too hot only affecting mid range?
 

LSP with 8XL and 9920. 2 5000Mah batterys wired in series.reciever pack

after 3-4 minutes I loose all mid range. still have full throttle and full speed. Let it sit for a minute and it is OK .
9920 is 110 at fan and 160 at capacators
motor got to 160 after about 10 laps with cool down minutes. no fan on motor or heat sink. geared 13/44

like the throttle goes from 0 to 10 and I have nothing from 3 to 8 after a few minutes.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...2/DSC04443.jpg

Nope, i guess it's something else.

If the controller thermals, it should thermal overall, not only on the mid-range.

I'm so lucky to always have these wierd problems.
I never loose steering or feel any glitching. I wish I had another speed control to try. other than swapping parts I'm lost on this one.

are you running 2s or 3s packs on there. Have you tried to drop a tooth on pinion to see?

2 batterys 2s2p 5000Mah wired in series.

I went from a 16 to a 15 to a 13. no difference with problem big difference in top speed.

did you try to reprogram it. I had some weird stuff happening to me and reprogrammed it and it helped out.

yes I reprogramed it the first time it happenned and it immeadiatlly fixed it BUT it may just of been a cool down time thing andnot the reprograming. You can hold it in the air and move the throttle and nothing happens untill almost full throttle . steering works at same time throtle doesn't.
I even tired no brakes and no reverse and no difference.
I am also using mechanical brakes and disconnected the brake servo and just ran motos brakes as a test and it seemd to take longer before the "problem".

I would try another transmitter/receiver combo. If that doesn't help, the speedo needs to be returned for a check.

Ok I'l try .

Or, if you don't have another Tx/Rx, use the steering port for the throttle as a test. You know the steering has full range. And then to make sure, put the steering cable in the throttle port and see if steering has full and linear travel.

I have a brushless mini inferno so I swapped everything and the problem stayed with the LSP

Sounds like a problem with the speedo to me.

Which is weird, because it gets small pulses from the receiver, the length/speed of the pulses only change from half WOT to full WOT..

Did you checked your capacitors on the speedo? check them to see if they are not popped.

You could test another battery set if you have it. Sounds odd though, i can't imagine it are the batteries, but you'got to aim before you shoot, right?

remember it works fine for a few minutes . could be a bad solder joint someware that expands when hot and makes a bad connection.

one thing I didn't think to check is to hook the brake servo back up and see if that servo moves normal when the motor won't. I disconnected it cause I thought havinig that on the same channel might BE the problem.

what is the warentee on this part? I can't go to mike cause I bought it elseware ( shame on me) lesson learned. LOL!

I think Mike would still help you with it.

I give up. I hooked up the brake servo so I can watch it and ran figure 8"S in the street for 4 minutes and I couldn't get it to screw up only happens at the track maybe? getting jarred from the jumps? bad solder joint????
anyway I put a heat sink from a computer on the motor and it is running MUCH cooler.

I noticed the caps on the controlleer are different temps. ONE is 130degrees and the others are 90 to 100.

Here is a pick of the worlds largest rc18T:

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y29...2/DSC04449.jpg

Maybe the track gets it hotter. Then it shows itself.
I have an esc that loses reverse when it gets hot.
I had an esc that would only run at part throttle until you jump it a few times then it would speed up. Then it would slow back down after a few more.
It smoked not long after that.

Auto2 I get this same problem with my 9920, but it also only happens during racing. The ESC is at about 155 when it does this.

I'm looking at getting a Quark 125.

darren, you thinking it is not a defect just not set up right for racing?

can you check if your caps are different temps? cause only one of the 4 get that hot.

you think a fan should be on the capacators also?

I think you should put a big heatsink on your esc and a fan on the caps - should keep it cool.

speaking of fans, can i just get an old pc fan and hook it up to a 9v battery and use it or do i have to get a bec operated one?

It's up to you.

if the fan is rated at 12 volts it wont do much at 9 volts.

this is definatlly some kind of heat issue.

I just ran it with a second fan on the caps and it lasted longer before I lost all mid range.
could someone check if all the capacators are the same temp or one is always hotter like mine.

I added a fan pointing at the caps but as soon as a little dirt hit it the blades broke off. guess a computer doesn't have 20 mile an hour dirt in it.LOL!

Hey ben - the caps should be about the same temp - they all do the same thing - and you may also be running boat software - but my guess is faulty controller. When Mike gets back from vacation we'll try to get it figured out for you....

Ok sounds like a plan.thanks

Just to clarify, i had a very similar problem with my 10L/9920 combo, but after i switched to a lehner 1950 my 9920 ran cooler and stopped glitching on mid-range operation.

I'm gonna try a 24V fan and see what I get. I think one of my caps is hotter, hard to tell with my finger.

darren, are you running 24volts?
I am running 14.8 and am using 12V fans .
I added a fan to the motor and one blowing on the caps and there IS a noticible difference. It is getting better.

I run 21.6V (18 cells) and a 24V was the closest to it.

When I race it and it goes all funky, I am only running 16.8V (14 cells)

I've yet to test the fan though, might get to this weekend if I can be bothered soldering it on.

Do you have any holes in your shell? My ESC is getting absolutely no air (Oops), gonna cut the shell and see how it goes.

update- I finally got a new controller. he traded me a 120 amp with dounle wires for the 99 amp.
Immeadiate improvment. it was definatlly a bad controller.

I was at rons and he showed me a lipo for his helicopter. Square in size( will fit on LSP and 22 volts at 4400Mah! 2 of them in parallel would be interesting.
will my new 12020 controller and 8XL like that voltage? I would have to do some serious regearing.LOL! from the 14.8 volta I have now.

The 9920/12020 handle 20 NiMH cells. That's 24v so you should be OK. Just don't forget there is no LVC in the BKs...