Converted PRP Swift
 

A little while ago while searching for a roller 1/8 buggy to convert to electric, I happened upon a PRP Swift that a guy was selling for $90. So, I took it, and the rest is history.

Here it is, with the radio tray and fuel tank stripped from the chassis:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3362.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3367.jpg
(it didn't come with the rear center bulkhead inserts, but I didn't need them)
And a comparison with my Dark Impact (1/10 4wd buggy):
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3368.jpg

Now for its current stage:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3669.jpg
The electronics corner:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3674.jpg
You can somewhat see the Mamba Max there. I haven't pushed it too hard yet, but once I get some new batteries I have a feeling that I might need to put a fan on it. You can see the Novak XXL receiver there. The servo is a Tower Pro MG995 (200oz./in. and 0.13sec.). It says digital on it, so I'll assume that's what it is. What intrigued me to get it is that I got two of them for only $30! So far this servo is working excellently, and even if it does burn out, I still have another one! Also in the picture is the UBEC from http://www.xushobby.com but with clear shrink wrap. This device lets me disable the BEC on the Mamba Max since the on-board BEC can't take 4s Lipo.

The motor and ESC plates:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3675.jpg
My style of conversion involves making a custom motor plate and ESC plate that replace the stock pieces. This time I was too lazy to make the rear center bulk out of aluminum, but there's no need to. The ESC plate is made to hold a Mtroniks Truck with two bars similar to how I did it on my XTM X-Terminator, but I prefer to use the Mamba Max. The motor there is a Feigao 8L that was the first BL motor I ever got, and it will probably end up being switched out with a different motor.
The diff is from a Hyper 8 with a Kyosho 46t plastic spur. Unfortunately the output cups are just a little short, but they will work for now.

Battery space:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3679.jpg
You might not be able to see it, but there is an aluminum u-channel around the center-rear driveshaft and the rear brace. Soon I'll put some velcro on this piece and it will be used to help hold the battery in. The rest of the battery mounting has not been decided yet, as I don't have the batteries to work with. What I'm looking at getting are two Maxamps 2s 4200mah 15C (2100HV cells) packs. They should be able to handle the setup, and their total weight is approximately equal to that of 6 NiMh cells (twice the power of NiMh for the same weight). These batteries will only sit on the chassis, and won't sit on the mud guards since the mud guards have a very odd shape where they mount to the chassis (not at all ideal for putting batteries on).

I also have a body that I got for it, but it's made for a XT2, so I had to do some trimming. Once it's painted I'll get a pic of that.

As far as performance, it's not quite up there yet. The center diff (from a Hyper 8) has 10k diff fluid in it, and when driving on the street I can see a lot of power unload to the front wheels when I punch it. I think I'll move up to 20k and see how that does.

Nice Job, MetalMan. Probably I'll just find myself a nice 1/8 buggy and convert it to electric as well.

Nice. I replied on the *coughothercough* forum.

Nice. I don't see a battery holder yet. It looks good though.

wide chassis, good for a 12-14 cell set-up:)

Looking good mate. I've had 6 or 7 of those servos, they work brilliant! I can confirm their digitalness, I run my 3PK in HRS and it makes a weird clicky noise with analog serovs. These dont do it.

Every time I see another buggy it makes me want to do mine quicker!

I'm gonna do an XB8 soon.

Looks rather clean too. What you gonna change the motor to if you do?

I'd have to use the mud guards for 12-14 cells (which I WON'T use NiMh ;)), and the mud guards aren't flat so they would be difficult to work with.
I have thought of an idea for mounting the batteries, though. It'll be similar to how I mount batteries on my Rustler, here's a pic for reference:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...r/IMG_3680.jpg
There are two polycarbonate angles per battery, you just can't see the division between them because the velcro straps are covering it.
With this setup, the angle pieces are attached to the chassis by industrial strength adhesive-backed velcro. This way the angle pieces are adjustable for different sizes of batteries, and the velcro also provides a little cushioning for the battery. Then, there's a velcro strap that runs over the top of the battery to hold it in.
The result is a battery holder that can adjust for batteries of different widths, cushions the battery, is easy to work with, and is rather strong.

This servo does buzz with a standard FM radio system.

