Slipperential questions and a brief other
 

1.)I have a question for you guys who are pretty familiar with the slipperiential. First i will be racing and i wanted to know what diff oil/lub/grease ect... should i use to get the best racing results. also how should i adjust the diff for racing. I was told there is a way to adjust it so you don't pop wheelies and your power goes straight to the ground. what way should adjust/lube the slipperiential.

2.) Also I was wondering what the price is of the plastic 3.3 maxx CVDS. Also do you guys recommend these as a cheap alternative to steel CVDS(i do not think i will go this route but if i do will they hold) also i was wondering if there is a performance difference(notable) with the Beaffy plastic ones compared to steel. Also is it good to have flex in the CVDS so it does not strain the diff as much.


3.) Also i will be using Maximizer diffs do know if they are pretty straight forward(about Assembly and instructions) also what kind of lubricant should i use when i build them and any recommendations on building these. Thanks for your replies.

-BTW my setup will be ALU 3.3 knuckles to fit large 3.3 CVDS, 7xl, quark, and 4s and 17mm standard size Wabash wheels:027: :032:

Ok, A few changes would be good. I would go with the 3.3 aluminum knuckles like you said, but I would choose the RD Racing knuckes and the 23mm 8mm axle kit. Second, with that setup, you have to run 3.3 sliders, which I would do anyway to be easier on the drivetrain. You don't really have to worry about the durability of them. As for the slipperential, I don't think wheelies should be a concern. First off, the center diff alone should eliminate them, then on top of that you have a slipper, so I wouldn't worry. I would start with 10K fluid and work your way from there. The only thing I dislike about your setup is the F/R diffs can't be tuned with silicon fluid...I would like to think you can use the Revo aluminum cups instead of the Maximixers (maybe Maximizer makes them for the Revo? not sure) so you can use diff oil...I'm not sure about the diffs though...

squeeforever i am running these diffs (i would prefer HB) because of ratio to obtain the speeds i want i need these lower gear ratios for the f/r diffs. maximizer does make diff cups of the revo but will they work in the combo bulks or will i have to go with hybrid(don't think so cause its not 1/8 scale) but what ratio are the revos. also i was going with the rd logics knuckles but do you think they are about as good as the other steel CVDS(for my use i know there not as strong but they are cheaper) Is that all i need for the 3.3 beefy CVDS the knuckles or what else do i need for them to work. Also i will be using the 17mm because there are a better variety off wheels to chose from in that section plus they only carry standard white Wabash wheels in 17mm the 23mm ones are for the revo and they are 40 series(i want standard because they are narrower for better turning and handling rather than the fat wide 40 series wheels wheels) I could get solid dish standard size 23mm that are just the same as the Wabash just not the same look. But i like that look but that is something small i can change down the road so i am not worries about that.

squee-http://www.maximizerproducts.com/max...890a2eS$7Cd$DB

Are the sliders lighter than mip cvds

hey you guys ive been wondering what is a slipperential? how does it look like? would you guys have any pics.? what is it for? is it to make front of truck go oneway?

http://www.rc-monster.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4767 frist off it is for an e-maxx and you need a g-maxx xbrace chassis. The slipperential is best for racing for many reasons(it has a lower cg and weighs consideraply less than a regular e-maxx trans. also oyu use a revo sipper and a center diff.-this center diff allows movement in the drive train so you dont pop wheelies the power and acceleration goes straight to the ground.) heres a link on how to instal it and what it looks like

hey thanks do much! but its sad that it could only be for the g2r huh? still have the regular chasis execpt that its carbon fiber and a lower cg. whould you guys have or know of a thread on how to make your front tires one way?

from my understanding the current version doesn't work for the g2r... its only for the emaxx gorilla maxx chassis... unless i'm wrong

that's correct, but the g2r version is in the works, as far as i know......

The slipperential is also being made for truggies from my understanding.

Yes, for the Revo g2r is another slipperential in the works. For as far as i can see; the standard slipperential would fit in a savage as well (with the nitro motor)

DO you guys have any answers for the above thanks a ton

I'm not sure on the knuckles, I think squee answered that. The 3.3 sliders you can go on ebay and check them out, you can use the 3.3 knuckles too. Leroy(CHC) uses them and is very happy.
the slipperential diff you can start at 25,000 or 30,000 would be good for racing I guess.

