Neu motors
 

I want to start a thread about these motors. I just got one to try in my buggy and truggy, and I will post some results when I get some wheel time.

Mine is a 1512 1.5Y

The initial brief test run showed the motor to run very cool, but we'll see what happens with a full run... bashing and on the track.

One FYI about the motors I picked up from the info that came with it... the smooth non-finned can motors apparently have a non-standard mounting screw spacing.

The finned cans have a standard screw hole spacing, but the smoothies have a smaller spacing... I think it was 25.2mm vs 22mm.

I don't have the sheet with me. I will correct that if it's wrong...

Can you post some pics of the motor? I'd like to see how open the design is on both ends.

Sure... I won't be able to until late tonight/tomorrow morning though.

Is it open on both end or just one?

I got one coming to me as well. I want to test it in a gmaxx.

Will these motors work with a BK warrior 9920 or a shulze 18.97 ?.

open on both ends. I'll go get some pics now......

They won't work on bk but will on the schulze. They are 4 pole motors.

Thank's leroy:027: .

It work with the quark as well. I know you don't have one hippie. You may get one one day. Just covering it just in case others interested. :D

that really sucks for us BK owners.......maybe we should contact BK & ask them if they can do a software update....so they can be run on these motors as well....just a thought

Here are pics of the front and rear. The front has four big holes and the rear has five smaller holes, plus the three wires.

I going to try to make a cover for the holes. I don't like dirt going in my motor. Sounds like trouble. Especially if you get any iron it will go right to the magnet. Sounds kind of diaster in the making.

I just plan to cover them with electrical tape.

Hmmm, I'm not too keen on the holes, although I'm sure they help with cooling. I think I might stick with my original LMT plan...

The lmt are great motors. If mike can get the guys to close the ends up.
I think these may be some good motors as well. I have to hold total judge
ment until it gets here.

I don't see them being that big of an issue unless you are a real mud driver, or light dust perhaps. I'm sure it would not be that hard to cover anywho. To have a motor with hardly any heat issues in any case would be worth the little work it would take to cover them.

I would simply make a CF or lexan cover. The back even has holes to use to mount the cover.

The back has threaded holes? That makes fabricating a cover much easier!

How is the endbell retained? By screws or glue or something else?

It sure looks like it...

Sorry guys, there are no threaded holes in the back even though it looks like it. :)

I made little plastic "nuts" that fit tight into the motor holes. So the bracket helps secure the motor so it can't move around, but it's not really bolted to the motor. The brace just slips into the motor holes basicly. It was made for my C50 can which does have screws on both end of the can, and my 540C feigao which I drilled and tapped holes in the rear endbell.

That seemed like the slickest way to get some support for the rear of the motor without drilling holes or making a fancy motor brace.

Won't adding a cover add to heat issues and defeat the purpose? Maybe they're not an issue -- where I run right now the dirt is like powder it's so dry. Gets all over everything, but maybe as long as the bearings are smooth and clean, just blowing air through the can from time to time would take care of dust inside.

I really like the look of that motor with the fins and all, and the price seems nice for the specs. When are the motors coming?

I talked to RCM Mike about these motors last week. He has been running one for a while and made cover for his from piece of lexan from an old body. I asked him the same thing about blocking the holes and reducing airflow causing heat issues and he said that the motor is so efficient, there are no heat issues to worry about.


BTW.. They just went up on the site. Still all listed as out of stock though.

I chatted to mike about them as well.
He has no heating issues what so ever.
The motor even on a hard run for 30 mins only runs in the 130s or so.
I can live with that. Especially he running in 90 + temps to.

how much difference between the 1515 and the 1512 versions of this motor. Besides the $55 and the .3 inches in length.

How will these compare to the feigaos. the 1519 = feigao XL can and the 1512 = feigao L can? Sorry to compare it to Feigao, but its a easy point of reference that I an most are familiar with. I know they are much more efficient, I'm asking more allong the lines of power and feel.

The 1515 is like a 1950 and the 1512 is like a 1940. But you got the right idea. Just a little shorter rotor.

Yeah, I think the 1515 is like the XL, the 1512 the L, and there was another that looked like it would be a regular 540, but I can't remember the #.

I think it is a 1509 is the smaller one.

I swear someone had this motor on an e-maxx long time ago...

I assume the Neu motor has 5mm shaft? Also, Which one would be best for an 1/8 buggy? I'm running a Quark on 4s in a hyper 7. I think I'm going to get one.

Quick update. (it's 3:30am... think I need to go to bed soon :) )

I have done a couple test runs with my 1512 1.5Y now... so far so good.