It'll be a while before I can change out the motor, but when I do it might be for a Neu.

A brushless buggy RULES..

What motor is it you are using now? perhaps i can get the mambamaxx for my buggy as well. I like the small footprint of that baby.. How does it hold?

It's a Feigao 8L. I haven't pushed it hard yet, so we'll have to see how the Mamba Max holds up. glassdoctor will also test out the Mamba Max on his truggy or buggy with a Neu motor.

That's a hot motor, Metal!

Do you have an eageltree?

Yeah, I have an Eagle Tree MicroPower. Once I get the new batteries I can hook it up and see what the motor's doing.

What do you mean by you "WONT" use NiMh. Are they so heavy that the side guards would collapse on a jump? I'm sure i've seen a few brushless buggies with batts on the sideguards.

Metalman has moved on to LiPo only pretty much...I can say I'll never get NiMH again....And I don't even have LiPo's yet..

I'm not much of a buggy man, but that is going to one nice ride man. f I may, why buggies guys?

Because of their superior handling.

As well as the fact that there damn near indestructable in stock trim...

squee is right. The only NiMh/NiCd cells I have are stick packs, the cells in my transmitter, and some 2 year-old GP3300s (that don't work). I don't have any desire to run NiMh when my focus has shifted to LiPo, and I feel I know enough that I can continue using them without any problems. Besides, I find LiPo to be better than NiMh :027:.

I wouldn't be worried about the strength of the mud guards holding the cells, it's just that it would be hard to make battery mounts fit properly onto them. My original plan used a motor above the center diff and larger batteries on the chassis and mud guards, but I couldn't figure out how to overcome the shape of the mud guards.

Why not use different mud guards, or even use a heatgun to make them like you want them...

new user they have very smoth handling, great for the track. and good for jumps, (track jumps)

I suppose I could try out new mudguards, but finding them wouldn't work too well. The LHS I work at (only close one) only stocks one 1/8 buggy: the XTM XT2. While I could try out the mud guards from that, I just don't think it would be worth it. With the Maxamps batteries I plan on getting, they will easily sit neatly on the chassis, and what's good about that is that they will remain closer to the centerline (as close to it as they possibly could). Here's a pic to show why I can't mount batteries on the stock mud guards:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3701.jpg
You'll notice that there's a ridge where it meets the chassis. That ridge is actually raised above the outer surface of the guards. I can't just shave the ridge off since the ridge is only there because of the angled edges of the chassis.

is there room directly on the chassis to mount the batteries with associated battery cups?

It might be able to fit Associated cups, but I'm straying away from using them. They would be about 10mm wider than necessary for the batteries I plan on getting. I used to use the Associated cups in my Rustler, until an upside-down landing on the body caused the hold-down screws to rip through the plastic (and releasing the batteries).

Where did you get the polycarbonate angle from, metalman?

http://www.mcmaster.com
I order all of my screws, nuts, washers, etc. from there. Just this morning I placed an order for some more of the polycarbonate angle (1 1/2 x 1 1/2in. legs) and some 4mm set screws. They have a warehouse only about 20-30mi. from where I live, so I get my order the day after I order it.

Must be nice to have a place like that near you! I have close places too, but they are DOWNTOWN Mpls! Try to stay out of that area as well. Wouldn't go there with less than a platoon with me!

A few days ago I finished the battery holders, but still have to do the battery straps. Soon (very possibly this weekend) I'll be getting some batteries from Maxamps. Originally it was going to be a 4s2p setup using the 2100HV cells, but glassdoctor convinced me to go with 4s3p for increased capacity and increased amp-handling capability. This pack will also end up being more economical for me since the reduced current draw per cell should allow the pack to give more cycles.

Here are some pics of the battery holders:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3846.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3849.jpg
This setup allows for a battery up to about 35mm wide to fit.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...t/IMG_3851.jpg
It can fit batteries up to about 50mm (2in.) wide. Unfortunately the length is limited to about 105mm.

Nice... I still like it... looks like my truggy layout... only shorter. :)

I was talking to BrianG the other day about this layout. If I didn't already have all these 140mm long lipo packs.... hmmmm

I might even end up redoing my X-Terminator into the same setup. Right now it's a more standard setup with the motor above the center diff and the batteries on the mud guards.