gorilla maxx stuff for emaxx?
 

edit: great i misspelled gorilla in the title... sorry guys!! i cant fix it.


i was wondering if these parts will come back in stock? im wanting to build up a emaxx with these cool parts, but they seem to be outta stock everywhere, are the discontinued or something?
g3 suspension, g2 chassis... i did find the chassis in the aluminum version, but i prefer the cf.:004:
im new to the emaxx so any advise on parts is welcome... i know nothin about this truck. what should i get?
lookin to build this if possible?:032:

http://www.gorillamaxx.com/images/g2005-rs-9.jpg

Gmaxx stuff is awesome. I have got quite a few things from them. They are nicely machined and racer intended.

What are you planning on using your truck for?

Keep in mind - if you are going to be using lipos - the aluminum chassis has a lip that helps keep the batts from sliding off the chassis plate - the carbon fibre one does not - just something to keep in mind.... Good luck

I fixed the title for you.
Welcome to the forum to.
If you go cf and lipo. You can pu like ae cups on it to help with battery sliding out.

Welcome revopqrs, glad to see you have found electric. I have watched many of your videos and look foreward to seeing what you can do with a brushless setup.

Walter, you signature is dead accurate..

yeah:018: :027: :005:

hey thanks for the welcome fellas!! nice to know my vids have been seen.:027:

i am kinda thinkin about the aluminum set up now, im mainly gonna be on a track, but our track is gnarly!!:028:

i havnt gotten the emaxx yet, im trading my old paintball stuff for it, so i should have it in a week or so. ive never even really looked at one before...:eek: but i gotta have the gorilla maxx set up... ohh its sweet lookin!:004:
i hope its up to the task? our big jump puts ya about 15' in the air and probably 30'+ long, bigger for buggies!!. flat landing of course...:020:

heres a recent good one for those who would like to see where we run, this is our private track.:030:
were kinda rough on our toys... im running my jammin FTE.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...10880084&hl=en

so will the GM stuff hold up for me? i wanna whoop the revo guys with it!!(they arent the best drivers so i think it should be doable!):eek:

if ya wanna see more of our vids just click on "more from user" on the right side of the google video page.

do ya think i should run rpm arms instead of aluminum since itll be getting beat up pretty good? the chassis should hold up fine i would assume?

Not sure about the GM stuff, but you might want to look into the Gorilla revo conversion. It would be funny to beat them with an electric revo

Yea. A G2R is the best racer, but the E-Maxx is second...I think as far as chassis go, the GM all the way. The G3 is awesome, but there is rumor of a G4 soon...I personally like the UE Racer-X...

ooooooh! you some inside

You can use the carbon fiber with Lipo, I took the square foams that pop out and put them on the bottom of the lipo battery. Works great! The inserts go directly into the holes. This keeps them from sliding.

the g-maxx stuff is strong but i would not depend my life on it many people have not bent any part of the g-maxx arms and others have totally bet them back wards. It all depends on the amount of mula you want to put into it. RPM is great if your on a slightly cheaper budget and you dint mined not having the bling of aluminum. But aluminum is more rigid has bling but has the chance to bend. What i have for my maxx is the ebst of both worlds but it is very expensive route i have Flextek arms these are flexible titanium that are 48 times stronger than plastic and very rigid, they are about the same weight as the stock arms they look sick but the only downside is they are not shinny they have a kind of titanium color hearers a linkwww.flextekrc.com

Most people use gorilla chassis and love them. Also the arms are good, but the UE is better. Flextek is ok, but they flex and cause hinge pins to bend from what I hear.

you are right but the gmaxx arms have bent before- go ultimate engineering

all arms bend hingepins at some point and time but your right they migh bend them more than others, but they still are good(expensive though). but it depends what you are using them for if you are not going to be running in to trees or curbs, or jumping 10 foot cliffs you should be fine with g-maxx stuff.

I think you mean Unlimited Engineering! And I ran the gorilla arms for a long time. If you are racing only they are fine, I never had probs bashing either until one bad jump.....if you can imagine what 8 feet can do!!!! But UE takes the cake and most will swear by it. Although, I'm curious to what gmaxx is doing with the 3.3 stuff. Hopefully, they will build them out of 7075! That would make a big difference IMO.

with my gmaxx, I only ever bent one pin...ever

I have the Racer-X by Unlimited Engineering. Best on the market bar none (IMO). The GMaxx arms are light and nice but not nearly as strong as the UE.

The Flextek is supposed to be nice too but I hev no personal experience with them.

And I'm sure UE has too! LOL:010:

You can bend or break just about anything. Some parts tolerate abuse better than others though!

And I totally agree! Well said Pro 5.0:027:

I think RPM is NOT a good way to go on the Maxx if your running CVD's...I run them on my Revo and they do well, but I ran them when I had CVD's and it it wasn't pretty...I had one pop out from a hard turn...And that was just with nitro :p. I thought they would be ok on the Revo and not do like they do on the Maxx because the arm's are more robust and don't flex as much, well I thought wrong...Now what was I saying? Oh, yea, don't get RPM's if your going with CVD's...

