Second Thoughts
 

ok i have been told not to do this by so many people not to build one it will break it is to expensive it is not worth it BLAH BLAH BLAH.. is it strong? i need proof. should i or should i not?

What parts are you talking about , the arms, chassis etc? Get it! Georges products are the greatest, dont take my word for it , ask any one here, but think for a second, you see the super-g-maxx (project m-23) (correct me if im wrong chase :P) and MaxxFusion's ride? They both have g-maxx accesories, and those are the two best trucks ive ever seen. Get it.

secong thoughts on the whole project. i think that putting 2000 US into a truck is crazy now. mike is there a way we can save some money on stuff? on anything that is not necessary? please email me or something

think of it this way , you already have 5% off, keep saving up money up, than get the parts and acesories, even tho you spend 2gs, how good will you feel when your done, and how fun will it be when you drive, look at the positves, not the negatives, a guy at my LHS spent 4500$!! (American) on his e-maxx!

i need videos of crashes and bashes with thes to give me more confidence

Tough case..

You don't believe the people out here?

Or have you got serious doubts in your own driving skills? ;)

I have got a technical background and i say that the g-maxx chassis is on of the best chassis available, considering price, material and toughness.

I simple ain't got no movie to proof it, just go to rcpics.net and do the search for the movies..

And everything can break, snap or bent in the hands of the wrong person. hit a concrete wall at 30-40 mph with the toughest maxx out there and it WILL be damaged.

Again, the g-maxx chassis is one of the best frames money can buy. And if you crash badly, you can buy all things as spareparts.

In my opinion people who invested 2k in their maxxes don't drive it careless. be nice to it, and she will be nice to you...

I agree with Serum - If you show a little restraint while ripping the Gmaxx around - it should provide hours of enjoyment. Barring smashing into trees, poles, buildings and general operator error you cant go wrong with the Gmaxx - Lighter, stronger, lower and brushless equipped, WAY way faster and tougher. When properly equipped ( what i mean is if you have a motor that can drop serious power the drivetrain had better be up to the test also ) and pound for pound your not going to find anything that is as Tuff as the Gmaxx. But thats just my .03 cents..........

toby,

You're going to break stuff, no matter what. As somebody else said, even the toughest will bend or break.

There are parts that I consistently break, they are the "flanges"...lower arms, body posts, bulkheads, and sometimes the shock shafts, etc. Fortunately I've left those things stock and cheap. I keep extras of each part w/ me at all times.

I evaluated the risk of purchasing a ~$200 chassis (carbon fiber, btw) and figured that w/ my practice of leaving cheap stock breakable parts in the exposed areas they will take (and break) the brunt of the energy. I shouldn't have a problem w/ the carbon servo plate breaking in most "normal" crashes.

I'd love to give you some bashing videos but right now its the little stuff thats breaking. Heres what I learner

1. Don't get anything RD Logic.
2. FInd some steel Idlers
3. Don't be throttle hungry
4. Get the Rc-monster mtor brace so you don't ruin your motor
5. Get side-by-side packs for the g-maxx chassis.
6. RPM steering knuckles should be bought.
7. Get a nice set of allen wrenches
8. plenty of locktite.
9. get a good charger
10. Know what your doing!


LOL those are all things i've learned in the project so far. I've put it aside so I can concentrate on getting my race t-maxx ready. I would run the E-maxx but can't last a 15min main. After the T-maxx is ready to race I will get the E-maxx going. Figure I'll make it the extreme basher!

I'm not sure if you've seen my videos but i plan to do the same thing with the E-maxx. Two story house drop and huge air jumps!

ok. is there some parts i should leave not aluminum? being there is no curbs and a fair amount of trees (depends where i drive) do you think i should leave plastic so when i do get in an accident when something will give it is plastic and not aluminum??

Use plastic bumper mounts, And possibly plastic shock towers.

Diffcups, diffhousings, and bulks.

Those cups/housings make your diffs bulletproof and the bulks are a rather weak spot on the maxx.

And buy a Gmaxx chassis..

