :yes:

Thanks guys! I ran it for the first time yesterday and it is TOTALLY under geared. I can mash the throttle from a dead stop and within 10' its lit all 4 tires up and is crusin at a top speed of 20mph :lol:

I just ordered a XO-1 pinion gear and Im going to switch out the stock spur for a Revos. Right now I am running a 26T and I have a 34T on the way :whistle:


nitrostarter, they are Maximizer bead locks with Imex claw dawgs.

Maybe its a bit faster then I thought it was! Got it out of the street today and started rippin around the yard. Ran it into a light pole out front while I was zippin down the side walk and broke a bulkhead and poped the head off of one of the stock hinge pins. I had to use the stock pins on the front lower position because there isnt room enough to put a pin in there and a collar to hold it on. I used Plastix ejector pins for the rest.

The motor and esc dont get hot, they get warm to the touch and thats about it. The batterys seem to be outside temps. The servos bug me a little, they are digital and I am pretty sure my radio is in high response mode right now. Are they supposed to buzz? They buzz and get warm, never hot but warm. Should I turn off high response since they are physically linked together?

Any suggestions on gearing? Is it even possible to over gear this thing with the options I have?

Nice to see your project here too, and welcome. Any servo will "buzz' if it is not in the position the wheel on the transmitter is indicating the servo should be. IE: The TX wheel is centered and the servo isn't. If you lift the front wheels of the truck off the ground the weight of the truck won't be stopping the servo's from centering themselves and the buzzing should stop. If it doesn't, that means one servo is "fighting" the other to get into the correct position. To remedy this you will have to adjust the links going from the servo horn to the bellcrank. They should be the same length, but it doesn't always work out exact, and you can't always silence them completely. But you should be able to get them to not make noise when there's no load on them (wheels off the ground) and they're able to center themselves.

Gearing: A nitro Revo spur gear won't work, way too small and also Mod1 instead of 32pitch. The stock Erevo spur should be the same as a stock Emaxx spur 68t. If the motor mount allows you can go with a smaller sput, I know 65T and 62T is availible for these transmissions from Traxxas. How many cells are you running? Theres also a nice gearing calculator BrianG from this forum made up to help you figure some things out.
http://scriptasylum.com/rc_speed/

I have used that but I am not sure of the transmission gear ratio. I think I remember seeing 1.83 somewhere? Not sure so I used the 2nd gear out of the savages 3 speed for a ratio of 1.89. With all the other right selections and 16v, its geared for 30.75mph with 0 tire growth and 5.75" tires.

Use "Traxxas E-Maxx (3905) 1 speed or 2nd gear" option for the transmission, which is a 1.83333333 ratio. With that big motor you should be able to gear it to 45mph without issue. I'd pickup a 62T spur to go along with that 34T pinion, get you a couple more mph and they're cheap. A 58T Jato spur fits the slipper, but I don't know if its too small to mesh with the pinion or not.

The pinion for the XO-1 is MOD 1, from what I understand so that wont be possible. I need to find a 32p gear and a smaller spur, although I dont have much room left for the motor to move.

You can use Nitro Revo spur gears, they are Mod1 and smaller and will bolt right on:yes:

http://youtu.be/o3yFHQYbqas

http://youtu.be/tAIQZAnKaV8

No budget left for the camera :lol:

The Revo spur gears are too small for me to use, there isnt enough room between the motor and the transmission to get the correct gear mesh. I may try ordering a 28T/54T combo and see how that works out... Gearing charts says it will put me close to 40mph and I am also thinking about moving to Monster Pirate wheels/tires.

Maybe you can use the Robinson Gen3 spur/slipper kit. It works awesome on the 3905 transmissions.

What kind of motormount is this?

I think the rear shocks should be switched around.

I forgot you were running that big 1717. It's time to step up to buggy diffs front and rear to lower your overall drive ratio:yes:

Klausen, I cant switch the rear shocks around becuase, the springs on the power strokes rub the arms. Kershaw Designs made the motor mount, I bought it off of some guy over on RCTech

Paralyzed, I just ordered a custom pinion from Kershaw with 36 teeth! I dont quite have the cash to go for the 1/8th diffs yet and I want to see how the stockers hold up. I may also try the UE ultra lite cases for the stock diffs... If all else fails, I may have to get the 8 spyder diffs. Im gonna need a temp gun too, to keep an eye on the motor with these taller gears. $$$$$

Speed calculator says Ill be around 50mph with the new pinion and bigger tires... which raises the question. Monster Pirate Spikes or Jumbo Claw Dawgs??? OR 5T wheels?

I think I would need a truck body to go with the Jumbo tires but I think the bug would look good with 5T wheels. Does anyone make adapters to run these wheels?

Maybe look towards LST diffs as a cheaper route for 1/8 diffs.

Ive read that intalling the aluminum diff housing helps a lot in keeping the ring and pinion gears happy. I think that will be my first upgrade. The diffs seem to be handling the torque pretty well right now but a larger whee/tire combo might blow their nuts out.
The tires on there now just dont get the grip to do any harm. Plus I need to find a better place to bash, front yards kinda lame for a monster truck!

Gearing has changed again! Dan is sending me a 31T pinion and I already have a 54T spur on the way. With the jumbo claw dawgs it says I should expect 50mph with 3.8v per cell. If thats too tall, Ill just stick with the stock spur gear.

Whats the general rule on motor temps? battery and esc? I have had brushless setups before but they never got hot, too hot to hold anyways.

Although not always true, a rule of thumb is:
Hot motor, cool controller, cool batteries = undergeared
Cool motor, hot controller, hot batteries = overgeared
Warm motor, warm controller, warm batteries = happy components

Hot, warm, and cool vary as well, so here's another general rule:
Hot for a motor = generally over 160F (71C)
Hot for a controller = generally over 150F (66C)(or "thermal" range for the controller)
Hot for batteries = generally over 150F (66C) for nimh, 130F (54C) for lipo
Warm for a motor = generally 100F (38C) through 150F (66C)
Warm for a controller = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C)
Warm for batteries = generally 100F (38C) through 130F (54C) for nimh, ambient temp through 120F (49C) for lipo
Cool for all components = generally ambient temp and up to 10 degrees F (5.6C) more

the way it is geared now I would say that I have

Warm motor, cool controller, cool batteries

I will keep an eye on it when I change the gearing and tires. Thanks for the info!

I'm willing to bet that the 1717 is pretty undergeared with your current set up. Some taller tires will not only add speed to the equation but also some rotational mass to add more of a load on the motor.

Taller tires are on the way along with a few gearing options... itll be haulin the mail here shortly!

I weighed my truck today and it came in at 12lbs fully loaded. The power strokes seem a little soft for it. The truck sucks up the bumps without issue but it bottoms out if you drop it from over a foot off the ground. I already have the stiffest springs they made for them so I may try a thicker shock oil. If that doesnt work I was thinking about long rear buggy shocks.

Replaced the stock 30wt oil with 50wt today and it seemed to be a good improvement. I may switch to an even higher weight but Ill have to run this for a while and see how it works out.

Still waitin on some parts in the mail :sleep:

Holy Shit
 

http://s8.postimage.org/c8793p885/emaxx_shaft_001.jpg

I finally got a 31T pinion and installed it :lol:
The 1717 on 4s is a monster. RIP U joint :rules:

Replaced it and all is well again. For a little while at least.

Does anyone else get torque steer in their E-Maxx? Mine rotates to the left under hard acceleration, if it doesnt get grip. Would thicker diff oil help?

Oil won't help, it is simply torque steer as you stated.

I have a 1717 too in my maxx and run it on 6s. Gear: 28 / 51 It still too fast for narrow area.
I break those shaft regulary but still use them as fuse part and cheap to replace but with LST diff I put dogbone in center.
I never toutch my diff since I instal them. ( alnost 2 year running an a lot of pulling my kids around with it)
The punch control is up to 80%.
1717 is a beast!

I can post pics and vid if you want.

Fred

I would love to see your truck in action!

Install the Traxxas diff kit in your transmission. A lot of that will go away along with any wheelies your doing now on hard acceleration.
With the diff in your transmission you get a lot better power distribution to all 4 wheels. I installed the Traxxas diff into both my G4's with the newer trans.

Traxxas Diff kit part# TRA5614, or #5614 for EMaxx and Erevo:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...fferential-Kit

- Justin

:mdr:I am going to leave it full time 4wd for now.... I like pullin the front off the ground

Here are a few random pics
Below, tires coming off the beads even though I glued in some spots and the screws TIGHT!
http://s9.postimage.org/yljkyp773/stuffs_043.jpg

http://s9.postimage.org/blcxmd9db/stuffs_045.jpg
Here is the wear from the insane torque :whistle:
http://s9.postimage.org/5lp6ipokv/stuffs_046.jpg
More body shots... I cant keep this thing off the lid.
http://s9.postimage.org/a8v8khbxr/stuffs_047.jpg

http://s9.postimage.org/lzdrflu3z/stuffs_048.jpg

http://s9.postimage.org/8xs2pr5pr/stuffs_049.jpg

So far, the diffs have held up and I have only destroyed one U-joint. The truck still seems to sputter off the line but once its going, it has power... Still havent figured it out but I think its the batteries. I dont really know how to check if it is.

vid1
vid2
vid3
vid4
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...c/IMG_2514.jpg
can play complete 6s lipo until cut off

Fred

That is amazing! Ice as far as you can see... looks nice out there! I get tired of being in a concrete jungle sometimes.

Hree is my playground
30 km side to side

http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...ac_St-Jean.jpg

Nice one too!!!

What did you use as monting plate? Stock?
Do you plan to change the chassi or wait until it break?
I bought a set of EXT arm and 15mm knuckle, RCM center diff mount for cheap that waiting to be mount on the truck but I don't have the time to do it. And I'm not sure that I want to switch to center diff since I hace a full Ultramaxxed 3906 trans that make it bulletproof.
http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/i...c/IMG_0232.jpg

What would you do?
Maybe by another chassi and build a second truck.
Fred