Too much flex huh?!

WOW i have been calling them ultimate engineering for about a year i just glanced at there sight and my brain processied ultimate SO sorry for any previous mispellings of Un[B]LIMITED[B] Engineering LOL

well i should have the emaxx by the end of the week... ill look it over for any damage then start ordering stuff! i think im sold on the aluminum chassis, but for arms im kinda up in the air... this maxx isnt my main unit, so i cant see spending that much on arms..:eek: ive got buggies that take priority! my revo is in peices in a box! lol im so mad at that thing, the chassis is a peice of crap that i bend every time out. if i have to replace another spur ill burn it! and yes ive been running steel, the nova 528xr eats em like candy! so the revo will remain in a box untill a solution comes out. a buggy is more fun anyways!!:005:

back on topic.. i do like the blingy look of the aluminum ars, but good lord they want a fortune for em! ive been watching ebay for used stuff but i havnt found anything yet..
is the fast lane stuff good? i like their bulk/diff combo that allows the use of buggy diffs! i have the diffs already.
how about the power stroke shocks, any good? they sure look and sound cool!! from what i can tell the stock emaxx shocks blow? what should i get?
what wheel set up do you guys like, 23mm? ive got those... what offset wheels, standard or 1/2" offset?
i suppose the knuckles suck too?

sorry for all the questions... i dont know any other people who run electric! ill be the first at our track, another reason i dont wanna spend a grand on this emaxx... its more of a novelty. im getting the truck for no out of pocket money so i can afford to put a few hunderd into it right away, but i want to asses the situation at that point and see if its really worth going any farther.

so far i want the chassis, some shocks, bulks, arms(even if its rpm). if i like it then ill go further.:010:

Id try the FLM hybrid combo bulks with HB pro diffs. Those would be pretty much bullet proof. The flm arms arent bad, and if they break its 5$ to replace them so they are pretty much not bad. Id take the UE shocks (4 of them) since they are smooth and are very strong. The powerstrokes are nice, but they are discontinued so finding them isnt too easy. As for 23mm hexes, if you want them, get the dace adaptors. They are very nice and are alot better than pro-line since they actually grab onto the stock hex.

I saw the proline shocks in stock at proline last week? And they go on ebay too. If you already have 1/8th diffs, get the hybrids. Arms, FLM are good to use, and their warranty is good. Knuckles, RPM's are ok, I run those on my girls truck.

cool, ill look into those shocks! lemme guess... they cost ya your first born? lol..:027:

heres my revo for those who havnt seen it. its sportin a novarossi 528xr, and every possible goody!:028: im using a qoncepts big block kit, its the best by far. look at their site, im their poster boy!! lol..:005: im on their front page, yeah baby!:027:

http://www.qoncepts.com/index.htm

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...08393801&hl=en

heres some of my other rcs. my jammin fte isnt in this vid, i got it after i made it.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...76962430&hl=en

I know the shocks are discontinued - but they probably still sell the leftovers - but they sure do cost a pretty penny! Nice revo! IMO i like the revo more than the maxx, but if it comes to a fully hopped up one - like troy's (neweuser) maxx, id take the maxx over it.

so whats the story on the tranny, is it gonna explode easy? what options are there to beef it up?:028:

A G1 Single Speed kit and a RC-Monster idler gear should do...

Even with a two speed the steel idlers really beef the trans up.

I'm running a G2R with a 9XL mamba max combo, with a single speed and stock plastic idler, and i tore up the rear diff and the tranny is still runnung smooth

What battery packs are you using?

How well is the MM/9XL doing?

I went trough all the stock idlers on 3 runs or so. But I was bashin pretty hard. Even stripped a second gear clean smooth. went to the single speed and same thing, plus broke the wimpy pin that holds the gear on the top shaft several times.

Larry is running 2 x 2s2p 8000mah lipos.

Hows that 1950/7 & 9920 combo working out? I was considering that combo for my Supermaxx Emaxx.

Actually, i havent ran my truggy yet, waiting on a servo/receiver and have to make 1 last bracket.

Just at looking at the new 9920, compared to the older one (with smaller black heatsink) i doubt and have a very good feeling about it, since when i ran a revo on 14 cells, 1950/7 9920 and they both ran cool, the 9920 did get to average temps of 140F but it wasnt bad, the lehner made it run ALOT cooler than the old 10L i was using...

The new heatsink is alot bigger, so i wont be using a fan.

Cut a hex wrench as a pin they are strong. or pic up a stronger slightly bigger pin and freeze the pin and put the top shaft in the overn the pin will shrink(or it is the other way around) and the shaft hole will get biger slide the pin and when they cool back down the pin will expand and the gear hole will shrink assuring that the pin will never come out. Of course i am not familiar with the top shaft so this may not be necessary or they might sell and aftermarket pin.

You are part right.

Don't use a hex wrench, use a piece of drill rod or a shank of a drill bit.

Freeze the pin and heat the shaft & gear (minimally the gear).

I can provide the right size pins for a minimal fee. I'm installing them in my HSR Slipper Kits. (To be released in the near future)