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input gear trouble!
i'm using a gmaxx single speed converted emaxx tranny. i seemed to have thrown out the two pins that attach the input gear to the input shaft. how do i prevent this with my new input shaft and gear? thanks for any help!
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I don't have personal experience with this but I've seen people recommend to use a nail and bend over the ends. It is supposed to be stronger and quite cheap! :)
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hmmmmmmm? sounds a little ghetto, lol.
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I used one of my hex wrenches (can't remember which size though) It's a bit of a tight fit and may have to be carefully pounded in, but once it's in there just cut off the extra with a dremel if youve got one. Havn't had it break since and I've got alot of torque from the dual brushless.
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I did the same thing with a hex wrench, then added some JB Weld to make it solid and permanent.
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thanks for the suggestions, i'll try something today.
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I had the same problem, i drilled them out on a pillar drill and then put a M3 hex head nut and bolt through it just misses the gearbox casing as is superstrong
Cheers Adam |
sjcrss used a hex wrench too. if i break mine sometime, i will do that method...seems cleaner!
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I used a spook out of a bicycle rim I had laying around. I have had zero problems since. I broke another stock setup. I may see about the allen wrench trick. I wonder if I spot weld it if that would hold the pin in. :D
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i used the "needle" out of a tach-it gun. its like the stock pin but a lot stronger. thanks for the help everyone!
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CHC, good luck trying to spot weld a hardened allen wrench to I think the input gear is cast steel...( don't quote me)..but they are 2 different metals.....you could braze them as long as you used a braxing rod w/ flux around it...and a oxyacetylene torch to do it......
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and yes I just broke my original allen key fix from over 4yrs ago.... I broke the roll pins back when I first got my Ultramaxxed gears, thought of the allen key trick, and just broke that last weekend.....allready fixed and running again...
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if your using a mig welder, just take your time and you can actually take a drill bit and drill a little indentation where the pins come out, that way your spot weld has some penetration into the metal.. also don't run the welder to cold....might want it a little on the hot side...if you know what i mean...this way it will be a quick spot, and you should get a good spot weld...
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Yep. I have a mig. I got it for some body work on some 1;1 projects. Built a trailer with it to. Now it is making its way into the rc department. I let you know how it works out.
I think the thing that makes the pins fail is it has pressure tranfered from side to side from forward and reverse. |
that makes sense....just let us know how it works....if you have any questions about welding, don't hesitate to ask....I welded in high school and also in the Navy.....just practice on a scrap peice of metal, till you get a good feel of control for the spot weld.... and keep the amps mod. to a little high, but adj. accordingly..
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I cut me a few pins out some good stuff. I tacked welded them in on both sides.
Ground a little excess off for weight. I noticed while welding the gears was on fire. Was these gears coated with something. I hope I didn't do wrong by heating them to much. I find out if they hold or if they wear out now. |
Im not really sure what they where coated with CHC, But when I worked in a factory we used to oil heat treat the steel that needed to be extra hard, so I think if you cooked off some of the oil that might of been on it, you should be ok......I just recently oil heated my center shafts, for extra strength this week...and there is a slight residue on them ....even after iwipped them clean...so if they did some form of oil heat treat on them...then the oil penetrated the metal and will still be in there....does this help at all.......but thanks for the FYI about you welding the pin into place...
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i don't know which size nail to use. the nail i have leaves some play between the shaft and the gear. is that normal?
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The more play the more it will wear. I try to get them as tight as possible.
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i'm trying to pound a hex wrench through it right now, its super tight. seems like its hung up on the shaft though.
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If you have to pound it in. It should be tight enough.
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its to tight. the hex just bent! this is really pissing me off! a $1500 truck that i can't keep running. i might have to go to nitro like my friends!
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It is frustarting some days. You get nitro it won't break as much cause it may not start every time. :D
Besides it don't have the same torque curve. I used a drill bit I had laying around that I broke off. I can't recall the size. I used a hardened rod in the other. It is holding well so far. If you take the points off the hex it may fit a little tighter. |
Yea, I here ya about going back to nitro...I am selling mine cause I'm sick of the bull$hit. Just gonna spend the money from that on the electric truck to make it even better :D.
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i got it up and running! used a hex wrench and beat on it for 20 minutes, i think its tight enough now! its funny, two of my friends just got into nitro and are learning to drive a lightning pro rtr and a hellfire rtr. thats why i'm thinking of doing nitro. for racing its a blast with my friends. i'll probably grab another crt rtr, got one in my living room waiting for brushless.
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don't hate me to bad. i might need an exorcism because i bought a nitro today, lol. my friends were having to much fun without me. no worries though, i still have my g2r and my soon to be brushless crt project.:032:
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