Quark on 6s
 

Wanting to replace the 9920, I've heard a few people saying that the Quark doesn't run on 6s very well.

Before I go into buying one, is this fixed in the new "125B" version? Can anyone shed some light with what problems they are getting?
http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...RK_125A&cat=21

AFAIK, both versions are 125B. I got mine shortly after Mike started listing them and mine says 125B and they have three white motor wires. However, the current ones I see have different colored "neon" motor wires, so I assume those are the "new" ones?

Either way, the ESC is listed as capable of 6s, so if it doesn't, you can get Quark/S&T support to replace or fix it.

My question is, if they "fix" it, does that solve the 6s problem?

i got one from mike last week and it was the one with the neon wires... i don't know if there is any difference between these the the ones with the white wires

abiye, do you have a 6s pack, so you can check it out?

Don't know, but as long as they keep spec'ing it at 6s, it's their problem until it is fixed. Brushless technology is bad enough with trying to get the rest of the vehicle strong enough to handle the power without having a manufacturer falsely rating their equipment. I'm not saying Quark/S&T is doing this, so don't get me wrong, I just feel that if it says it will run at 6s, then it should. Any ESC not able to do this should be returned and fixed/replaced as a warranty item.

IMO, this problem sounds like a firmware issue. Hopefully they updated it for the new version, along with any other possible bugs.

I talked to Frank at Quark just last week while I was checking on a repair I had sent in to them. I was asking about the ''new'' 125s that are showing up with the colored wires. He said that everything else except the wire color is identical to the white wired versions. Only reason that they have new wire colors is that some complained about not having different color wires so they switched to the colors vs all white. Nothing else changed. He also said next batch will have some more conventional colored wires on them, rather than the neon.

I also asked about the 6s issues and the heat issues and he acknowledged that there was room for improvement in both areas, but wouldn't call it a problem. They will support anyone having issues with getting there setup working properly.

I asked if they were going to''fix'' these problems and he said that they were not planning on making any revisions to this ESC. Instead he told me that they are planning a NEW CONTROLLER that is better designed for the 1/8 and MT applications. Reconfiguring, fixing the 6s issue and moving the heat sinks to the top like a more conventional ESC. All he could say was maybe next year as a time for the new esc.

Anyway, I thought that was some interesting news. He couldn't/woudn't give me any more info than that. As you might suspect I started asking alot of questions about this future ESC.


... I guess my point is, the 6s issue is no different with the neon wire versions vs the white wire versions.

Hmm, that decides it then. Thanks.

Hi,
I also consideration hot issues..
so i open my esc ,take look..
look like notthing to change i think..

i will change wire to 12AWG good wire. and use Thermal Adhesive to hold the pad and FET.

By the way . The CAP value is 330uF/35V low ESR Cap..Hope this help.

I fired a 80b on 6s from the problems. The new one didn't work any better.
They did have a good response time though. I think a mgm 24 160 would do nicely for you nick.

Looks like the best alternative.

Would I need a UBEC for MGM? It has built in LVC to?

mgm has built in lvc but need the ubec or receiver pack.

Here's a thought - the caps on the Quark are only rated at 35v. The caps on the 9920 are 50v caps. Does anyone think that might make a difference?

It might...But still, 6S isn't near that voltage...

Yeah, I know. What I've heard is that brushless ESCs used in car applications should have caps that are rated for about twice the voltage that will be going into the ESC. Obviously this isn't the case with the Mamba Max and 5s Lipo.

Yea. I was thinking the same concerning the Mamba Max. Maybe somebody would be brave enough to replace the caps on there 125B with 50V ones to see if thats the problem...

I would do it, but I dont have a Quark. Maybe if you give me yours....

Haha...I WISH I had a Quark...

Shawn at CC once said that the caps should be rated 20% higher than the voltage going into the esc. This statement was in response to my question about whether or not the MM could handle more voltage than 4s lipo.

I've heard most manufacturers of caps underrate their working voltages somewhat as a safety margin. So I wonder if higher voltage caps would do anything at all??

Most circuit designers tend to use caps up to 50% higher that the working voltage. However, higher voltage and/or higher capacitance caps are physically bigger and may not fit in the small spaces found in an ESC. You could add caps outside the ESC, but at high switching frequencies, you want the caps as close to the circuit as possible so that's a limiting factor as well.

The next time someone has their Quark apart to repair the thermal material, they should try installing some higher voltage and higher capacity low ESR caps as a test. IIRC, smhertzog has his 125B circuits exposed so he could install gargantuan heatsinks. Maybe he'll be the guinea pig? :)

hello,
first , sorry my english..

i think i find my problem , i have two new quark125(just difference wire color).
i open one esc to remove alum and soft pad, top and bottom.
so i am try use Thermal adhesive the FET with alum panel, and adhesive to case.(just very very tight)
i am use 18cell Ni-Hm GP4300 battery and Feigao 7XL for testing,
i find FET heat very quickly transmission to case. and just great.
i comparison other esc heat not quick., and heat down as soon.

maybe soft pad not sticky all FET(i open found some).

i don't know i do this is right or wrong, hope this help.

Thank you.

just bought a Quark 125B
 

Hey, i just placed an order with RC-Monster for a Quark 125B last week (i love the name! ;))

My first BL setup going into a 1/8 BL emaxx truggy conversion:

-Quark 125B
-Feigao 540C 7XL
-5 cell, 2P A123 custom made pack :)
-UBEC

As soon as i get the rig up and running i will let you know how it runs!

Welcome aboard Zeropointbug!

I have a question about new quark 125 (color wire ver).
something set can't be save it like Drag Brake , power off then on seting will goto factory default.
but old(white wire ver) is fine.

i think program is differ.

I've had this happen to my "old" white wire version. You program it to a certain drag brake level, then exit. Then if you go back in, it is still at the default setting. Is that right?

Well, actually try it once you exit. I've found that even though the programming seems to revert, it actually doesn't. I programmed the DB to, say, 50%, then exited. I then ran it and it was definitely set to 50%. When I got back in the programming, it seemed to be set to the default value (3%?).

So, to make sure everything is where I want it, I go through all the options and set each one to what I want just to be sure the settings are holding.

At least that's how it seems to work on mine...

neon wires?!
 

Well, one of the reasons i bought the Quark was its kick-ass looks, one being the white wires. Now i hear that they've put neon colored wire on it?

If anyone has white wires that are willing to part with them?

Zeropointbug

Thank Brian,

not, i am set all setup complete than try run that function drag brake ON.
but switch off power or left battery then put back battery or switch on,
that drag brake just go back OFF.

used same setup for old ver it's normal.

i don't know why..

guess program is differ.

the wires are just soldered on so you can change them to whatever color you want...

If I'm understanding you correctly, it seems like it's not holding its memory. That is weird. I'd give Quark a call and see what they say...

How do you tell if it is on default or not?

The manual has the default setting highlighted. So, you just look at the LED pattern on the ESC and match it to the manual. :)

Thank's Brian,
sorry my poor english, hope you understanding what i mean.

even though i also like quark esc so smooth and not cogging to start.