1930/10 / 12020
 

Ok, i dropped in the 12020. this is all running hotter than my 9920 is. and my Quark ran hot. has to be the motor? Unless i wired the 12020 incorrectly?
You would think a bigger controller should not be heating up like this......what is up!

What's the ambient temperature like? if it's hot out then only a mild motor is not going to overheat the esc,that's when i'd run the 10xl and just have to run slower.I'm not running my stuff in the heatwave 'cause i know it'll just overheat.You still got the fan on there?

How is it running apart from the heat problem?Also how does the motor feel when you spin it by hand,it should be silky smooth and almost silent,not like a feigao/wanderer.

it's only 84 outside...i ran my 10xl in 93 degrees, the motor was a tad warm, but the controller was cool, the fan kept it cool. i'm running a bigger controller with a bigger fan, and it's getting hotter! the motor is smooth as silk...i'm leaning towards a bad motor though.

OK, so now my ubec is fried, my 12020 is fried. I never had this problem with my 9920/10xl. Nice, very nice!

Is there possibly a bad cell or solder joint? I had problems with my 9920 because of a questionable solder joint, and then because of bad batteries.

My 9920/7xl combo on my Supermaxx similar to yours, I would constantly overheat it seemed no matter what I did. I was running TP 6000mah GenIIs which I thought were nice batteries until I puffed one. Way better than my GP3000s.

Last week I just got new Poly RC 20C 5000mah 2s1p packs, and now everything runs super fast and fairly cool! 99f on the fets and 135 on the motor, batteries only got to 83f! This was after 20 minutes on the track, and after a recharge same temps doing speedruns/wheelies down the street.

I do run a fan on the esc, and the rc-monster heatsink on the motor. 14/51 with UE diffs and 40 series mashers.

I would think the 1930 would run even cooler than the 7XL because it's more efficient, I want to try a 1950 for that reason.

Good luck getting it worked out...$$$$ --> at least it's priceless when everything's running right, so much fun!!

How the heck did you fry your UBEC??

Well, i didn't start having these problems unitl i put the 1930/10t in....makes me wonder! i put the 10xl 9920 back in, NO PROBLEMS AT ALL.

Maybe your screws are going in to far?? Check that. It could cause this if the screws are touching the windings. You shoulda tried the Quark on the 10XL.

Yep. I'd hate to think i bought a BUM motor! Also, in the lehner, if you look inside the screw holes, you can see if it's touching the black plate or not. i have checked this several times, over and over! And, now that i had a chance to open the motor up at full speed(if it could ever get there!), it glitches, like it only goes to a certain rpm and immediately stops! like boom, just like that and kicks the motor wires right out the back of the motor with sparks!!! I'm not saying anymore than i have already, but after 685.00 dollars later, I'm not a very happy camper.
But i will ask this, i stuck a receiver pack in my rx to test the channels, all work fine and the servo is fine. i hooked up my 10xl with the 12020 and it didn't seem to heat up, but before i took out the 1930, it did puff up my capacitors(not to mention fried my ubec too) a tad bit on the 12020. so you guys think the esc will be fine?

my micro did that(36120) and it's got diddly squat to do with the motor,it's the controller.It's like it only runs to a certain rpm them bamm,it cuts power to the motor.(mine would jump a couple inches on the bench including a heavy motor mount)It's either a loss of phase or it's in some reduced rpm mode or something.the reason it's not doing it with the 10 xl is it doesn't pull many revs so it's not hitting this ceiling.

I tried to program mine with the cable( apparently you need some old commadore64 or something to do this:005: ) and that's when some component smoked.Since you're able to program yours i'd go do that,it seems pot luck what settings they arrive in and you can't proghram them on a modern laptop that uses windows XP and USBs.

Ok, what rpms would a 1930/10t on 16 cells pull?

kv is 2090,so that's like 40,000 rpm on 16 cells.The motor would be able to pull alot more unless is seriously stuffed internally,if the bearings sound good and it feels OK,and you don't have more than about 2.5mm of thread into it,and there's no backlash or anything then i very much doubt the motor is the problem.

other than heating up your escs that is,it's a hot motor on 16cells compared to a 10xl,alot faster certainly.

Edit;is it a 12020 warrior or a 20120 micro? i was thinking it's a micro.

Ok, i was getting back lash, that's what i'm saying, it was so bad that the motor wires from the controller to the motor would arc and get kicked out of the motor. 12020 warrior.

NewEuser, have you tried the 1930 with the 9920? After having problems with it on 2 ESC's, I might be scared to try it though :005::005:.

I was meaning play between the bearings,all my 19 series were shimmed perfectly from the factory.

Is the motor new? ,if it's used it may well be damaged from what you describe,i definately wouldn't run it if it does that.hopefully hasn't killed your esc aswell.Man you're having some bad luck at the moment,if the motor is the culprit then hopefully the quark and BK are OK atleast.

Huh?

He means the 9920 i think,funny though,motors don't run each other too well:005:

i wouldn't try it though,sounds like a short or something in the motor.

Well i sent the quark back :o( thinking it was the prob, i ran the 12020 with the 10xl, and all it does is stutter, put the 9920 back in, seems good again so far! same set up i started with before the lehner! ALL I CAN SAY IS 685.00 and back to start! I'm a little TICKED?!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?! yeah a little! I'm sure the 12020 is gone, but i think that the quark may be ok....The motor was used, and the bearings seemed fine, but the back lash i found...it's f'n terrible..read above for the description for it!

OK, after doing a few runs, my old system runs like a dream as usual. There's the answer folks.

What's the answer?

running the 9920 with a 10xl...

Why would going to a 9920 from a 12020 or 125B be the answer? That's odd.

The answer is that his 1930 is the problem.

Yep, thats the whole reason. The motor was the problem which is why the Qaurk was getting so hot, but i don't think the Quark was fried, but i think 12020 may have been a bad esc. it never had mid range and it fried my ubec. so i put the 10xl in and the 9920, and everything is back to where i started! ARRRRGGGGGG! The whole idea was to have a better system, but now i just have the same as i was running.

The 1930 came from me. I had it on a 7020 on a flm maxx. I ran the motor about 6 packs before the esc smoked the capacitors but still worked. I could get 20 mins of consistant run time with it. It would over heat the esc if run hard.

Unfortunately i couldn't get two min out of it...It's all good, nop hard feelings...I would do it again though CHC, you are an all right guy!

I would do an edit, but this needs to be said by itself.
I was never mad at CHC, he is an outstanding gentleman and is word worthy, and trust worthy. It was the sitch that was frustrating. Just needed to clear that! I hope you guys understood that!

The only thing I can think of is. When I had it on the 80b quark and it fried it surged the motor and messed it up. I never ran it after that. I think it may be covered under warranty. I liked that motor to.

No problem neweuser. It is frustrating for both of us. I have no problems working with you.

Thanks CHC. Let me know what you find out. Thanks guys

looks like you're rubbing off on me, neweuser. i'm having to buy controllers until one works. i'm trying the 125b now! have you sent the 12020 back yet?

it was sent today...Mike said it should be under warranty! let's hope!

Does any one know of a way to check the motor out to see if it is bad?
Would the ohms be off in the motor if it is? Just curious to see if it is bad or not.