Converting a HB LSPR truggy to electric...need some help w/ esc/motor etc Pics Inside
 

Im converting my truggy to brushless. The pics below are how it sits now. I need to find somebody to make me a motor mount for a brushless motor. I plan on running a lipo pack. The info i need some help with.....

Whats a good motor as far as power, durability, and quality?
Whats a good esc that can be used with Lipo or Nimh packs?
Anybody know somebody that can make me a motor mount?
Where do i get pinions for the motor and do i need to change the spur gear?

I hope im not asking alot here. I was going to deal with Fine Designs but i read too much crap on them. I was directed here and StarluckRC. I plan to make a nice purchase for everything within a month. Money for the esc/motor/pinions(want a few for gearing options)/motor mount isnt really a worry at this point. Im expecting it to cost under $1000, hopefully with a lipo battery and battery hold downs. I dont need a charger, i have a ICE.

My biggest concern is the motor mount. I need to find somebody that is willing to make me a few...so i can have a couple extras.

Here are a few pics:

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...R/DSCN2924.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...tchez/LSP4.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...atchez/LSP.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...tchez/LSP3.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j9...tchez/LSP2.jpg


Thanks for any help any of you may be able to offer!:027:

Cool.

You will love it brushless!

your q's;

(depending on the amount of cells you want to put it thru..)

1>Neu 1512 or 1515, or a wanderer 8-9XL
2>Quark 125
3>Yes, Mike. He can machine you one, but from stock L profile or a sheet, you should be capable of making one youself. WIth a dril, dremel, rasps and most important, some patience you can do it yourself.
Get a Kyosho 46T spur from Mike, and he can help you with the pinions as well. Your LSP has got a 43/10 ratio on the diffs.

here is my attempt of making one brushless. I would do it different now.

With a lay-down motor-mount. (so the motor sits next to the diff, instead of above.

Thanks sooo much. Once i get the cash ill have to give him a call to see what we can do. I want to do it right the first time..... Whats his name on the forums so i can pm him?

James

RC-Monster Mike

But he is on Holiday at this moment.

Yeah i saw that.

Was your truggy also posted on Truggyracers.com because i believe ive seen it before. Im planning on the same setup only with Lipo's and the motor to the left side of diff.

Id make my own mount if i had too but if i could have him make me mounts it would make it easier for me to actually get it done:027: Once i have the mount its just a matter of getting the electronics and everything installed and making sure its all good.

Yes! thanks for the head-up!!

I totally lost that forum out of sight!!! Perhaps i am going to get me an LSP again.. I liked it a lot..

Sorry to hijack this thread but could I ask a quick question?

I'm also about to make this conversion on my LSP. I am going to go with the quark 125 but which of the wanderers would be best if I decide to use a 4000mah 4s lipo? I would like good runtime but also something a little faster than my RB WS7II powered Mugen MBX-5.

Pick an XL motor in the 2000-2500kv range if you want it pretty fast. A bit lower is fine for racing imo.


I would say a 7XL but I haven't run one in a truggy...

If you want to go faster than your RB powered mugen, make sure to get good lipo's.

Thanks for the help guys. I'll start my own LSP build thread once I get some parts from Mike. I appreciate the responses.

By PM you told me you wanted to get the 7XL, which is a good choice for 4S lipo. with proper lipo's i meant, get something that is capable of delivering the current, without thermalling it's life earlier than expected.

A good choice would be to get the maxamps 4000's on 4S2P configuration. That way you will have got plenty power and runtime on your side.

if you can afford it, a Neu 1512 or 1515 would be a wise choice too. I also heard a lot of people running their mamba-maxx on 4S lipo, with great succes!! They do use an external Ubec and take the red wire from their receiver/speedo plug to prevent the speedo's BEC to interfere with the external Ubec.

Ah so many choices, and for a brushless noob like myself is becoming a little overwhelming.:032:

Time for me to take advantage of the "search" function. Thanks for the expert advice Serum.

I am editing the pictures in the other thread as we speak!

There's so many different options its very confusing. Im just waiting for Mike to email me back when he returns and hopefully i can carry on with the buildup.

