Problem with my 380c
 

hi all,
ive got a problem with my 380c 7t motor. i can run it for a bit, but when it hits a bump its stops and doesnt move. i wiggle the motor wires and it works again (sometimes) have i damaged one of the wires in the motor? as its not my soldering, as none of the wires are loose wheree ive soldered them.
thanks!
SB

Does your esc stay on the whole time? Maybe it's really bad cogging. Otherwise I can't think of anything other than it being the motor connection that's the problem.

Make sure it is not the solder where the wire and esc are. I have seen one of these come loose.

I had the same problem and thought it was my motor wires as well. Turns out it was a battery bar loose.

speedy- i take it that the steering won't work if the esc isnt on? (im not using an rx pack) and the steering works when the motor doesnt

the solder joints are not loose. i had that problem at first, but there all not loose now. i dunno what else it cold be other than the motor wires to be honest.

Then I can't help you. Does the motor work again if you spin the wheels a little by hand?

Check to make sure the motor wires are not shorting out on the motor body. Some of the feigao motors have had that problem( I think that they were the 540s). There should be heat shrink around the wires right there.

i cant take a proper look at the moment, but i remember being able to see some of the copper wire going into the motor (no heatshrink on one of them) i will check them all later when i get someone to open the gararge (being 14 and small is kinda annoying lol i cant reach the top of the door to push it in)
if i find more than one will i have to send it into mike?

right i had a look at it. what i could see without taking off what the red arrow in the pic below is pointing too i could see no wires without heatshrink all the way (i could only see the red wire where the black heatshrink had moved up a bit, but not the others)
heres the pic:
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...sher/motor.jpg

I would pull the motor and check all of the wires as best as you can. If the blak heat shrink moved up then that could be a likely problem spot.Hopefully somebody will chime in that knows how to remove the rear endbell. That way you could get a better look and fix if there is a problem. If you have an Ohm meter you could check if there is a short between the wires and motor. That would be the easiest way without taking everything apart.

i dont have an ohm meter, and i tried removing the rear endbell, vut when ive unscewed the grub screw, it doesnt want to come off? im also going to let my dad re solder it next time i go to his house. if someone tells me how to take the endbell off i will have a look at the wires properly.

The endbells are threaded on, so you have to twist them to get them off.

So did you check the battery bars? I had the same problem, would move the motor wires and it would go for a minute then stop. Over and over again. Took me several hours to find the problem because the bar wasn't completely broken loose.

i cant check the bars, as my battery packs have that shrink covering that covers the whole battery pack, and if it was the battery, the steering would stop, and it never does. it always works. i will unscrew the endbell tomorrow and check the motor wires (its 11pm my time) i got it to work a bit though. ive zip tied the wires to the chassis and it seems to work now. i will keep testing it tomorrow to see if it handles bumps.

What esc are you running?

If the battery bar is loose, then you'd still get steering. A steering servo uses about 2-3amps max., which a loose solder joint can easily provide. But when your motor is trying to draw 30+amps, then a loose solder joint will show itself. I'm not saying that it is a loose solder joint, just pointing out that like squee said, it's a possibility. If you have any other battery(s) to try out, then you can eliminate the battery as the problem.

Yup. My servo still worked as well. Like I said, its just a possibility.

Warrior 7020.

heres a pic of the inside of the motor
http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y26...r/DSC00258.jpg
if you ca'nt see it peoperly, the green wire has not got as much heatshrink on it as the other 2 (not as far down) ive tried it with many battery packs before i posted it here, and it still did the same thing.

Take some heat shrink and wrap her up and see. Have you also checked the wries going into the esc?

Did you check the esc wires from the motor to the board?
My bros esc lost it right at the board. It was simaliar problems to yours.
It was the 7020 as well.

Is there and echo in here? LOL

to check do i just lift up the bit of plastic covering the goes around the wires (if you dont know what i mean, the black covering that surrounds the wires that go into the esc) i'll have a look at it in a mo.

None of the wires from the esc are loose. i dunno what it could be now.

gotta be a losse batt bar like squee said, or your motor connections

neweuser, it can't be that.

I also had this happen to me agian, and it was a motor connection. It also didn't seem loose, but after resoldering all 3, it was fixed...

Superbasher, I would remove the old heat shrink and then heat shrink each individual wire first and heat shrink all three together right were it goes through the motor case.That gives you double protection on your wires. Try testing it in your hands before puttingh it all back together. Simulate a bump on each item to find out exactly which one is having a problem. Let us know from there and we probably can help out some more. Hopefully that fixes your problem and you can start bashing again if you can get back into the garage.lol It sounds like you and I are the only ones that use a stick pack on this forum. With all of the battery bar problems we might be the only smart ones.
Edit: Resolder your motor wires while it is apart. After reading your first thread again that very well could be your problem. Only do one thing at a time so you know what the fix was.It takes a little longer but could save a ton of time in the future if you,or any of us, ever have this problem again. And get yourself a ladder

right.
i cant re shrink wrap the wires, as i dont have any, and it doesnt seem to 'cut out' now, it just has a persistent problem. i hardwired it (soldered ech wire end to end instead of a connector) and when i hit the throttle, it stutters, and makes an ascending noise from the motor, ans sometimes it onoly will move for a bit of throttle. does this mean anything?
lol go4gold i guess we are the only ones with shotgun-style packs. i bought them like that cause i thought the battery bars would give me a shock :005: lol

You can get heat shrink from Radio Shack.Put the rear endbell back on and see if it starts to cut out again. I wouldnt worry about getting shocked from the battery bars if you wanted to go that way.7.2v or 8.4v dc isn't going to do anything to you. I know you've tongue tested 9v batteries before so don't worry about 7.2v batteries.
It doesn't cut out now? are you bench testing it or have you put it all back together? Did you try and reprogram you esc before you tried running it again? I run the stick packs cause that is what my truck came with when I bought it from a friend and I'm to cheap to buy more batteries if mine are still working O.K. besides i just bash my truck into everything on the street/sidewalk no racing for me yet.

no it doesnt cut out now. i bench tested it, and when i took it out it drove till about 1/8th throttle and started to stutter which i described in my last post.
oh yeah im in the UK so no radio shack for me lol. i think the equivalent is called maplin

Kinda sound like cogging at low speeds. Is it still jerky if you are going faster than5 kilometers per hour? O.K. you can get some heat shrink at Maplin. Your english is very good. I would have never thought you were from the UK. I know they speak english over there but it does'nt always translate the same. Kinda like listening to a southerner when your from New York. Can't barely understand them when the're talking.Erl is one busy fella cause they put him in their engines instead of oil(erl) like the rest of us(ya'll).

i dont think i can get it past 5km per hour as the power seems to get cut from the motor and it stops, and if i keep on the throttle, it makes that ascending noise.
oh yeah about my english, ive been on another mostly american forum for just over a year, so my online language is a bit north american, if you get what i mean.

ok,
ive re soldered it, and it works now, just i think it is cogging badly. i have to push it with my foot to get it to move. should i go up or down a tooth on the pinion. at the moment it is geared 15/87

ARGH FOR GODS SAKE!!!!!
i emailed mike, and he told me to try a reciever pack. i tried the one from my nitro buggy and it didnt fit properly, and its bent the little bars that go into the plug :035:
why isnt anything going right for me!!!!!!!!!! ARGH!!!!!!!!