Ok, if you must use the Maximizer diffs, I would do some research/experimenting...If your gonna be racing, tuning the F/R diffs with oil is a MAJOR advantage...I think that it is possible to seal the F/R diffs like a Revo (probably using Revo diff cups). I'm not sure on this to be honest, it's just a possibility...Anywho, if your racing, you will want to go light weight...So sliders are the BEST way to go. The 3.3 sliders will do just fine. As for bulks, go for the FLM Combo bulks. The Combo's are for standard gears, were as the Hybrids are for 1/8th scale gears...As for knuckles, the RD Racing is the BEST there is...They use larger bearings and also give you the opportunity to upgrade to there 8mm axle kit. Of course that will require 23mm rims, but there is no disadvantages to that since Proline DOESN'T make 17mm Walbash's that aren't 40 series...Besides, the Walbash's (23mm) are designed for the Revo, which a Maxx with the 3.3 setup is the same width as a Revo, so with a 3.3 setup, think like its a Revo when it comes to rims...0 offset is usually the best way to go...

my bad they do make 17mm wabash jus tin the 40series wheel

squeeforever is there a performance difference in the 40 series wheels because they are wider.

what do you think as far as performance and turrning (using 333 oz servo)

333 oz-in Should turn with authority! You will need a beefy servo saver like the UE Gen-IV.

Yea, the UE servo saver should work....I think 40 series are nice, but it depends on your track. The 40 series will slide in the turns some, so on a high bite track, they will work good. I would personally go with Crime Fighter MTR's and some yellow Proline 23mm 0 offset rims...

i know this is not cool but anyway i will be racing this on a street track made in the parking lot by my hobby town. (would rather race off road i a million years but there are no off road tracks around me). so for this track what are your recommendations for this type of racing. also will the proline steering Assembly work just as good as UE one

It will work, just not as good...

is the only difference stregnth

Strength & consistency. Plus the UE is serviceable.

there is a difference... they will handle diffrently... personally i'm not a big fan of 40 series tires/wheels for racing, they are harder on your truck because of the low profile nature of the tires and their increased weight... in certian conditions one will offer more traction than the other... there is also a very limited choice in tires in the 40 series size

I beg to differ...There is a descent amount. Proline may only make 2 different ones designed for racing, but those 2 are by far the most popular tires there is...

Different tires & rims for different track conditions. I have 5 sets for my maxx and 12-14 pair for my stadium truck. variuos tread patterns, compounds, diameters, etc.

I have got it i will go with 17mm standard size dish and crime fighter tires. This way i dont have the weight of the 40 series, i also have a better turning ability(also use UE instead of proline steeing assymbly), also the 17mm is my personal prefrence and i am getting it for christmas an i cant change that so i miseweel us it, also the crime fighters will do good on the street (it think) and do good bashing on not much more material than grass and dirt. also they have the regular offset which keeps the tires in close. The only downside is the super prettness of the wabash but i will get over that. What do you guys think does that sound like a solution for me situation at least.

Do you guys know how long it will be before the slipperiential is available on line or do i have to order it from mike and if so how is this done

The slipperential is suppose to be available anyday now....he is just waiting on the new shafts to be done and to come in...so keep checking back on the product page...because it should be any day now....

GM360... What hobbytown are you going to race at? Im in chicago also. Just curious. I have set my gmax up for road racing in the past and might be interested in that.



Anyone know about the timing on the 2nd revision of the slipperential that works with the revo G2R chassis? Thats the one Im waiting for.

i race at hobby town usa in crystal lake

between you me and a few others there are not many people that have all g-maxx setups that live in chicago becasue the way i figure it if it is a good emaxx chances are they will come here(to rc monster) and i have not seen many chicagoians with g-maxxes on this site besides you(but i might have just mised some) wouldnt that be cool if we and some otheres were like the only ten people in chicago with a decked out g-maxx

not sure but i am sure it wont be far in the future (but i have been wrong before)- email mike he should know an estimate