Dual brushless and a spool.
 

The first problem I had with my dual BL Maxx (besides braking internal parts) was the flipping over part. The thing would want to wheelie from a roll at 25-30mph. I solved this problem with a wheelie bar. My second problem now (besides breaking more internal parts) is that with my spool in the rear, with all that power and torque, it wants to "slide out" when I give it too much trigger. Do you think if I got rid of the spool this would help keep things in line under acceleration?
Thanks

I personally have no experience with such high power machines, but I would guess that getting rid of the spool should tame your rear end down a bit.
Also, you might want to play with the toe and camber settings.

What wheels are you running on what kind of surface?

I am running on the street in front of my house (asphalt) with this tire/wheel setup (The truck has been lowered since this pic)

What about getting some 40 series rims and tires?

I think Proline's Big Joe would help you to keep your Maxx in line :D

If i would have seen the rims like the ones on the banner up above before I bought mine, (i think that is Maxx Fusions truck)I would have bought those...... Still might actualy. Anybody know where I can get those?

What chassis do you run a gmaxx i assume, also what motor set up, as for breaking internal parts. Have you thought about getting a set of ultramaxxed gears for your tranny. They are a must from what i hear if you run dually bl motors, you also might want to get a set of 1/8 scale diffs.

Johnny, we talked about this rims on another thread. Apparently they are Ramtechs and they seem to be out of production. Check out the ones on Maxxfusions truck, he has the satin finish and they look awesome. I would love to have those too.

I have the carbonfiber gmaxx chassis with a dual 9L setup.
I do currently have the tranny gears on order.
I have not considdered the 1/8 scale diffs yet because I believe (correct me if Im wrong) they wont work with the RDL CVDs that I have.

If a spool makes the backside unstable in full power load, a diff would even make it more unstable.

I used 10K silicone in the rear diff of my savage, the problem was, it would takes a lot of pressure from the fronttires, so these can't steer the car anymore. (it just starts living its own life..) now i have got 300K silicone (peanutbutter thickness..) and the truck goes straight. What you can do;

Give the rear a little toe in (3 degrees or so), and a 0 degree chamber (or if you have that, give it a few degrees chamber)

And no, RD logics are just too short for the 1/8th diffs.

It takes UE's or MIPS (Mike has got those MIPs and i heard/read more better stories on the mips than on the ue's..)

If they are the same length as the proline or mip cvds they will fit. if they are the same size as the dynimite cvds they wont fit. if not ue cvds will fit. On both my trucks i have ue diffs, one with mip cvds and one with ue cvds

Yes, MIP and UE are a perfect fit so is the GPM cvd type (not the common thing of GPM, the crossed link type, but the CV type..) (that GPM is titanium) I would go for the MIP's those are proved tough.

Can anyone post a pic of a spool??

I am not understanding having a spool in the front/rear?? HUh??

I know what the diff is but a spool? Where does that fit??

Can someone show me a pic and explain??

A spool is a thing, that replaces the diffcase+internal gears, it gives the same amount of power to both wheels. (it is a difflock, you just need to screw the ringgear of the diff on it (with an e-maxx))

It's a nice and cheap alternative for a low cost bulletproof diff..

Take a look at this picture, you'll understand;

http://www.serum.demon.nl/spool.jpg

It is made by traxxas and costs about 10 bucks..

Allow me to share some input on this topic as well, as I have run a spool in the past. First, unless the tires are exactly the same diameter, the spool will not help the truck track in a straight line at all, especially on lower traction terrain. High power with a spool on loose dirt, for example, will wash the rear out everytime! The spool is a nice item for rock crawling, and is yougher than a regular diff, but unless it has been modified to accept 3mm screws (instead of the stock 1.5mm screws), it will eventually fail(the spool itself won't, but the 1.5mm screws will shear). If you want to track stright, you need a diff. Period.
Also, The RDLogics cvds won't work with the 1/8 diffs, unless you do some modifying.

I only tried it with 300K silicone, that is not an entire spool, it gives the wheels a bit of play, but i personally loved it. It goes straight ahead.