I put it on the track the other night during the races. Had it geared 10/46 and 4s lipos. It ran very cool but it didn't have much "rip" to it.... no top end at all. Geared too low.

So at home I tried 13/46 and it was better but still really impressed... so I grabbed the 18T gear I have from the emaxx tranny. Much better. :)

Wow... it's geared tall! But it seems to run great. I would like to try a tooth or two lower but don't have anything between the 13 and 18 right now.

With the 18/46 and 4s lipos it's fast... I didn't put the gps in it but it must be hitting low 40's, and plenty of punch. I ran a crappy 3s lipo pack and it was still pretty quick, just not as impressive, obviously.

Run #1... 6 minute nonstop street bashing (simulated racing ;) ) the motor hit 145 degrees and the Mtroniks was 115 on the case and diodes were 125 maxamps 6000s were 110.

Elogger showed peak amps of 75, average 14.6 and only 1544mah used. (I think it's conservative in the mah #'s... maybe add 20-30% ?) I did some long speed runs to see what the amps were like and it would go from 60 amps off the line down to 20-25 amps once up to full speed, FYI.

Run #2... 3s lipo pack for 6 minutes pretty hard. Temps: motor 110 esc 90 (barely warm) peak amps 67 ave 13.5

Run #3 I then did a run with a Mamba Max (w/ubec) and maxamps 6000 lipos, and got similar results to run #1. The car felt really fast on this run, but it was under street lights so that might explain.
9:22 run time minus about one minute of "down time", so about 8-8.5 minutes. Motor 145, ESC 140; 120 at caps, batts 105-110, front drive shaft 120 :) Log data: 2225mah used (over 2500mah charged back after the run) peak amps 77.5 ave 14.3

These runs are on paved street/driveway with bald tires. Peak amps and mah used will surely be higher on a high bite offroad track, but I don't know how much.

A guess would be about 100 peak 20 ave... temps we will see.... I can't wait to see what happens on the track.

Yes... 5mm shaft. :005:

As for which one????? It's too early for me to say, but it appears you can go with a little higher kv than mine. Mine is 1900. They have a 2000 and 2600.

At this point I don't even know if the 1512 is ideal.... maybe the 1515 is better yet?

I think I'm going to get a 1515 for my truggy... so maybe I'll find out. We don't know right now... :035:

That 1515 1Y is looking really good...... :004:

Oh... these runs were with no fans on motor or esc, and it was not real hot here today. And there are 7 smileys in the two posts above.... ha ha

What's with the Y and D designations on the motors? Does that signify the type of wind, and does one type have an advantage over the other?

What voltage did your maxamps packs reached at the 75A current?

One run showed a min 12.1v which is not bad... I'll have to check and see what the voltage was under a sustained full throttle pass.

One run showed a 10.1 dip so I ran that pack too low. That's a very brief dip and it bounces right back up to around but you don't to run them like that.

I have been doing some reading on rcgroups about cutoffs on the newer high-C lipos and they say to keep the cutoff above 3v per cell. You want the voltage to rebound to 3.7v per cell withing a few minutes after the run.

They used to say it's fine as long as it comes back to 3.0v but with the latest cells they say higher is better... I don't know how the cutoff translates to cars though cause it's a different ballgame than planes.

I think I will start looking at what the voltage is a few minutes after running to compare to what the cutoff/ low voltage was.

On a side note, I fried my ICE last night... one of the batt leads touched the power supply case while charging and smoke rolled out the charger. Not good. :031:

You mean your maxamps packs dropped under the 3V per cell, with only a 75A load?

You used a balancer to charge them?

I know what you mean with the higher voltages. the cells from flightpower (www.trakpower.com) stay above 7V at 100A load. you can gain some energy from these little buggers.

nope.. That's Lipo! With Nimh cells, you can charge them for 3700 and only get 3000mAh back..

[QUOTE=Serum]You mean your maxamps packs dropped under the 3V per cell, with only a 75A load?
QUOTE]

Basicly yeah... I can't say my packs are good as new though. The graphs pretty much show 3.5v per cell at 30A 3.4v at 50A 3.1v at 70A and 3.0 at 80A.

These numbers appear to be low but 3.4 at 50A isn't terrible. They are rated 10c or 60A. I can't say they wouldn't pull that off in a constant rate discharge. I have to wait and see what other batteries will show before I complain. The #'s for other pack I ran look to be much worse.

There are variables like temp of battery. I am running them cold which lipos don't like. They produce better graphs if run hotter.

And I don't know how this type of running compares to constant loads like you see in a discharge graph or plane. Often you see a graph dip and come back up as temp rises. These packs would probably hold 3.4v at 60A once they heat up a little, base on my spike load graphs anyway.

here's a few graph snapshots of a coupel different runs