Best hopups money can buy.. And a few sets of spare a-arms in case your not confinced by your own driving skills..

And dont forget #10 and #3....

trust me when i say Mike and I have a wicked awesome complete list to make me a killer truck

Willing to share a list or is a 007 secret project?

ummm.. i GUESS i could show ya'll lol this is without some stuff it has all the prices and everything here ya go

Fastlane front bulks: $37.50
FastLane Rear bulks: $37.50
G-maxx G2 Aluminum chassis: $175
Gmaxx G2 chassis extension kit: $39
G-maxx G3 suspension: $265
UE Titanium center shafts: $50
Integy Super Duty Knuckles (2 sets): $60
Integy steering block caps(2)for steering knuckles: $36
E-maxx bearing kit: $35
Lunsford tit. 1/8 scale turnbuckle kit: $89.99
Maxx steering bellcranks: $5 or UE Servo saver: $70
Maxx steering bellcrank posts: $7
Stock wheel hex: ?
Maxx wheel nuts: $15
Titanium pillow balls(2 packages): $40
stock body mounts front/rear: ?

I would seriously consider the stock pilowballs over the titanium types..

You haven't got any flex from the aluminum arms and bulks.. they will break sooner or later..

Nice list!

Can't wait to see the pictures!!!

Allready got the diffhousings? and the diffcups? Otherwise, you could consider the FLM bulkless combo.. Got them right here in front of me, and they look SWEEEEEEET!

i am making two seperate orders with mike and that is the first one it is everything almost to make it a rolling chassis

Nice!

Did you considered the FLM bulkless things though?

or are you planning UE diffs? In that case;

FLM has got those bulkless as well!

Beefy, yet lightweight!

Those FLM Bulkless are SWEET! - Im putting them on my new Gmaxx......

since there is good feedback on them so far could i have a link or more info or something pease?

http://www.rc-monster.com/proddetail...LM18700&cat=31

They require 1/8 diffs.

why buy that instead of just bulks? then wouldn;t we need to revise my list agian Mike?

The hybrid bulks don't require a diff cup, and are lighter than most bulkhead/diff cups combos. Yes, this would slightly modify your list.

could you revise it for me if you stil have iot?

I still have your list. easy enough to revise.

ok thanks mike

I hope everything works out for you, i will have some new pics once i get alll my things. :)

i think it will all work out for me
first off thanks to everyone that replys to this thread and the forum
and thank you to MIKe especially
it will all work out becasue ithough of a couple things

1. "imagine how good i will feel when this is done"
2."imagine how much fun i will have"

Thats exactly what i said in the beggining :) Good luck putting it all together.

You'll get a kick from the assembling..

Better than mecano..

:)

You made up your mind on the shocks yet?

as in proline powerstrokes?
or as in
gorillamaxx

as in powerstrokes. <GOOD CHOICE ALLERT>

I got them myself, (never drove them though, just waiting for some parts) but they are REALLY greatlooking and perfect engineered!!! (and big in diameter too) I modded them a bit (visual modification) so i had to take them apart, but every little piece is crafted with precision. they are awesome. Be sure to get the upgraded spring kit as well (Mike can get them, i got mine from him too) The ' standard' springs are a bit soft if you ask me. Perfect for 12 cells though.. (perhaps 14 cells will do to)

I will post a picture of them when i'm at home if your interested?

i own them already dude thanks though

No, i meant with the visual upgrade...

http://www.serum.demon.nl/bl%20maxx/powerstroke.JPG

Serum- That looks Sweet!! I think I'll have my brother do that!!

Thanks Rcbros! (that's the other part of you name? your brother?)

I'm also thinking about getting a set of the 3racing Revo bottom caps for the shocks..

Look here. I think those will fit perfectly..

I left the threaded part anodized, because when you tune your shocks with that thumbscrew, it think they will get very dirty.

I am going to throw in the UE nitride shafts.

They will look sweet!!

that is awesome man. how did you do that?
those shocks are awesome

I described that deanodizing in a thread on this forum;

look here.