Is my choice of the MaxAmps Lipoly 8000mah 2S2P 7.4V Pack a good pack to use in conjunction with the Neu 1515 and Quark Monster Pro 125B Brushless Sensorless Speed Controller? Will i need to run an external receiver pack?I want something that is going to not stress out the esc and motor. Im really looking for a setup that will stay relativly cool and not overheat. I plan on using a small Novak fan from a GTB ESC for extra cooling on either the esc/motor/or both.


As far as charging the battery.....thats whats making me nervous, hearing about all the possiblities with Lipo's. So with this particular battery...i can charge at up to a max of 8 amps? How would you figure out what to set the threshold voltage at and the cutoff voltage during charging? Does that esc have a cutoff to shut down everything when the voltage gets to a certain level so I wont damage anything? Im only used to Nimh so this is a little new to me.

Would this http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...ALANCER&cat=19 help at all after running the pack. After running do i need to discharge the pack after each run and then re charge it or can i just put it back on the charger after each run? Thanks :)

One thing you NEVER do is discharge a LiPo pack after you run it unless your trying to get them back in balance or something. The MAX charge voltage is 4.2 volts per cell and the MINIMUM is 3.0 volts per cell. Going higher than the max or lower than the minimum will possible and likely damaged one or more of the cells. LiPo's are different than NiMH. You can charge them a week before you run them and they will hold the charge without damage without creating a memory. I would recommend topping them off before running them if you charge them that far in advance though. And yes, you should only charge at a max of 1C or for a 8000mah pack, 8 amps. Some packs, like the Scorpions from FMA, can be charged at higher rates though. Some of the newer packs can also be charged at higher the 1C, but will decrease the life slightly.

You must use a lithium-specific charger. There is no "threshold" or any such nickel-cell stuff. :) The lipo chargers know what to do.. they charge to a specific voltage (4.20 volts per cell typically) and hold the voltage steady and slowly drop the amps down to zero.

Yes... you can charge at 1c... which is 8 amps for the 8000mah (8 amp-hour) packs.

Yes... you can put the packs on the charger right after the run... never discharge the lipo before charging under normal operation.

Definitely get up to speed on the lipos.... it's a different ballgame than nimhs.

EDIT: aahhrr beat to the punch again. too many fast guys here :)

So are you saying use an Astroflight 109(i think that was it) instead of my ICE?

I wouldn't use the Astroflight. It's not a CC/CV charger and doesn't work well with most balancers. Get something like the E-station 701 or even a 301. I think the 301 is the same thing as a Multiplex charge, like alot of other chargers. The Ice should work though...

Sorry to hijack again, but for the noobs, what is a CC/CV charger?

ICE is fine... it is a true "lithium" charger. I meant you can't just use any old battery charger.

CC/CV is "constant current/constant voltage" and it describes how it charges the battery.

CC stage gets the battery to 4.2v
CV tops off the charge by holding it steady at 4.2 until the battery can't take it any more.

The current will slowly drop to zero once the charger hits 4.2 and switches to CV mode. . Once the current drops off a lot, like below 1 amp... there isn't much "charge" put into the battery... just a few mah.

Hey Serum with a couple of Mike's sinks and a bit of welding you can have one that you could beat a whale to death with :032:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/P1050767.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/P1050764.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...T/P1050761.jpg

Holy hell...That thing is nice! Besides that, I'm sure you won't have a problem with over heating...

Yeah i just read through the ICE's manual...its should actually be a pretty good lipo charger.

Now i just need a motor mount to actually continue with this project. I found a member on RCCA that has made a machined aluminum mount that im trying to see if he can make me one. And i also emailed Mike about it but i will have to wait for him to return before i get an answer. Until then there isnt too much i can do to the truggy except to sit and wait.

Cool(ing) thing Cab!

TIG welded?

That motor mount is crazy :eek: Looks very strong.....

James, The waiting is something I never get used too with this hobby :027:
I'm sure Mike will sort something for you though.

Serum , Na its Oxy'/'cetelene, with a fine tip and a VERY practiced hand.
Its abit heavier than I would have liked but mabye a few hole here and there will sort that. Still it wont be bending anytime soon