Interested Electric Newbie...
 

Ok, I've been in the hobby for about 6 years now... The only electric that I own is a stock Traxxas Rustler, which hasn't been ran for sometime. I have a Traxxas Revo that is powered by an RB Concepts C6BB MSC .21. So I am looking for power, and speed. An Ofna Hyper 7 PBS 1/8 Buggy powered by an RB Concepts S7 II .21. Traxxas T-Maxx, Nitro 4-Tec and Thunder Tiger Raptor 30 V2 Nitro Helicopter. I am looking for my next r/c to build/purchase and I am really contemplating an electric Revo. But I have no clue where to begin with this one... I am wanting a good setup that will keep me impressed with its speeds. But I don't want to break the bank nor have low run times. What would be a better way for me to go. Brushless or Brushed? Then batteries Nimhs, or Li-Pos? Chargers... Like I said, I am lost when it comes to electrics. Where do I start.

Brushless of course, faster and longer runtimes.

As for batteries, NIMH's will be fine but if you want to save the weight and get more runtime, Lipo's would be good.

On the motor/ESC side of things, a 9XL with a Quark 125B or a Warrior 12020 would do nicely and get that revo goin'! All 3 available from here!

Maybe I am just retarded but I can't seem to find them, where can I buy those on here? Gorillamaxx.com?

Here ya go.

http://www.rc-monster.com/categories.php?cat=9

Click motors and look for the BK/Fiegao/Nemesis XL motor and you can chosse your wind

Click Controllers and you will see the Quark 125B and Warrior 12020 about one third of the way down the page.

Mike sells a Revo Electric rolling chassis too, along with the G2R Electric Chassis. Look under New stuff.

How reliable are those motors, what kind of speeds are those capable of pulling. Why are they so much cheaper than the other motors?

The Lehner motors run a bit cooler and are slightly more powerful, i'm un-sure why the huge price difference. My E-Maxx has a 9XL in it, and on 18 cells it could easily pull over 50MPH and the front end hops around like a kangaroo. Reliable, well it's electric, turn it on and go.

The Feigao motors com straight from China. That's why they are cheaper. Still a good motor but the lehner's are the best. Better bearings for one and probably better magnets too. US labor vs. China labor.
Edit: IMOThe best setup on a cheap budget is the BK9920 and the Figao XL motor. The XL runs a bit cooler and has more low end power. The lower the wind the more spped ( and possibly heat)with the same batts. If you are thinking of going to Lipo's the a higher wind in the motor would get you longer run times with good speed. On the BL motors the rpm is per volt. 2000 rpm with 20v would =40000 rpms. You want to stay right around 35000-40000 for your setup. So you need to figure out what batts you are going to run first. NICad are O.K.Nimh are good. Lipo's are better (more voltage and lighter)but they do have some down sides to them. Do some research to find out what batteries are best for youand start there.

Lehners are German :027: I think they say LMT on them... "Lehner Motoren Technik"

Thanks Darren. I guess it's true. You do learn something new everyday.A fix to my previous post US labor vs China labor should have been German labor vs China labor. Sorry for the mixup/ignorance on my part.It will not happen again. I'm going home now with my head hung low.

You're lucky I don't sue! :005:

Sorry for the thread hijack, HummerMan, anything else you wanna know about your possible future truck build? :p

The difference with the LMT and the Feigao, Wanderers, ect. is that the LMT's are hand built by a person instead of a machine, they have segmented magnets (smoother, thus less cogging), and they are not pressed together. THere are other differences but those are the main ones.

It seems that I need to do more research before replying.
Thanks for cleaning up after me today Squee.

No problem :p.

