my truggy (work in progress)
 

this is my truggy. i still need a motor and speed control. i was thinking of a 1930/8 on 16 GP 3300's,and a Quark 125. is this a good choice? i am mainly going to be racing, the races will be 5 min. long and the A-main's will be 7 min. i will be competing against nitros. thanks :027:

Nice! I would possibly go for a slightly larger motor. Maybe a 1950/8? What kind of buggy was that orginally?

1940/7 on 14 cell's is plenty.

The 1930/8 is a bit too hot, what is the exact gearing ratio on that truck?

A slightly larger motor would be nice for a 'direct drive' type.

A 1950 is not needed though, a 1940 would be okay.

If you shoting for 16 cells. I would go with a 1940 8 turn or so. it will be enough to push it nicely. I think the 1930 may not have enough for the direct drive like serum said. Are the diffs front and back 3.31 or 4.3? What about the spur you have to.

and these are komodo's, right?

What speed you want to hit? Is it a tight track?

hey everyone it was a OFNA ultra gt that i bought at my lhs for $100.

i believe that the diffs are 3.3:1 and it has a 51 tooth plastic spur. they are ofna diffs.

yes those are komodo's.

the track is small maybe 60 foot straight with tight turns, that is why i choose a 1930/8.



:018:

No reason to stick 16 cell's in there. Only extra weight, cause you don't need hypersonic speed.

i would like a motor that i could bash with 16 cells and race with 12 or 14.

1940/8 maybe?:eek:

That would be perfect.

some more pics. any idea on which body i should use? i like the croud pleaser

but the '70 cuda fits better; what about the California Cruiser?:032:

more....

again more....

more...

I love the one from post no 13..

but that's just a matter of opinion, you need to choose your own body, that's something very personal imo.

i like that body too. my dad did that one. i did the other two. the California Cruiser has balsa wood on the body for a real woody look and feel. :005:

Race the woody,it rocks:027:

Glad to hear i am not the only one who likes it.. I thought my taste was going mental on me..

woody it is then.

back on topic here, i think a 1940/7 with 12-16 cells or 4s or 5s lipo would do it.

about how much run time would i get with GP 3300's or 3700mah lipo?

also what about gearing, i all ready have the 51 tooth spur, but what pinion

should i get?:002:

the runtime pretty much depends on your drivestyle. i would say a 8-10 minute on the track.

About your motorchoice; here is what you should do;

do some calculations on the rpm's/voltage. and aim for the 30-35000 rpm. so with a 16 cells setup, you would need a kv of about 1800 rpm. Do your gearing calculations from there.

update on my truggy. did away with the old motor mount and found a new heat sink one at my lhs. it is made by team magic (old sub-company of trinity). it was $30, but i got it for 50 cents!:005: it is alot stronger then the old one and is bolted to the chassis and diff mount, dosen't move at all. the mount was originally purple and the chassis was blue, so i striped the anodizing and made everything sliver. also made a esc/reciver mount out of clear polyester. it is some what flexible so it will absorb any shock from awkward landings.

i was thinking of going with a less expensive motor. mould i be just as happy with a 7xl opposed to a 1940/8? i am still sticking with the quark 125. on to the pics...

more pics...

i don't want to start a new thread so i'll post here. i also converted my monster gt to electric. its only 2wd right now, need to get a custom front dogbone from mike. also still need to get motor and speed controler for both trucks. lets hope this summer job works out:002: . pics...

That's looking real nice. Question for you. How'd you template the flames on the bodies from the inside? A little off the topic, but I'm in the process of trying to get flames on mine...thanks!

first draw the flames on the outside of the body with a sharpie. do one side then copy it on the other side if you want it even. then line the inside of the body with masking tape (use the tan masking tape not the blue stuff, you can not see through the blue tape). cut out the flames with an exacto knife on the inside of the body. it helps if you have a light box or table to make seeing through the tape easier.

if you are just doing flames on the hood or side of the body you could trace out the perimeter of your area on paper, design the flames on the paper, cut it out on contact paper and lay it out on the inside of the body. also get clear contact paper not frosted, you can not see through the frosted really good. hope this helps! i want to see the body when its done!:018:

Thanks! This will be my first body, so not sure how it will turn out! But can't get good unless you practice!!! When the truck is done i will post pics! Thanks, that help tremendously!!!!

no problem, good luck!

thanks! i'll play with it this weekend. So you can't seethe cuts from the outside that are made on the in? I was going to do that but was a little worried.

you can a light box just makes it easier to see. xxx main makes pre-cut flames and other designs that go on the outside of the body and paint masks and internal decals that go on the inside of the body if you are not into cutting your own flames.

here is a link from tower http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...=++&search3=Go

So if i cut from the inside (the pattern) and then paint, after the paint is dry, you can see the cuts you made on the paint job????

On the inside of the body you mean? If so, you can when its clear but when you paint over it, you can't unless its really deep.

yes, you do not see the cut lines. let the blade do the work, do not press down hard with the exacto knife.

That's exactly what i needed!!!!!!!! Cool, i think i got it! Now just gotta put the pattern on the outside, tape on the in and cut...very gently! thanks guys!

Update, lots of pics. I wasn’t real happy with the batteries zip tied on to the mud guards, so I made battery trays out of clear polyester. The polyester is 5mm thick and it is really easy to work with. It doesn’t crack either, it just bent when I hit it with a hammer. Finally got a good shot of the motor mount and got the rear body mounts put on.

The truck only weighs 6 lbs even with 16 cells, no motor or esc so it should fly with a 7xl. Hopefully I will be getting the 7xl next week, I decided that the 1940 was just too expensive. on to the pics...:018:

more pics...

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one more:027:

WOW! Makes me want to do a truggy! Nice man, real nice!!!

thanks :018:

i have a question about gearing. if i get a 7xl what pinion should i get? i will be running 16 cells with 51 tooth center spur and stock ofna diffs. thanks

No one knows about the gearing?:032: