i think im going to build a bl mt
 

ok since i won a quark 125b esc in the raffle at the rc monster bash i think im going to use it to build a e-maxx. i plan on picking up a roller off ebay. i just have a few questions as to what would be good to use as far as motors and batteries (i think i want to go li-po so i will need a charger as well). also any suggestions for must have upgrades. im going to end up with a gorilla maxx chassis. i know that much. the mts at the race just looked so cool i had to make one. im trying to run a little buget concious but i will spend what i have to in order to get some good equiptment.

what are you planning to do with this truck,? is its a basher or racer.

if you going to bash with the g-maxx it would be great to raise the hight. If a basher then an flm chassis.(both have great performance)
i assume your new to the fourms right?

yes i am new to these forums. oh and i should have specified this is going to mainly be a racer. im sure it will be bashed but not over anything where i will need much ground clearance. my little 1/10 scale buggy almost never gets hung up where i am.

im not sure if this will make any differance but i have a tmaxx that i am willing to use for parts and stuff

It may not be worth getting a roller,there's lots of t-maxx 3.3s being chopped right now and it's relatively cheap to put front and rear ends together,or if you don't need the t-maxx then why not use that as a donor and sell the rest.Also because the strobe slipper is discontinued it may be better not to use the e-maxx transmission and wait for Mike's transmission which uses the revo slipper.

if a racer, and going to blow alot of money it would be better not to buy a roller and start from scratch by buying the racer pro type 3 suspension. or g3 race suspension. along with the other nessessities,(bulk head difs cvds ect..)

"gustave, mike is making a tranny with a revo slipper? will it fit the four holes in the g-maxx or stock chassis?"

The slipperential will bolt up to the four holes but no motor mount. That is the problem. I think the 3.3 stuff would be nice if you go that way. You can get a emaxx trans and put the tmaxx stuff on a gorilla chassis.

I would go with the Slipperential Mike is coming out with, the Integy Type 3 Pro, FLM hybrid bulkless, with a G2 CF chassis, Proline Powerstroke shocks and a UE Gen 4 servo saver. Thats the main things anyway.

ok so in light of that fact i think i will just keep my t-maxx and just build this car out of hopups. alright so this is what im thinking so far. g-maxx chassis. flm front/rear bulkhead combo. what 1/8 diffs/ pinion do i use? integy type3 suspension. a futaba s9351 servo. a feigao 540 9l motor. maxapms 4000 mah li-poly packs(x2) a duratrax ice charger. and the somehow new in box roller i found on ebay. (i would end up saving money on shafts and tranny parts if i bought it) and that gives me a grand total of $1100. im sure there will be other stuff also but this is what im figuring i will need to get started.

so it the sliperential going to be like a center diff and eliminate the need for a tranny? and also what diffs would work in the hybrid tranny cases?

The slipperential is a center diff with a pinion above it on a shaft that is attached to a Revo slipper to eliminate the tranny and give the performance of a center diff and the bennifits of having a slipper. And yes, it completely does away with the tranny. As for diffs in the front and rear, I would go with the Hot Bodies Lightning diffs.

When will the "Slipperential" debut?

yea any idea on price too. i guess i will get a chassis as my first part pretty soon. it will probably be 6 months before it is done. like my buggy i bought stuff when i had money and it wound up being 6 months.

My guess is it will be a month or more. Not really sure.

gives me plenty of time to save then.

@leroy;

the motorplate is a fact already.

the slipperential will be sweet.

If you want a racer, there really is no need for aluminum arms.

here is what i use on my lightweight e-maxx;

gmaxx cf chassis with ext.
stock arms
3.3 bulks, modified to take some beating, and saving weight
gmaxx singlespeed+steel idler/stock motormount.
stock driveshafts in the front, UE cvd's in the rear
7075 maxximizer cups
integy diffcases
4 bigbore shocks, with RPM heavy shock pistons
dace wingmount shocktowers (thanks RChippie)
HPI dirtbonz tires on proline offset dishrims

I use it on 12-14 cells, so far the motors i have tested are the 7XL, 9L and basic XL2400.

the 9L gets quite hot on 12 cells allready. the XL2400 spools up very, very quick and is agile on 3S lipo allready. the 7XL has got tons of torque.

With the money saved on not buying the aluminum, you better invest in a 1930 motor, which would be the best for a lightweight racer.

the only reason i want the integy suspension is because it has way more adjustments. also would it be better for me to get two 2s 4000 mah packs and wire them in parallel or get a 4s 3700?

2S won't be enough for a MT...Unless you mean series not parallel. I would shoot for more like 6000+mah 3S packs.

ooops yup i did mean series. i just saw the 4000 maxamps packs and 120 for two of them isn't too bad. so i was just going to pick up two of those. just to start out with. i will probably pick up some higher mah packs later on down the line. i was also planning on using a plettenberg maxximum motor.

I wouldn't use a Maxximum. Go with something like a Nue motor, Lehner, or even a XL Feigao.

why whats wrong with the maxximum?

First off it is a 4 pole motor and requires a controller that can handle a 4 pole motor, second it is fairly hard on the controller because the shaft takes alot to move by hand (a regular BL motor is super easy), and third, for the price, I think there pretty expensive and highly overrated. Serum had one (a BigMaxximum actually) and he sold it and used a Feigao XL instead I believe.

so what would be better between a neu and a lehner. and which model.

It looks like the Neu 1500 series would be the way to go. Probably the 1521/1.5D w/ 1860rpm/volt $300list

The Lehner 1940 & 1950 series are also very very good. I do not know which is the better of the two (Neumotor vs Lehner). The Lehner is more widely accepted and used from what I've seen.

Just my .02 on the issue.

i was just looking and neu motors are very hard to find. i know they are on neu's website but im sure they can be found somewhere else for less than 300 dollars. i was shooting for 200 or less on a motor (the plettenberg was already pushing the limit at 210) . i think i will just go with the feigao 9 or 8xl for now. i was just looking at the specs and the 9xl has a kv of 1853

Well Mike should have some Nue motors in very soon. So look in the store soon. Also, Mike said that he likes the Nue motors better than the Lehners since there cheaper and more efficient.

cool i will keep my eye out on the site for them. if it will be cheaper then a lenher then i will probably go with that.