E-maxx Suspension
 

what can a do to get the best handling out of my e-maxx?

Get the best suspension kit. Shocks and arms, extended chassis, wider wheels, suitable tyres etc.

Do you have a budget? Certain area you want to change like shocks or arms? Where do you use your truck?

Try to get the lowest cog to.

i want it to sit low and handle great. but i still want all of the down travel for jumps so that kind of eliminates limiting straps. i wanted to start out with the shocks. if i get the wide rpm arms, what drive shafts should i run? it has the novak hv 4.5 in it. i work for HobbyTown USA so i can get just about anything.

Some things don't quite match;

you want a racer setup with a large travel. This doesn't combine well. Overall, a racer would bottom out fair easy. (bottoming out isn't a bad thing)

a set of the Traxxas Big Bore shocks can make your truck handle like a dream if setup well.

A set of Proline Powerstrokes offer the best of both worlds IMO. good for racing and for bashing. Too bad they are discontinued. For the price, nothing beats the Big Bores.

Powerstrokes are not discontinued! Proline still produces them, and they sell them on their site: www.prolineracing.com (go to-products-monstertrucks-performance parts)

i wont be hitting big jumps. i wont be bashing as much. i just dont want to be rolling over so much. i saw an article where a guy put 4 buggy shocks on his s-maxx. and he only run 4, not 8. and how would changing mine to 2wd affect it?

Daf;

250 dollars for a set of shocks..? You can only buy them as loose sets.. they only sell them as spare parts IMO..

Making it 2wd is not improving the trucks handling.

You can also choose to use 4 of the big-bore shocks.

Just wait for a set of powerstrokes to hit eBay. I also think that buying the Powerstrokes off Pro-Line directly is paying way more then needed. Just try to lower your truck, not too low. Possibly get 40 series wheels and tires? Might help keep the rubber on the road/dirt road

Josh :028:

If racing, definately get some Crime Fighter MTR rims with Velocity rims. They will improve handling, no matter what terrain, but more than anything on the track.

no racing. i just dont want to have to slow down all the way just to make a turn. i use it more at the local BMX track and skate parks. i guess you could call it a racer. i just dont really race other people. what would you suggest if i wanted to go all out racer?

i want to run rpm's wide arms but i dont know what drive shafts to run.

mip1525?

Use the edit button please....

I would use UE shafts instead of the MIP's about the same price, and more durable.

The 4 shock set-up you mention, is probably the UE racerx shocks.

I changed my stock setup to:

G-maxx x-brace chasis
G-maxx g3 race suspension
Big bores with Trinity blue spings and 35 wt. oil
Crimefighter 40 series on velocitys

It handles so much better, and I can turn with high speed with no problem.

Maybe I should try the extension, does it change alot on the handling?

The extension makes it more predictable in on-power corners..

I want to stick to MIP because of my store discount. I just don't know which ones will work with the wider arms. I think I am going to try this for the shocks.
Shock Set-up



Set-up: Front Shocks

Note: Both the inboard and outboard shocks are set-up the same internally. Use the outboard shocks to quickly change shock oil for different track conditions.

Dampers: Traxxas Big Bore w/ Ti. Nitride shock shafts

Pistons: 2-hole (all-around)

Oil:

inboard - Team Associated 40wt.

outboard - Team Associated 50wt.

Springs:

inboard - Team Losi 1/10-scale truck rear blue(firm)

outboard - Kyosho 1/8-scale buggy front white(firm)

Travel Limiters: no limiters

Length: 110mm (top of cap to bottom of rod end)

Location: Upper ñ A (middle) Lower - #3 (3rd from inside)


Set-up: Rear Shocks

Note: Both the inboard and outboard shocks are set-up the same internally. Use the outboard shocks to quickly change shock oil for different track conditions.

Dampers: Traxxas Big Bore w/ Ti. Nitride shock shafts

Pistons: 2-hole (all-around)

Oil:

inboard - Team Associated 40wt.

outboard - Team Associated 50wt.

