power output
 

would there be any device that could measure amp draw, voltage and stores it in a memory so you can check it out on your pc/ laptop?
i mean something you could put in the car?
many thank guys.:027:

Yup, sure is: http://www.eagletreesystems.com/MicroPower/micro.htm

sweet, thanks brian.
do you plug it on the battery then?
i dont find that info.

Yeah, there is a set of Deans on it where you plug the batts into one and the ESC into the other. It measures current and voltage over time and creates a plot on your PC. You can also get other sensors like RPM and temperature to monitor those too.

Pretty sweet device really. It's definitely one of my future purchases...

so, it handles 100 amps and goes inbetween batts and esc.
does that mean it limits your system to 100 amps?

No, you can read out peaks of 150A with ease. the 100A is continues. It's a series module, so it needs to handle the power that is going thru it.

thanks guys.
other question:
8 kilo car, suggest me a motor?
just thinking really, would be with 6s lipo.
also esc, wich you guys would pick for this task?

8kg!? give it the weightwatchers program..

:p

a 1950/2230 wouls serve a good job.

depending on the speed you want to reach, a wanderer XL is capable of pushing it around too

thanks rene!
2230 would have more torque i assume?

Actually; No, the 1950 is a tad stronger and can handle slightly more power.

(on paper)

Wow, over 17 lbs! :dft002: I'd definitely see where you could shed about 3-4 pounds...

all i could think of would be lighter wheels.
but the ones on it are :043:
maybe ditch the nitro tranny and build a slipperential?!?
on 3 speed trannies, can you brake on your motor or do you need mechanical brakes?

What vehicle is it?

with a 2 or 3 speed, you need the mechanical brake.

Do you have pics of this car?

i'm really just thinking about this, i'm not sure on anything.
car would be a cen gst 7.7.

You mean like the one aqwut did?

yep.
i figured it out bout the gears, gotta ditch the external shifter.
use some sort of slipper instead, it will stil be 2 speed.

yet another question, can ( for example) bk 36120 controllers handle 10s lipo?

Another option would be a DPR by BNB.

36 cells give 43.2v, and 10s Lipo fully charged gives 42.0v, so 10s Lipo should work fine.

42V Wow! That's quite a set-up.

thanks metalman!

I was hoping it handle 12s lipo.
That is my goal. It has me worried a little. :032:

That is close. 12s fully charged would be close to 50v right?

50.4 volts to be more exact. :D
If you take 36 cells off charge it will be like 1.4 a cell.
It comes out to 50.4 as well.

You might be ok if the initial voltage falls quickly back to the nominal 3.7v/cell (44.4v)

That's a really nice price and seems to have about the same features as the Eagletree systems.

Brian, yea the DPRs are pretty neat. The DPR software is quite decent too. Only downside of the DPRs is they can't have more than 30V flowing through them. But for alot of HV setups one will probably have two series'd packs anyway if running more than 6S, so not a problem then.

The portable LCD that Eagletree make is quite intriguing though. I guess that could come in handy.

man you guys are building some crazy high power sustems huh..
phil

It looks incredible for $62. I'm tempted to buy one but I really like the Eagletree systems product. It does a great deal more and has nicer software but at tripple the price. Plus, if you really like it you can get the telemetry component and datalog to your pc or monitor it at you transmitter.

but $62 for a decent basic datalogger sure is appealing...........

Yeah, it is nice. The eagletree is probably more than I need. I would just like something that would log voltage drop and current to see if whatever battery I chose is up to the task. I would hate to find out by developing a puffed pack...

I just about had my mind made up on the 9920/8XL/UBEC combo to go with an Eagletree data system (dual temps, driveline rpm, motor rpm, etc.) then one of my friends here send's me a PM saying:

GO LEHNER!!!

Now I'm thinking hard about doing the 9920/1940-8/UBEC!

maybe I should just invest the money, then it's done! Reliable, fast, efficient!

The data package could follow right after I guess.

You could go with a 1950 7t procharge.

Why? help me out here.

I like the fact that is has a 5mm shaft, thats good. More strength & better pinion selection. It's a longer motor case & rotor so I assume it makes more torque.

Do I need it (or want it)? $335 is alot of green for a motor! Sell me!

btw, Mike seems to be out of most of the 1940's and 1950's. Bummer. Wonder when they'll come back in stock?

Have you seen the Eagle Tree MicroPower?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXMBS3&P=ML
It's only $2 more than the DPR, and can handle 15 more volts. The MicroPower is great! Eagle Tree also makes more add-on sensors for it, even an optical RPM sensor!

Wow, I didn't realize it was that cheap! I could have sworn it was over $100...

Eagle Tree's other model is more expensive:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXGEK1&P=7
It can take more sensors and is more powerful in terms of what it can do.

Yeah, that's the one I was thinking of, but I thought it was more. Cool. :)

Lol, found a little error in their website while looking around. Go to this page and hover over the orange menu buttons at the top and watch the wording starting on the third button...

Wow, nice find!
I picked up the Eagletree micropower, powerpanel lcd, temp and brushless inline rpm sensor.
I don't use Deans so I got the version with wire leads.
This little guy was worth the $$$ IMO