Another Quark Question part II
 

Ok, so i received it. A few Questions. How many sub c's can it handle first off. Second off, looking at this thing..do i need to pull a "jumper" to run a ubec? If so, where? And last, it has an on off switch, my ubec also has an on/off switch that I wired, can i use both? thanks guys!

18, no "jumper", and I have no clue....It would depend on what the switch on the esc does. If it only turns the BEC on like some, then it would do absolutely nothing I would think.

You actually need to pull the center wire on the plug that goes to the reciever. Its in the book that came with it. I actually thought that was pretty cheesy myself. But, its the only way to disable the internal BEC. Make sure you do it too. When I first got mine, I just pluged it up quick to bench test it on 4s and without even running it the thing got hot. The internal BEC is definately not meant for high cell counts.

Understandable Jhautz, what about the switch?

after reading the quark instructions , my guess is that the switch on the quark is for the controller... you need to unwire your switch on the ubec and just run from the on/off switch on the quark...you should be fine then...

The ESC uses a BEC no matter if you use it for your servos/Rx or not. If you don't use it (removing the red wire to the Rx), the internal BEC simply provides power to it's internal controller circuits. Those circuits hardly draw any amps so a linear BEC is OK. It's when the same BEC has to supply power to other devices that heat becomes a problem. For a linear regulator, power dissipation is calculated by (v_batt-6)*load_current. So if you are using 14.4v batteries and your servos draw 4A total, that's almost 34 watts the regulator has to dissipate on the same heatsink the FETs use. The switch simply cuts power either to (or from) the BEC to the internal circuits thereby shutting off the controller.

That's a lot of info BrianG, very intuitive, but the question still remains. and yes i RTFM, but what is the switch for? Something for programming the controller? then when you turn it off, it saves the prgramming, cool, but do you have to turn it on when you drive? TFM SUCKS! Any who, this is the first time you'll see me get frustrated guys! Only because nothing is in the language of Troy! ARRRRRGGGGG!!!! Also, what are the metal wraps on the wires for? can i remove then?

Lol, calm down before you give yourself a coronary! Simple answer: the switch shuts off the internal controller circuitry. It does not shut off the FETs though so a small amount of current will slowly drain the main batteries. And yes, you need the switch on to drive.

The metal wraps? You mean the ferrite cores? Those are to inhibit RF interference I would assume (they block high frequencies).

The ferrite cores, can they be removed? My esc didn't have something like that and ran fine. the problem that i'm having is that the receiver wires are wrapped around it and it shortens my length....i want to remove the one on the receiver wires so i can reach my receiver...thanks BrianG, the help is most appreciated!

Id leave the ferite things on there. I'm sure they put them on for a reason.

Just get an extender for the wires.

Like you I needed the extra length as well. So, I took them off and have had no adverse effects, but I made sure that all my electrics were installed far from each other to help prevent noise induction. If you take them off, just keep that in mind if odd things start happening.

My esc is only near the motor and a fan, but the wires are all in one line along the side of my gorilla chassis going into a receiver box, if the wires are all close, would that have any adverse effect? thanks BrianG!

There shouldn't be...

thanks guys!

Generally, you want to keep your signal wires away from any high power AC signal. The motor wires are what I consider high power AC. I would also keep Rx antenna wires away from these wires, especially AM systems (due to the way AM modulates its signal). If any low power wires (Tx/Rx, antenna) must run near high power signals, you can minimize any noise by arranging the wires so they run perpendicular to each other rather than parallel.

The quark motor switching frequency is 38kHz, but the signal frequency from the Rx is between 50 and 60Hz (20ms frequency with
~1ms to ~2ms "on" pulses). That is quite a difference in frequency and I assume the ESC would contain some type of bandpass filter to block spurious noise.

Basically, try it the way you have it odd stuff happening, rearrange them.

Ok. Now I have a new issue. How the XXXX do you prgran this thing? the book is in Korean, and the english is rubbish! Anywho, i am not getting beeps at all with this. What is a nice easy way to program this? I'm starting to think i should have just gotten the Micro, also, hearing that these all have heating issues, makes me worry...coronary is now in place...twitch..twitch, jerk jerk, oooo that hurts!

Lol, calm down and take a breather. Grab a beer or something. I don't know what manual you got in the package, but this is what I got. I posted an answer on your new programming question thread.

The heating issue you hear about is probably a non-issue for most people, but I am kind of anal about electronics getting hot. I get worked up when my computer CPU gets anywhere near 45 degrees C (113 F)! If it gets hot for you, add a fan or extra heatsink. Once you get it working right, you'll like the Quark better than the BKs. Besides, the BKs can get just as hot...

I had to print those off from the website. Mine came all in chinese/Japanese/korean? not sure, the only word i understood in it was OPTMO or whatever!
Anywho, all i want is normal throttle and reverse!

When you programed it did you put the red light by the green or amber light on? The one by the green is foward only with brake. The one on the amber side is reverse activated when throttle moved to neutrel. ( double pump method) You have the green instantous reverse only brake is drag brake. The amber is reverse applied after a delay.

When i pull the throttle, the yellow light comes on, reverse throttle, green light but no action. otherwise it blinks red....need to figure this out, gonna go back and read more once i get the proper instructions printed off on a color printer. the motor seems to run good CHC! thanks!

I was refering to when you program it. What light did you go by.If you did not program nothing but the throttle you won't have reverse.
PUll the throtle to maxx forward.turn on trans and esc push the button and move the trigger to maxx reverse release button. May have to hold for a few secs the button. when you set it up to a yellow consistant light push the button for reverse then cut off esc. you should have reverse.

thanks CHC!

There is more behind that but that would get you reverse. If you had told me I could have sent a book with the motor to you. I had an extra.

Great CHC! hehe! I have the book now, and i didn't have the controller quite yet. but all your help is great! thanks! so do i prgram basic, then the advanced?

That is what I did. I think you have to program some in basic before advanced.

got 'er done. it runs smooth as butter, just hot is all. wish i could figure this thing out. i hate temp issues. it could be almost anything!