stock lightning diffs question
 

Hi guys, I just received a pair of new lightning diffs, and i wondered if it was normal that they are pretty difficult to turn with hands... I imagine that it's due to the oil diff that is cold... Am i right?
Or do I have to open the diff cups to put a lighter diff oil on it?
Can someone help me please?
All thanks,
Fab.

just leave them alone - unless your going to change diff oil for a reason - a little tight is better than a little loose - they will break in - good luck...

The diffoil should be silicone, which isn't affected much by temperature.

ok thanks, my old diffs were completely untightened, cause i run 80% asphalt and pavement... i will see what will be the behaviour of my car...
and yes if it's some silicon oil it can not be affected by temp... that's right Serum, I forgot that fact...
again i will let you know how it runs... i build a new E-maxx actually, from my old one that i shew here 2 weeks ago...

ok i mounted the diffs into the hybrid bulks, but i discovered that i needed to change the lateral cups??? My cvd's are 4 or 5mm too short for the lightning diff cups...
I have the MIP cups that come with the wide shiny cvd's, and i wonder how to make them fit these diffs...

any advise???

please i need help to finish my car, that's the only thing that make me crasy... i run wide RPM arms and MIP wide cvd... what's wrong with my config??? What diff cups to use on the lightning diffs???
thanks in advance...
Fab.

Use the ones you have. Scew in the pillow balls as much as you can. Got a picture?

either MIP or UE cvd's should work. Perhaps your pivotballs are out too far, like Squee mentioned.

stay cool bro.. :p

here is a pic of my problem:
http://www.chakaboum.com/emaxx/P1030613.JPG

in that pic my pivotballs are tightened at max... the cups seem to bee too short... where does the length problem come from???? that makes me crasy... 200$ of parts and it doesn't work at the end... :(

i didn't found any idea about how to use my MIP cups on these diffs... Lightning cups don't have any screw...

You are sure those are MIP cvd's? they don't use a boot like that. The MIP shaft itself is the boot.

I doubt if these are MIP cvd's.

However, there is a way you can make it work;

cut off a piece of your RPM arms, and drill the holes deeper if needed. Or buy UE or MIP cvd's

those are not MIP but they are the same length... pic was taken before i tried to mount the MIP ones...
Serum, you're right, i will try to short my arms about 3/4mm each...

Keep in mind, you will probably bend a CVD or 2 with RPM arms.

I never heard of an issue like this when the MIP cvd's are used?

They look more like a rd logic which is a touch shorter than mip or ue. The cups makes up the difference.

yes you all right, the MIP cvd's are at the right legth... i made a mistake in measuring... shame on me again, it's really hard to enter the race word... :(

ack!
 

I've have this same problem using MIP shiny CVDs, FLM Hybrid bulks, and Flextek arms. The CVD is just too short and falls out of the diff cup at either end of the suspension travel.

I'm hoping that UE CVDs correct this problem - but throwing away the cash the MIPs cost me sort of hurts.

Can you please shoot a picture of your problem/cvd?

MIP's should work.

You can use a spacer behind the wheelshaft of the cvd, to get it a bit closer.

my MIP cvd's work perfectly, i just made a mistake in measuring a RDlogic cvd, that is too short to fit Lightning diff cups... Mip is a perfect fit for these cups... sorry for having disturb you with this false problem... what diffs do you use Belligerentruth ?

hmm
 

I'm glad it's resolved for you. I'm currently on holiday so can't get a picture. I'm using the Lightning diffs as well but I'm using flextek arms, which I believe are a few mm longer then stock which is adding to the problem.

Honestly I think it's less of a headache to just get the UE CVDs to anyone who hasn't purchased them yet as the FLM bulks are a couple mm more narrow then stock.

~BT

If bulks are narrow, they bring the arms closer to the diff.

...
 

Perhaps it could be worded better, it is likely some element to the FLM bulks (the a-arm mounting holes could be further from the diff housing, which would increase the length from diff cup to knuckle) Regardless I was just quoting Mike (owner of Rc-Monster) as to the reason for the poor fit.

I think it's a matter of semantics - to simplify: the shape and design of the bulks increases the distance the CVD must travel to get to the diff cup.

~BT

Well, i just measured them, both stock and FLM's..

there is a .16mm difference on both sides. But that might as well be the difference between the gmaxx skid and the GA skid.

so this difference is neglectable.

I think you need to search for your answer. You are sure it are the MIP shafts? and like i said, you can use a spacer between the bearing and the wheelshaft.

Can you measure the length of the flextek arms? (OD)

Will do
 

Serum,

Im on vacation with the family currently for another week or so - I will do the measurement when I get back.

And about the narrowness - I never measured myself, I was just relating what Mike told me might be causing the problem.

I mean - it's all moot to me personally because (this being my first truck ever) I sort of... overdid it... on the loctite on the MIP CVDs so have sort of assumed those as being ruined.

...That being said I will gladdly do some measurements and take some pictures when I get home in the interest of helping others who might run into a similiar problem in the future.

~BT