Springs:

inboard - Team Losi 1/10-scale truck rear blue(firm)

outboard - Kyosho 1/8-scale buggy front white(firm)

Travel Limiters: no limiters

Length: 110mm (top of cap to bottom of rod end)

Location: Upper ñ A (middle) Lower - #3 (3rd from inside)

http://www.traxxas.com/support/index...458&artlang=en

I'm using 4 bigbores on my lightweight maxx with 65 wt oil rear and 45 wt front and the purple RPM pistons in them. I will put a tad thicker oil in the front ones. it's not bumpy, but it reacts a bit too much when i apply full brakes on 14 cells. (the RPM pistons work miracles, they really do)

the angle of the shocks is also very important.

I'm using them with red UE springs in the rear and white UE springs in the front..

BTW; your setup is from the T-maxx, i would not use it. You really don't need to use two different types of oil on 1 arm. that's rubbish.

I will start with the big bores. But the drive shafts still pose a problem. What MIPs will work with the wide arms?

Yes, the MIP1525's will work well.

They are long enough?

Like i said; Yes, the MIP1525's will work well.

if they where too short, i would have said something like; no, they are too short.. :p

:005:

thanks.

Anytime!

Just to hijack for minute here. I had as set of big bores, but the E maxx springs were too wide for them, are there sets for the T maxx and the E maxx?
thanks, sorry for the jack!

Springs are the same for the T-maxx and the E-Maxx. I've owned both and they were freely interchangeable.

I have a set of big bores that came with narrower springs and they were not as tight as the e springs. The Emaxx fit, but they were too wide in diameter! Trust me!

I don't doubt you. I've heard that the big bores were different.

Trinity HD Blue springs fit well and have a nice rate for the Emaxx.

What would be the ultimate set-up for the E-maxx with the traxxas big bores. I want it to sit low and handle well. I also want it to be able to handle at least a 10-12 foot drop. Is this even posible?

What I did to make the springs fit snug, is I took the spring mount from the stock shock, trimmed the inside and fit it right around the Big Bore shock spring hold, I used the blue as well and they worked great. I just found that the UE shocks worked better for my needs.

Ditto!

I've done the same. I have (8) UE Supershocks on the truck and four in the toolbox with different oil for "quick changes" trackside. Might deceide to go with only (4) then I'll have (3) shock combos ready to rock at a moments notice. :027:

You got a pic of your truck by chance?

Only parts of it. It's fully disassembled at the moment. All parts are being polished, trans is being upgraded, brushless will be installed (as soon as I make a decision and order it), etc.

Here are partial pics..........

looks good. What compound are you using for polishing?

No quick answer to that.

If the part starts out in great condition, like an out of the package UE or FLM part I polish with Tripoli on a Sisal wheel then with Jewelers rouge on a soft cloth wheel. I follow that up with hand polishing using Mothers Billet polish and/or Wizzard Polish and Wizzard polished metal protector.

If the metal is anodized, has scratches or deep pits the process starts differently but ends the same way.

The reason I ask is because I would like to polish my slipperential, and my FLM bulks, which come pretty dull. I would also like to do my x braces as well. It seems the 6061 aluminum is more likely to start dull, but would like a better finish on them. Would the Wizard polish and protector do me justice in this? My racer X comes polished, so that ain't so bad! But, I would like the rest to be shiny too! :027:
thanks Man!

I have an extensive and comprehensive assortment of "polishing tools" at home. I have 5 different compounds, more than a dozen polishing wheels from 3/8" dia up to 8" dia. Plus 6 different polishes, 11 grades of sandpaper (36g - 1000g), 3-grades of scotchbrite, bentchtop buffer w/ 1/2" mandrels, dozens of diferent grades & shapes of files, and numerous other things that escape my mind this morning. To polish things like the trans case and the bulks (both are a bitch to polish and time consuming) you need a wide assortment of materials & tools to do it successfully. I think the results of my work speak for themselves.

To start out though, go to your local homecenter , SEARS, or industrial hardware store and pick up ENCO polishing wheels and compounds. You can use a power drill but will need a way to secure the part without damaging it to polish it.

You can also locate a used motor, like from a dryer, mount it to a workbench and buy a 1/2" arbor adaptor. (1700-2500 rpm works well)Then you hold the part while you polish it.

Does any of this help????

Oh yeah, just need the idea and go from there is all. You did well! Thanks! I have dremmel for the small spaces too. But the wheels you get with it are cheap and weak IMO. But a nice buffer wheel would be good.