check it out! my e-maxx...
 

Well here is my e-maxx!

It is almost complete, I need to fine tune the final gear ratio. I am running about 10.36:1 right now (51 spur, 14 pinion, 2.85:1 diffs), what final ratio is the best?:032: Temps are ok (100 on the motor, 90 esc) right now because it is only like 50F outside…………. (and yes, i know the spur is messed up)

So here are the specs:

Aluminum bulks
t-maxx 3.3 diff housings
Aluminum diff cups
Quark 125b w/custom heatsink
Feigao 540c 9xl
Ubec
16 gp 3300’s (going 6s 8000 lipo soon)
Custom extended chassis
Lowered shock towers
Jato shocks w/revo springs
Custom center diff
Adjustable rear motor brace
23mm conversion w/crime fighters
Proline high downforce wing
Mip cvd’s
Rpm arms
14.5in wheelbase
And probably other stuff I forgot!

One thing I must say, it handles really really good! Fast too, I’m really happy with it. (can you tell?:005: )

pics!

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_0894.jpg


http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_0895.jpg


http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_0902.jpg


http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...IMG_0903-1.jpg


http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_0905.jpg


http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_0906.jpg


all done with a dermel, hack saw, bench grinder and other hand tools!

Cool! The tranny area looks empty without the tranny in there! Jato shocks?! Must sit lower, or did you do something with the towers?

What's wrong with your center diff spur? It looks wobbly or something...

That thing is crazy! I love it. Looks like a you made the complete transformation from truck to truggy.

Is the motor mount stiff enough? Could that be what messed up your spur? What center diff did you use?

Nice work man!!

if i can give you one tip;

Use braces on the bulks.

A tempgun gives you the best ratio.

brianG, look at the third pic, you can see that the shock tower was lowered;
and for the spur i had it come un-bolted during a run.


jhautz, the motor mount does not move because of the rear motor brace, so that is not what messed up my spur. to answer your last question, it is an ofna mbx center diff.

serum, i'll get those bulk braces real soon.

Nice work dude... looks likes it's time consuming.. but it looks cool... :)

Great! The truggiest maxx to date.

thanks everyone for the nice words!

does any one know if the truerc.com 4000mah 10c lipos would do good with my setup? right now my gp 3300's have seen better days. i get a good 18-20 min. bashing on a charge and about 10 min. racing, even though they are only charging between 2200-2600mah.

thanks!

4000 10C might be a little low on low side. You should probably look at getting something capable of at least 60A constant as a minimum. Maybe the Maxapms 15c 4000mah packs would be better.

i thought there was a thread around here some where explaining that the maxamps and truerc.com lipos were the same, just that maxamps rates them higher?

Yea. Go for the 8000mah if possible...

very nice....i like it when people think outside the box...very cool ..great job man

if you are going to keep the quark, only run 5s. on 6s you will have major problems when fully charged.

i know i should only run 5s, but 6s is just so tempting. i have read over at rcz of one person running 6s without any problems. also i called quark and they said that if i have any problems that i could send my 125b in for repair/replacement. BTW i have never overheated my 125b or had any other sort of problems with it, so i think i'm good to go on 6s..................

also, in mikes quark durability test ( http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/show...urability+test ) he ran 6s 2300mah a123 cells.................... check post #6

i hope you have success. please let us know the results!

6s on A123 is not the same voltage as a 6s lipo btw. They only charge to 3.7V while lipos are 4.2V. 6s M1 ~=5s lipo

If your motor is running that cool you can certainly move up on the gearing. I bet a 15t or perhaps a 16t would be ok.

i think the reason my motor is running that cool is because it is only like 50-55F outside. besides it is already geared for like 50mph (figure fully charged batts 1.2v under load.)

any other comments on lipos?

5s or 6s?

4000mah or 8000mah? leaning towards 4k to save weight.

BTW i am referring to TrueRc.com lipos........

thanks!

Cemetery, I should get my TrueRC packs in today (2 3S 8000mah) and will let you know what I think. I should be able to test them today or tomorrow...

sweet man, that will be awesome!

PROJECT STOPPED

Well I finally got my maxamps 5s lipos (2s+3s) and found out that the chassis is too flexible to handle this kind of power. I keep stripping spur gears with the center diff. I could just put back the original transmission, but what would be the fun in that?

I am going to convert my LSP again mainly because the drive train is really strong. (look for a build-up thread soon)

opinions?

Bye:018:

There's no reason to stop the project because of such an itty-bitty little detail like chassis flex! About 80% of the fun of these things is finding ways to overcome obstacles!

What about shoring up the chassis with some metal supports?

well, the truck looks different now than it does in the pics here; i have connected the center diff to the front bulk and supported the back of the motor too. (you can see ion the pics) I think I could have Mike machine me a solid aluminum motor/center diff mount and that might solve the problem, but i don't want to sink more money in to this particular truck. I know that later on down the road it will need 1/8 scale diffs among other things, my LSP has 1/8 diffs and is just stronger IMO

Bye:018:

Got any updated pics?

Yeah, I can understand that. Although, it seems a shame to spend so much time/money on something to abandon it now...

I will try and get some later tonight or tomorrow...

I guess, the thing is I do not want to have to spend more money on it. Ehh, it was a project, time to move on to bigger and better.

The only thing I would possibly do to the LSP I am converting would be the Slipperential "V2" for truggys/buggys (when it becomes avialalbe, if it even does). All the electronics from my e-maxx will be going into my LSP.

Bye:018:

Don't let a little bit of flex get to you.. Like Brian says; it's most likely easy to overcome.

Is your mount moving back and forth some. I would look to brace the motor
mount to the chassis and not to the other diff holder. It should help.

well I braced the motor mount to the diff mount, then the diff mount to the chassis. I also supported the back of the motor.

Also here are your pics CHC (sorry for crappy camera phone pics)

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...metal101/4.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...metal101/3.jpg
http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...metal101/2.jpg

Bye:018:

looks better. definitely looks homemade though! ;)

I really like the looks of the formed rods you put in there, reminds me of a brace for a front wheel drive car, like the civic (reduces chassis flex)

Thumbs Up

Cemetary: I remember that truck now. You had a close-up of the motor mount in another post somewhere a while back. Do you still have that picture (or a link to the thread I'm talking about)?

Umm... uhh...

page 1 of this thread?

Bye:018:

:p OK, so I'm blind! This is the one I'm talking about:

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...IMG_0903-1.jpg

I know you've added those angled bar supports in a previous pic since the one above was taken, but it seems that the motor mount itself is kinda precarious - like there isn't enough stuff holding it in place.

well, i have the back of the motor supported

http://i125.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_0906.jpg

Still think it could use some support though, but nice job!

Actually, I think the motor might be moving back and forth (front-to-back). It seems like there is enough up/down support. You gotta remember the forces the motor mount is subjected to. What might seem a solid mount by a test "wiggle" may move all over the place when the motor is running and the truck is bouncing all over the place...

Hey, I have that same dryer! Oh yah, nice truck too.

Nice work man!

Brian;

Looks like he is using a horizontal brace on the front plate (actual motorplate)

But that's not supporting the entire motor. Try to hook up a brace that actually connects the motor to the front or rear bulk.

I agree, the motor plate should be thick above 2mm thick, and extend down to the chassis, if there is material below it? I can't tell. You would be better making a bigger motor mount, instead of front and read 'lighter' supports. It seems like it might just snap it if have a really good landing/crash/roll over.

Nevertheless, the motor mount does look kinda kickass in a way.

If the chassis flexes any it will pull the mount off a little. A little with alot of
pressure is not good. Just an idea.