Another Quark Question
 

Ok guys. I'm pretty much set on this thing. The Only thing that scares me, is that people have been smoking them. I really don't want to spend 280.00 on a controller that people are saying it makes a funny noise, or they have burned it out, or something like that. Has anyone ran these and have had a great success story?

I'd like to know too! I sold my stock E-Maxx and my EVX ESC went with it so I'm committed to the brushless set-up for my Super-EMAXX now and I was planning on the Quark Monster 125B!

No problems here so far. Runs a little warm for my liking though so I added a heatsink. All is well now...

How did you add a heat sink? and btw I was looking at a 9XL how do you like the 10XL an how many cells are you using with it?

Sounds good. Anyone else know about it?

Here's a pic. I posted it before but can't remember which thread. I secured the heatsink using thermal epoxy (not regular thermal compound) for the best heat transfer. It stays much cooler - around 12-15 degrees.

I plan on using 5s Lipos. Currently using 12 NiMH just to get around, and seems to go very well, although I haven't hit top speed.

http://bgosselin.home.mchsi.com/e-revo/Revo2_esc.jpg

I remember that. Very nice! Where'd you get the heat sink? In your opinion, will the Quark handle 6s lipo(2 3s2p)

Thanks! I have a similar plan although I'll likley use the 9XL unless I can afford the extra $$ for the Lehner.

I like the smoothness of the quark. I have fried one and got a problem with the thing at first plug up on 6s lipo. It is like it is to much for the controller. I running a 80b as well. I think the 125b has no problem with 6s lipo

when you say that you had a problem with first plug up. was that with the 80b? or the 125b? Because i'm getting the 125b and plan on going to 6s later on.

I never tried a 125b. It was on the 80b. It only did it on 6s to.

Cool. I think I'm sold.

According to the item description on this site, both the 125B and 80B are supposed to take up to 18 cells or 6s lipo (~22v). That makes sense since both use very similar circuits and FETs; the 80B just uses few FETs for less current capability. However, both lipos and NiXX have higher voltages when fully charged, about 25v. Of course, that full charge wouldn't last long, but it's still higher at first. So, I hesitate to run things to their max ratings (even though I'm sure they figured in a safety margin). Personally, I'd go no higher than ~21v at full charge, which is 5s lipo or 15/16 cells, just to be sure.

As far as where I got the heatsink; it's just a piece of 1/8" thick aluminum angle bar acquired from Menards (like Home Depot, Lowe's, etc). I then attached some computer memory heatsinks to the top of that to give the heatsink a little more surface area for dissipation. The thick angle bar gives the ESC more thermal mass, which helps pull the heat away from the ESC itself.

So maybe i'd be better getting the 12020?

Yes and no. Yes because it handles almost as much current, no because it does not have a built-in LVC for Lipos, is not as smooth running, less programming options (out of the box - not sure what is possible with the BK software and PC cable), is not as easy to mount, and definitely needs to be padded since the circuits are right there under the shrinkwrap.

Since the Quark says it is rated for 6s/18 cells, you could use it and if it blows, it would be under warranty as it was being used as instructed.

Ok. I ordered the quark today. Does it NEED to be programmed by a PC?

Sounds like were back to the Quark!

Anybody interested in a like new T-Maxx? I'm dying to sell it so I can fund my Brushless system.

Try RCU i see tmaxx's go all the time down there.

send me a pm with details...question still stands! LOL

T-Maxx LIKE NEW For Sale!
 

More pics & details will be posted in another part of the forum. PM me for details.

No intent to hijack the post either, so forgive me.

Just saying, good luck selling a nitro on brushless forums! ;)

Thanks for the advice
 

Sylvester,

Thanks for the advice. I'll post it there.

The Quark is fully programmed stand-alone (meaning no PC). All you can program on the BK without a PC is the throttle endpoints and BEC on/off IIRC. You can check out Quarks manual here.

I forgot; you can program if you have reverse or not on the BL without a PC...

Not to confuse the issue here, but can you program the Quark by PC if you choose or is it done completely by the button on the Quark itself?

