Quark Question
 

I ran my truck again last night to test the new towers i put on. And, i'm noticing that my quark is not in thermal mode, and when i slow to take a turn, it just stops. I give reverse a tad bump and i'm off running again. That is, until i slow up for the next turn. What gives with this thing?????:035:

you are not the only one with this problem. i heard this from several people now. this kind of sucks.

Yeah, how is it solved? Anyone? When i find another track to race on, it's gonna kill my times if i stop at every slow down???

Did it just start doing it or has it done it before and you thought it was thermaling?

It did it before on the last few runs and i thought it was in thermal mode, but when i checked the led's on the controller, that wasn't in thermal mode. Then i tapped the reverse, and off it went!

I may just sell this thing. I love it...WHEN IT WORKS! If i ever get my 12020 back, i may just run that instead. It may not be AS smooth, but the temps are better on the warriors...IMO.

Has anyone found the solution to this? Just curious?

I don't think the solution can be offered by us, users.

Quark needs to do some tweaking on their software i think.

Hmmmm. I'm thinking maybe reprogramming it may help. It didn't do this when i first got it at all and ran 16 cells on it. I wonder if it has something to do with LIPO???

That is something you should contact Sky&Technology about. It sounds like a manufacturer defect or something. My Quark has been absolutely flawless (except maybe the touchy reverse braking) in my Revo. Maybe Quark did a firmware revision in later models? Personally, I would get it fixed and then sell it if you don't want to deal with possible future headaches. It will sell far better that way then in the current condition.

Interesting. What lipo mode do you have it in? If you have it in "lipo high" mode and the batts drop too much voltage under load, the ESC might pull back. I'd try Lipo soft (or whatever it's called). I'm not implying the batteries are bad, just might sag more than the ESC programming likes.

Interesting, high LIPO mode??? Or high vs dynamic mode?

That's a good one. sounds like it's worth a try..

right now i have it set on normal vs dynamic and what not. Thought about putting it to soft too. Anyone have a link to sky?

too lazy boy...

http://www.quarkbrushless.com/

http://www.sky-technology.net/

This is what I was referring to: page 3 of the manual.

You might want to look at some of the other settings as well.

Reading the manual;

did you removed the red wire from the receiver wire?

That is helpful, thank you so much man! So if i set it to normal(if it's not already), that might help huh?
I did yes sir.

Test it..

will do, not sure if i will be able to tonight, but i will letyou guys know. i appreciate it.
i know someone else is having the same issue, i want to say it's jhautz but not sure. Curious to know what his is set at.

I just got off the phone with Mike, and he told me he had no issues with his quark what so ever.

i was there when he ran it. So i know it can be a good controller. just not sure why i have issues with mine. we will continue the process of elimination and see.

My guess is, it's some kind of lipo setting, or it is 5S related. thing in general (as with the 6S issues)

reprogrammed it and works well so far!

Did you used another cut-off setting?

I used 3.0 cut off, then went back into the settings and set it as normal. After extensive running yesterday though, it is still happening after about 15 min of running. So, not sure what the deal with it is.

Sounds like it's a thermal reaction. Not saying it's thermalling.

That was my thought too. But the part that throws me is, when i bump the reverse, it goes again right of way?

Hard to tell, it's a mixture of software and hardware, so it can be anything.

LOL...sounds like a woman issue to me! hehe, you can never tell!

LOL, it can be anything.. I need to go to the toillet.. but i don't feel like it.. But...

True, very true! That's like how it's acting...i want to go..um, but i'm too lazy, um maybe i will, maybe i won't.....who knows! It sucks, cuz it runs fine for a long time, then just plain gets finicky! Yesterday, i just walked up behind it and gave it swift kick in the ass(my truck)! off she went! Then died, then went, then died...

Sounds like a low volt cut off issue to me. It sounds like what happens to mine when the lipos are dumped. When my batts are dumped it never cuts out while Im still on the throttle. It cuts as soon as I let go of the throttle. Then it sits for second or until I go into reverse then starts again. It only happens to me when the batts are done though.

Try reprogramming it for NiMH and running it on your 16cell NiMH pack again. If it doesnt do it then you will know its has to do with the lipo cut off.

Maybe there is something not right w/ the low voltage cut off.

Either that, or the lipos can't sustain the voltage under heavy load and their voltage dips below the cutoff momentarily. That's why I intially recommended setting the power level to lower so the ESC would be more gentle on the batts, thereby keeping the voltage up.

I would love too! but i got rid of both sets of 16's tp pay for the LIPOS~! :(

could i try 14 cells with the 10xl?

sure, why not..............

I don't think that it is the lvc causing the problem. I've got the same problem, and I have been using the NiMH setting on the quark.

I think I remember reading in the manual that even though you pick NiMH type, if you have ever set the voltage cutoff, it will still be in effect even though you are no longer using Lipos.

Hmmm.... I remember reading that too..

Try calling Quark Direct. I had some questiions and they were very helpfull on the phone. They will help you figure it out. Im sure of it.

(310) 527-0002

Let us know what they say.

That doesn't make sense, if the LVC is in lipo mode even if you pick NIMH it would almost not run due to lower voltages, unless you run way higher voltages to overcome it. Glad i didn't jump on the bandwagon when they came out, I think i'll stick to castle and mamba at any price

That is the way it reads in the manual, but there has to be a way to return it to stock so you can use the other settings. If not Quark made a serious programing misstake :032: and should make right on it. Hopefully you wont have to send it back to get it corrected. Give them a call they have a good support line. Let us know what they say.