Ok, I know this is an old post... But I started it LOL. Ok after seeing the article in RC Driver my interest has been boosted a ton... Anyways, I am thinking that I will end up going Li-Pos, but like I said, I am a electric newbie. What is a good charger, that will last me, but won't break my piggy bank? I believe that I am going to go with the Feigao 8L... For the ESC, I see that Darren reccomended the Quark 125B, and RC Driver used the 125A... Whats the difference? Are the batteries that were in the mag, Two Maxamps 8000mAh LiPos good? What kind of life do they have, not run times, overall life? This will definately be a project for the long haul, since I can't just drop a grand... But there are days where Nitro can just piss you off, and having an Electric Revo to make all the other guys cry would just be insane. I am sorry for all my pathetic questions, but I am very interested in going back to electric, not completely though...

A good yet cheap charger is the Duratrax ICE, it can charge LIPO and Ni-mh, so thats a big plus. The only thing is it requires a power supply, what I would do is go to a computer store and buy a used one for $5 and then use that. Also theres no difference between 125a and 125b besides 125b being the right name. The maxamps 8000mah would give you very good run times, I currently use 3300s and get a pretty good run time so 8000mah should give a very good run time.

so your doing a revo conversion, and for lipos go to www.rc-monster.com and look under batteies, lots of lipo selecion now aswell as NiMh. use the gorilla maxx revo chassis.

why cant you run a 8-9XL on the revo using a quark 125B? wouldn't it be mutch cooler then an 8L IMO????

Ah, now I am getting confused LOL... How long will that charger take to charge these packs?

well i depends at how many amps your charger can charge at, the duratrax ICE charges up at about 5 Amps+ I think and it might take you bout 30+ mins a battery. (8000MaH).

ICE does 8 amps max... it drops closer to 7 amps for a 4s pack.

Lipos always take about an hour to charge, (actually longer than that) doesn't matter how big the battery is. That's because you are not supposed to charge them at more than 1c, or 1x the capacity of the battery.

So the 8000 packs (8 amp hour) can be charged at 8 amps which will take one hour. Same for a little 1200mah pack... charge at 1.2 amps, etc. A battery is not usually completely dead so it won't need 100% capacity charged back to it (only 75% dead would mean 45 min to charge, etc)...

...but it also takes extra time at the end of the charge to top off the battery because the charger will slowly ramp down the current once it hits 4.2v per cell until the current is zero. This stage takes a while... never really tracked how long.

You don't HAVE to wait for it to do that, but that's when it's FULLY charged. You would give up a few mah but save a lot of time if you are waiting to use the battery, and just stopped the charge when it starts dropping the current.

Depending on the type/quality of the battery glassdoctor. Some lipo's take 2C, which will shorten the lifespan a bit, but i doubt if you notice it.

the difference between the LMT motors and the feigao/wanderer motors is that they use segmented magnets, like Squee says.

the partitial load of these motors is better because of this segmented magnets. This is great, becuase you don't run your car on WOT whole the time.

According to the person behind Lehner, the motors are most efficient at about 70-75 percent of their load. above that, you get more speed, but in this last 25-30 percent the motor heats up the most.

True... several of the latest cells have been charged at 2-3c succesfully.

But you need to really know what you are doing with that, and accept the possibility that it may have some adverse effect, like shortened batt life etc.

I may try it sometime with a balance/charger setup.

BTW, not to hijack... but I fried my ICE charger and am wondering if I should try a different one? Thers's nothing wrong with the ICE (it was my fault) and I had planned on getting a second ICE. I'm jsut wondering what ya'll like?

I use a E-Station 701 and love it. 27 cells NiMh, 8S LiPo at up to 8 amps, and Pb cells as well. Plus, with a special type on tap, you can plug it into the charger so it displays the voltage of each individual cell on the screen. The temp. probe is nice to.

Is that sold here too?

No, Mike can't get the E-Stations yet. I got mine from http://www.truerc.com

hmmm now i want to build 1 too.

What, cause I'm building one LOL? Anyways, I'm starting a new job that pays much more. So my build will be started soon. You guys running stock diffs, if not what ones?

LMAO ive been looking around and they look so good!!!!! I want one now:024: