brushless questions..
 

i have decided im going to get a B4 and put a mamba maxx in it, will hopefully get the B4 soon but will run brushed while im saving for a mamba maxx

im kinda stuck between the 5700 and the 7700, i obviously want as much speed as possible which would be the 5700 if i ran on 12 cells or 3s lipo
but the 7700 would give me more speed for just general use which i would probably run 6, 7 or 8 cells on
im leaning towards the 5700 then i have the option to go insanely fast if i wanted

can someone tell em what runtimes would be like with 6 cells? 8 cells?12 cells? 3s lipo?

say i normaly ran 8 cells or somthing if i wanted to go out for some speed runs with 12 cells or 3s lipo would i have to change the gearing?

im not sure if i want to go lipo or not, what are the advntages of them?
60 mph with a 3s lipo sounds very tempting, although i have heard they are quite dangerous if overcharged or treated wrong?
how much am i looking at for a decent lipo and charger?


i think thats all the questions i have for now

thanks

Take the 5700, i can guarantee you won't be dissapointed. It's a blast on proper 2S lipo's already.. You can get 1400-1500 watts from a good 2S pack. Go figure.. :)

Lipos are no longer as dangerous as they were in the past.
What you really need is a good lipo charger( Do NOT use any lipo charger), good lipo cells ( MaxApms, Evo20, Kokam,etc), LVC device( I guess Graupner and Schulze have some) and a good balancing system ( Hyperion and FlightPower's V-Balance are said to be very good).

7700 motor would take you to the 50s easily with 6 cells and you really should not go over 6 cells or 2s with that thing as it already been working like crazy with 6/2s cells.
5700 is the most popular among the people who run 1/10th 2wd, 4wd off road.
Its speed is very nice at 7.2V, but its scary fast at 12-15V. You do need to pay close attention to your differential and you should remember that the B4 becomes very fragile with super powerful brushless setups.

I do have some other setups for you to take your car to a new level of speed you really dont want to experience, but you should not try it, since your buggy wont bear it at all.:cool:

i havnt actualy bought the car yet, whqat one would you recommend?

iv been thinking...would T4 shock towers, tyres and shell fit on a B4?
because the chassis of the B4 looks stronger but the T4 has the truck body which would protect it more and biger tyres to help keep the front down

I have both T4 and B4.... I'll have to look to see about the towers swapping, I have no idea.

But.... I'd just get a T4 if I were you.

The chassis are the same, truck is just longer/wider arms. Why do you think it's weaker than the buggy?

looking at the pictures on the team associated website the B4 arms look stronger
maybe a T4 would be better, they are hard to find over here in the UK though

In racing, I've never seen more breakage in the trucks than the buggies. The only time I broke my T4... I clipped a brick wall when I pushed wide coming out of a corner full throttle. Snapped the arm. Any vehicle I think would have. ;)

The arms are longer... hang out there a ways... but they are built a little thicker than the buggy's.

ok, well i think im going to have to get whatever one pops up on ebay first
im watching a B4 FT that ends in a day so will see what happens

what are T3s like? i found one on ebay
are spares still available? do they share many parts with the T4s?

The T4/B4 are a completely new platform, so the B3/T3 won't share many parts at all. Some things can be swapped, but it will change the geometry etc. if they do "fit".

I have a B3 still laying around to compare, but never had a truck before the T4.

I don't know any reason to think the T3 is less durable... in fact I seem to recall others saying the T2/T3 are probably more durable than the T4. But his stuff is subjective... kinda like my dads smarter than your dad.... chevy vs. ford etc...

In the U.S. parts for the "3" cars are still easy to find. Tower has them... LHS probably are hit and miss since the T3 hasn't been sold for what, 3 years now?

hmm i will stick to a B4/T4 then

i just missed a losi MF 2 go on ebay for £40 they are £270 new :eek: :035: :019:
but i have pretty much sold my stampede now and a motor for £67

Don't get a Losi if you want durability...They are awesome racing machines, but bashing, they just can't take it. I have a XXX BK and there not really that durable.

thats good to hear then as i didnt win it
the guy who bought my stampede is paying by cheque though so i wont have the money to get one by next weel:026:

Cant you get something better?
A 4wd full of carbon fiber components and high end engineering?

