maxxamps
 

Ok guys. so i found this on maxxamps. MaxAmps Lipoly 8000mah 3S2P 11.1V Pack $159.99

Is this one pack or two? I thought the 2p meant two packs? this looks like one.
I've also been pondering on getting the 12020 controller. Would it handle 3s2p 8000mah? What volts should I get with Lipo with this controller? If I don't go 3s2p, i'll go one 3s and one 2s in series wiring. Am I on the right track? thanks! i want to run two packs in series...thanks!

yep thats one pack the p stands for cells in parallel. that controller will be fine you will just need a lvc (low voltage cutoff) for your lipos. i take it your wonting to run 5s (18.5 volts) in your truck? if so you'll need that pack plus a 8000mah 2s2p pack an run them in series. hope that makes sense :025:

A little. I guess what's confusing is the lingo. Squee suggested i run 5s , one 3s, one 2s at 8000. So what he meant was one 3s2p 4000 mah, and one 2s2p 4000mah = 5s2p 8000 in series wiring? is that right? Now, how do i configure the volts? Amps? Fpr some reason i thought series wiring only doubled the volts? IE: 7.2 x 2 in series = 14.4.

if you went with 4000mah packs and wonted to run them in series (positive to negitive) you would still end up with 4000mah the mah only increses if you run the packs in parallel (positive to positive). i would suggest running 1 3s2p6000mah pack and 1 2s2p6000mah pack wire them in series (positive to negitive) to get a 5s pack. series does only dubble the volts. in your case its 11.1 of the 3s pack and 7.4 of the 2s pack, wire them in series to get 18.5 volts

Ok, i get it! Taht would work with my 9920 wouldn't it! The 6000 mah wise i mean would work with the 9920?

why not just get the 5s3p 6600mah pack and not have to worry about wiring? 18.5v 90a 820g $261, or am I missing something, cause I plan on running this pack, only the 4400mah

The one pack 5s2p? My 9920 is already in series wiring. So my end thoughts...12020: one 3s2p 8000, one 2s2p 8000, in series. Or 9920: one 3s2p 6000mah, one 2s2p 6000 in series. Both of these set ups would work with a 10xl BK?

no maxamps has a 5s3p 6600 mah that I am talking about, but you're already wired for 2 packs so that's cool, I am wanting to use only 1 pack that is why I am looking at this pack

If you run one pack all your weight is going to be on one side unless you have a truck with it mounted in the center. The 9920 can run on 6s lipo as well.

HOLD ON GUYS.... Newuser, first off, the only difference in the 9920 and the 12020 is how many amps it is capable of delievering to the motor. A 9920 is PLENTY for a 10XL. No need to get a 12020. Also, I would recommend either 5S LiPo or 6S LiPo. 6S is about like 20 cells and 5S is about like 16. I'm running a 10XL as well and going with 6S LiPo. It just depends on how fast you want to go. Now, as for batteries. Get 2 packs and not one because it balances out the weight evenly. Chaos, one reason not to get the 5S3P is because thats 15 cells! a 5S2P 8000mah would be better and only 10 cells. Stampy has it right as well. Series only doubles the voltage. Parallel doubles mah and amp draw but not voltage. I would run series because usually parallel will be more expensive. Newuser, go with 2 3S2P packs or 1 3S2P pack and 1 2S2P pack in series for 5S2P. Understand? Lastly, the 9920 can handle ANY mah as well. No worries about that.

well you say no due to it being 15 cells, but what is the difference when it still comes to 18.5 volts and plenty of amps? and I think the balance will work since the motor is offset, and I will put the controller and receiver where the other battery goes. Not trying to argue, just trying to get it sorted out::028:

15 cells is alot! That pack much be HUGE. I personally don't think that the motor, controller, servo, and rec. way as much as that pack. Probably like half...

the 5s3p is 820 grams, the 5s2p(which I will run) is 543 grams, a standard 7 cell pack is 560 grams

Yea, I would stick with the 5S2P if your heart is set on a 1 pack setup.

not totally, but for the price and the maintenace, I could have 1 pack and run about the same as if I had 2, plus I would only have to charge 1 and run 1, am I wishfully thinking or will this work just fine it's just not the norm?

squee, there's no problem with lots of cells in a Lipo pack... I have 2 separate packs each with 12 cells...

And about parallel being more expensive, it doesn't work like that. You pay for the number of cells that are in the pack. For example, a 3s2p would cost the same as a 2s3p because they both have 6 cells.

Chaos, did you happen to look at the specs on that 5s3p 6600mah pack (that uses 2200mah cells)? It's 35mm wide x 96mm long x 126mm TALL. You'd need some special way to mount that... Those 2200mah cells are best suited for airplanes because they are 35mm wide and only 96mm long. Normal car batteries (6cell NiMh) occupy ~46mm wide x 135mm long.

I did notice that and I think straps in place of the stock retainers would work, with room to spare on the sides and front, it would mainly just stick up higher. Am I not looking at the dimensions right?

What I meant when I said its usually more expensive to run packs in parallel, I ment like to get 2 5S1P packs and wire them in parallel for more mah. It's usually cheaper to just get different packs with a higher mah and put them in series. About the number of cells, its not that theres a problem with 15 cells in 1 pack, its just the weight. I just don't like the added weight as with most people.

You'd need some very tall straps. 126mm in American/Imperial size is about 5in., and that's the height. There's no way you could effectively keep the pack together and hold it securely.

It depends where you look. Many times it is actually cheaper to get a pack with cells in parallel than a pack with larger cells. Part of the reason for that is if there are more cells made, then that drives the cost down (that's how it works with everything). As for added weight, there is a little bit because the "pouches" have a larger surface area, but for those like myself, the cost difference outweighs the weight difference. The way I see it, as long as it's lighter/more powerful than NiMh, then it's all good :004:.

well it looks like I did my numbers wrong, lol, 5 inches won't fit very well at all! So much for 1 pack then, I think I will go with 2 8000mah 2s2p packs, they are rated at 96amp constant discharge, but it brings me back down to 14.8v instead of 18.5! grrrrr but they will fit and they are very light

Yes, that setup would work quite nicely. It's car friendly too :).

Squee, i guess the only reason i was thinking new controller is because i was reading that the mah, when increased, seemed to put out more of a burst of amps. But from here, I think i'll go like this. one 3s2p 8000mah, one 2s2p 8000 mah taking me to 18.5 v? and use my 9920. wiring it in series. would this be ok? i think i get it now. I hope! Going 6s would be getting to close to my limitation for my controller though right? too many volts?

6s would be fine for the 9920. It would be like ~19 NiMh cells.

So i could run 2 3s2p? Wouldn't i be getting close to the controller limitations?

It would be fine on the controller. It would be getting close, but won't harm it.

Cool. Maybe that's the bet then. All I need is a charger that would charge the 2 3s2p 8000mah packs then. Then a balancer right, LVC? Any advice on a good charger, balancer, LVC for these packs? Also, the LVC is connected to the system right in the receiver and batt? The balancer is used when charging the batts? thanks guys!

The LVC can be soldered to the controller's input wires (or connector), and then will go inline with the controller's receiver wire and the receiver.
The balancer is used during charging.

Contact Mike about getting those items (balancer, charger, LVC).

You're welcome, neweuser!

And Thanks! Connector wires, you're not talking about the batt wires that the ubec goes to, but the 3 that go to the receiver? so you'd wire it to the three on the controller wires that go into the reciever, kinda like how you do the ubec on the batt wires(same concept)?

By input wires I meant the controller's battery wires (battery input), and the connector that you're using on the battery wires, like the UBEC.

Would you have a pic? I think i know what you mean, but not sure. From my understanding....wire into batt wires on controller(like ubec), that part i got. But if you have to plug it into the receiver...where? Wait for a min, if it's a low voltage cut off, would it not have to go to the batt?

There are 3 sets of wires on a LVC (for the type we are discussing). One set measures the voltage of the battery, and connects to the speed control's battery wires. Another set connects to the speed control's receiver wire (that would normally plug into channel two). The third set connects to channel two on the receiver. The way the device works is it detects the voltage of the battery, and once the voltage gets low enough, it modifies the signal from the receiver to the speed control so that the motor pulses.
Let me know if you still need a picture.

That makes sense. Clarification(cuz i always have to!), wire to the controller batts connectors as you do with a ubec(more little wires to go with big ones...how fun!), then you plug the receiver harness into the lvc, then plug the lvc in channel two? So there must be a Y adaptor involved here?

No Y-adapter. Here is a choice for a LVC to demonstrate how they are hooked up:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...ir&FVPROFIL=++
The red wire connects to the positive battery wire that goes to the speed control. The speed control's receiver wire plugs into those three pins that are sticking out to the right. The other receiver wire plugs into the channel two on the receiver.

i see, that's kinda like a y adaptor but different. got it! thanks! now it makes sense!