The Quark can not be programed by PC. Its only programed with the throtle stick shuffle.....and the button on the quark.

If it could be programed by PC it would be perfect. To me thats the only feature its lacking.

Oh Yea.... And breaks in reverse.

Man, no brakes in reverse, not very fond of this feature. Maybe quark can make somthing like the BK's have, "reverse brake" . If your going fast in reverse and tap the throttle can you say diff-muncher!

so when you go in reverse you can't brake? Wow, hmmmm, and i bought this controller.......arrrrgggggg!

Dont worry, if your a good driver its very easy to not go fast in reverse, than again just a tap of the throttle can set it off ;)

i should be fine. My Jato has NO reverse! so i'm getting used to not having it. today i was driving, hit a bush, started walking to it and then was like...wait a minute, i have reverse and tore ars out of there!

someone wanna tell me why i can't get more than 9 min of run time from ny new 16 cells? i have about 5 cycles thru them....
thanks! Since this thread has been totally off anyways, thought i would throw that in! i can't wait for the quark, hoping, hoping i don't have issues with it! I have only one person say good things about it...i mean, has had luck with it. wish there were more users!

Can't say anything about your runtimes with 16 cells, but how warm are the cells getting?

For me, I usually just have reverse disabled. IMO there's nothing wrong with just forward and brake. I'm somewhat partial though because I've had a problem with my MGM controller where it will switch into reverse while slowing down during a speed run!

How fast do you go in reverse anyway. Its just for backing out of trouble. Not for high speed driving. I say I wish it had it, but in all reality, I dont really miss it.

Just one of those little Quark Quirks:dft012:

Sometimes people go more than 5-10mph in reverse but once the throttle is tapped it flips, thats not good news for revo owners, atleast till we can use 8 spyder diffs. Than we will be kings of the hill muahahahha!

@Newuser- How high is the capacity of your batteries? How far do they charge? Only 5 cycles? Try to put in atleast 15 than report to us after. On my gp3300's i get 25 min bash times and 12-15 minute racing times.

can brakes be disabled?

Yes. Quark Manual

with my other 8 cells from mike, i get about 25 min to about 28 min, depends on how i drive. they get warm, but that's it....i think i should have more. the capacity is 3800 mah...i should be getting more foresure...any ideas? i have another thread on this too....just curious, i've never had this problem...will let you know how it goes...thanks guys!

Well, depending on the weight, current draw, and how many standing starts you do, that sounds about right. Think of it this way; a 3800mAh battery will be able to supply 30A for roughly 7.6 minutes. Basically, you multiply the capacity in Ah (3.8 in your case) by 60 minutes to get "amp-minutes". Then divide that number by how much runtime you are averaging to get your average current draw. You said you get 25ish minutes. That means your average current draw is only about 9 amps (3.8Ah*60min=228Am. 228Am/25minutes=9.12A). That's pretty low for a brushless motor considering 80-100+ amp peaks are not uncommon under heavy acceleration depending on motor wind, driving, weight, etc.

If I add a fan with a thermal patch to my 125B on the front and/or back, and not the heat sink strips, do you think it will help to cool it? I'm thinking about milling out a motherboard heat sink too, and using that fan. I heard the adhesive alone is $50.

does lipo packs increase speed too or just run time?im kinda new on electric and specially 1/8 or 1/10 bl set ups..i bought a quark 125 also,can i run my batts in series with this ESC? after i fried my mtroniks that i got used im afraid to even connect the batts when i get the new ESC..about the mtroniks idk what happened but when i got it, the seller made a y-connector so i can ran my batts in series making it run 12cells of ib3800s..aside from that i connected the esc to another y harness that connects also to the brake servo.as i was setting my th/br on the radio the esc started to sizzle..will those connections can cause this?can someone pls post a pic on how u run batteries in series?i have a pic also that ill post and pls tell me if its right..u may have seen my post on other forums but they were left unanswered.the seller told me the connectors are done right another friend said its good too but idk y i fried my esc?pls help thanks guys..

guys im sorry i thot i made a new thread ..