Perhaps it has got something to do with the weight of my savage.. (14 lbs+)

So what do we recomend I get diff wise, for my beast?

What have you got for diffs now? Maximizer cups inside aluminum cases work very well when shimmed properly. For the ultimate, the UE 8 spider diffs are probably the toughest out there, but you will have to address the cvds issue tyo run them. What suspension do you have?

I am running stock diffs with a spool in the rear. Do you think that I would be able to get away with running stock gears but with the maximizer cups and aluminum case? As far as my suspension goes, I cant remember the name of the shocks that I have, (bought them on e-bay) but here is a pic of them with RPM a-arms, carbonfiber/aluminum shock tower and every thing else stock.

Most of the people here, have got the stock diffgears, with an aluminum cup and an aluminum diff case.

The thing with the gears that sit in the diff (and the ringgear/pinion) that is that they are modified by traxxas (i read this on another forum) and they are as good as the RR gears now.

if the diffhousing and the diffcup has got no flex, the gears will be doing fine.

BUT in your case, i would use UE diffs for SURE!

I am a person who likes to be on the save side, i bought a set of UE 8spiders too, and i a going to drive my maxx with a 22 serie lehner motor on about 18-24 cells in the future. and a 7XL and a centerdiff to start with.. (lightweigt big motor setup on 12-14 cells)

I asked FLM if they are going to make the 1/8th diff bulkless fit the savage diffs, he told me, that he thought of that too, and perhaps getting them adapted to fit. (that would be a nice, rather cheap, yet heavy duty differential. I can make a very good and bulletproof savage diff. It needs a HB lighting diffcup, lightning hardened crosspins and the savage gears. So if you decide to do so, please let me know, i will give you some tips if needed.

though i don't know how long it takes, before they have adapted those bulkless things.. (would not take long, when i could make them.. ;) ) Perhaps Mike can ask him again?

And the shocks your using are the Hotbodies threated.

I agree, I would go with the UE diffs for sure. I have the stock diffgears, with an aluminum cup and an aluminum diff case. I have reshimmed them a few times allready. One time a just reshimed and put new gears in my diffs at my local track. I left the track with the rear diff gears brocken and the front diffs loose as a goose (same problem in the sand). Granted I'm a little trigger happy but it still sucks. Like Mike said earlier you will need to modify the spool to a bigger screw size. My spool bolts snapped on the first set of batt. The ulttramaxx tranny gears will also be a must. Currently I am waiting for my set that I ordered. My E-maxx has been sitting for awhile do to my smoked tranny and lack of $$. MY trigger happy finger and the beach sand put my E-maxx to the MAXX everytime. I hope with the new ultramaxx tranny gears, and a fresh rebuild on my diffs that it will be a solid truck, since the radio and the shifting servo is the only thing left to replace.

Wow. Seems kinda funny. Here I spend all this money on my setup, and I am having a hard time justifying $260 for a set of diffs.:C:
I will probably just stick with the maximizer cups and aluminum case with stock gears until they break, then upgrade. Unless you really think otherwise Mike?
Dang, I hate being a tight-wadd.

It is logicall.

260 dollars IS a lot of money, BUT, consider this..;

If you buy two quality 1/8th buggy diffs, they will be 40 dollars each. The pinion is about 10 bucks, that makes a total of 50 bucks for 1 diff. (excluding the cup, that fits on the pinion, and excl. bearings.) If you buy the 8 spiders from UE, they are 67 dollars each, including the bearings and cups..

You could sell your old gears/diffs, just rebuild them and they will be as new..

The 1/8 diffs are the ultimate in durability, but the Maximizer diffs inside aluminum cases, when properly shimmed can take quite a bit of abuse. If you aren't doing any jumping or svere off road running, the maximizer diffs will likely last you a long time. If you want to freely smash your truck into oblivion, the 1/8 diffs will be the better option.

Do the UE diffs have to be put together or do they allready come assembled?

They will need assembling and shimming.

They are pricey, but then the best always is

Which Turn 2250 are you buying?? Also what the kv rating on it if I may ask?

try putting the spool upfront and you might get better acceleration and it wont do wheelies so bad

I can't find a relation with that question?