They're pricy, but you really wont regret the outcomes.

The one I can really recommend you to buy right now is the Yokomo MR4-BX 4wd buggy. Its for $500 NIB. With a nice 6 cells saddle pack and the Mamba Max 7700 combo, you'll feel like you're driving over 100mph.

These buggies are super stable and durable.

$500 afraid not.....waaaaay out of my budget, im just looking for a cheap one that will still be up to the job as it will only get used when i cant use or cant be bothered with the nitros

Then I guess the B4 is your ultimate choice. Get some Integy shock towers and chassis bulkhead and braces. They'll make the buggy even tougher.

my plan is to just replace most things that break with alloy
with the exception of the chassis, arms etc...

Got some pics of integy parts you might need to keep your buggy in one piece:

They are however extremely durable when used for racing........just not for bashing.

You might want to condider a XX-4 or a XXX-4...I prefer 4wd over 2 anyday...

Can the 3s li-po cell be used in the mb4-bx? I still haven't bought a car. Looking around.

The split battery layout makes me wonder if I could get the battery to work. I know the xxx-4 and xx-4 would.

For a basher the Traxxas cars are good cause the parts flex rather than snap. The pure racers are built light and stiff... the parts don't have much flex so the don't give... they snap.

Personally, I will always go with a race car like the Losi and Assoc cars. But many bashers prefer the less race-able but rugged Rustler.

thanks, i had a quick look at them on tower hobbies aswell prices dont seem too bad

how much better is the FT over the normal one or the stealth?
as the normal ones seem alot cheaper

You might be better off with the non-factory team version. The FT has all the graphite parts which are lighter but won't flex as much. There are a few nice things the FT has but they aren't neccessary. The front brace and lunsfords are good for durability but the rest is just "nice".

some FT stuff I like...
teflon coated threaded shocks
ball bearing steering
aluminum front hinge brace
titanium turnbuckles
aluminum servo mounts

Another thing I like is the carbon fiber battery hold down... with a screw-and-nut mod that replaces the body clips. It's nice because you use the nuts to tighten the brace and it hold the battery tight, and could be modded to work really well with lipos I think.

One thing I don't like is the lightweight diff/outdrives in the FT. They wear out pretty fast so you have to get some regular steel ones after a while.

Even the RTR isn't bad... has some stuff like dog bones instead of CVDs, but it's mostly the same car.

ahh ok thanks for that, im glad i didnt win the FT one now then

what are these like?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Academy-SB-Spo...QQcmdZViewItem

A couple local racers have run them. I wanted one when they first came out but I just kept my XX4.

There were a couple issues with the first units but I'm sure they have been addressed now, and there are hop ups like aluminum motor plates etc if you need something upgraded.

It's a poor man's Kyosho/Yok/BJ4... and there are some satified SB owners... like Cain at www.rc10B4.com

ok
that can be an option then, although i prefer the B4 but im finding it hard to find a cheap one

im now very confused
will my runtimes get longer or shorter if i run more cells? i have been told they will get shorter and longer :027:

and would i have to change gearing if i ran more cells?

and can anyone answer one of my questions in the first post?...can someone tell em what runtimes would be like with 6 cells? 8 cells?12 cells? 3s lipo?(this is on the 5700 mamba maxx)

As the old standard rule, runtime decreases when you add cells. This is based on the fact that the amp draw will go up with the higher voltage, and assumes all other variables are the same. Given the same exact setup with the only change being higher voltage, then yes the motor will suck more amps and runtime will be less.

BUT.... there are soooo many variables that you can't really make a blanket statement like that.

Usually when we talk about running higher voltage setups, this assumes a different motor/gearing etc. So it's apples to oranges.

Higher voltage with a milder motor can give longer runtime... sometimes much longer. Plus the higher voltage battery of the same mah has more energy stored in it so it has the potential to give more runtime.... or more power, depending on the setup.

Are you more confused now????

You're absolutely correct.. :)

no i think i understand:027:
what runtimes would i be expecting with the amount of cells i mentioned in the previous post? im trying to work out the best amount of cells for me to run

does anyone here know about B4 gearing?
i have a peak dyanasty 19t spec motor?
and a orbital pro BB 2R 12t?
and what would i run for the mambamaxx

anyone?