Need some help
 

The stock plastic CVD's on my Nitro Rustler suck.......the axle for my rear tire shreds completly out after a few days of running. These are extended arm conversions from Fast Lane...I cant find CVD that are long enough, a friend recommended that Revo or Jato MIP CVD's would be long enough, but i'm doubtful. If some of you guys could do some measuring of any CVD's you may have, and see if measurements are anywhere close to the Image below...3 1/8 inches
http://img175.imageshack.us/img175/3...017copyjp2.jpg

Geez...Somethings gotta be wrong. I have seen the stock sliders with steel outputs last with serious brushless setups...Not sure about the Revo CVD's either. I heared FLM is supposed to have some CVD's in the works.

everything turns smooth, no binding or rubbing anywhere....... but within a week, they are shot.

How the heck do they spin like that? Isn't there a pin that goes through the end piece and axle (in the small inset) that would keep it from wearing like that?

What are you running in that thing? Gotta be like a 3.3...

brand new 3.3, even had the same problem with the original 2.5.....BrianG, yeah theres a pin, but its totally shreded into peices inside the inset. I think once I find a good CVD, my problem will be solved. Its alot power for the plastic I guess, If I even look at slider tracks up close, they are twisting and warping, no where close to being straight anymore.

Those halfshafts look to be like a stock emaxx, which tend to twist. I think a Revo shaft would be much stronger and should fit on the axle stubs. It's the length I'm not sure of - although they are sliders and slide out for more length (remove the blue boot first) or can be modded to work if they are too long.

I think the Revo shafts might be atleast 2 inches longer..........I might just need to find a steel or aluminum axle to replace the stock, since thats the major problem.

Yeah, the Revo shafts are about 4.75-5" long from pin to pin like in your picture (hard to measure them on the truck). However, you can remove the blue boot, pull the slider out and simply cut about 2" from the outside tube. Then put the slider back in (might have to cut that too). Would definitely be a relatively cheap fix. You can get a set of four from ebay for $20-$25 + shipping.

yeah, that'll work......now i gotta find some axles that are steel or aluminum.

I'm not really sure if the Revo ones will work. What about Jato ones? There smaller around and should hold up.

I might just have to go to a local hobby shop, and try a few other cvd's out. Its the diameter and length of the axles for the Jato and Revo that I dont think will work, do they accept 2.2 tires and will they work with hub carriers on the nitro rustler?

The diameter of the Revo sliders are absurdly to large for this. Thats why I would try the Jato ones. They are smaller than the Revo ones. About as big around as a old Maxx slider I believe. They should work just fine. If there to long, cut them a inch or so...

I think that will fix the crappy stock sliders but now its the axles where my tires screw on I need to figure out. Since thats seems to be the weak point, its just a 1 mm pin molded into plastic.

Use the Jato axles as well?

maybe but I think they are a little short for the rustler hub carriers......

These are the stock Jato...
http://www.buytraxxas.com/images/products/5553.jpg

Nitro Rustler...
http://www.buytraxxas.com/images/products/2753.jpg

Its the pin holes that have me wondering...unless I mix and match MIP CVD for the Jato and Rustler, but that might be a little more than I'm willing to spend.

the pictures dont work for me dude.

now the pictures work..

I have heard of a extended cvd being made. If you interested drop rcbros a pm.
He is working on a rusty with extended arms. The emaxx shaft is alot fatter than a rusty shaft. It won't fit on the out drive of trans for it is alot smaller. Do you have the slipper to tight?

do you have a siezed bearing in there? i have never seen anything like that. I have put a lot of power through the stock slider and never seen that

Thats what I first thought the problem was, I replaced all the bearings though......... but it possibly could it be that my slippery clutch is too tight Or I'm tighten my wheels on too much.

Tighten your wheels up and see if it rolls easy. I know you can over tighten them on an emaxx. If the tire does not spin freely. Loosen it up some.

I have a Jato that i droped the 3.3 in, and the stockers still hold up with no problem and i beat the crap out of it. I would try the Jato sliders and see. With the tires, many times the hexes get worn and sit too close to the axle carrier and causes binding, so get new ones if that's the case, aluminum are great, i think i had to get universal ones and mod them though if i remember right.