What VBS
 

What is up with these UE VBS bulkheads. Why are they so expensive. Do you they dramatically improve handling. how do you acess the gears. What kind of gears do they use standard or 1/8 scale. Is there a set of these that is sold with the diffs. Any other info on these things. How do they compare to the hyrids and HBdiffs. I am a racer but this is for street racing (no ofraod track around me) so will i notice a difference between these and hybrids also will i notice performance difference in bashing. Does anybody got any pics of the inside of these or the outside thnanks.

These are the first bulkless to ever apear in the world. They're made of 7075 grade aluminum and machined with high accuracy. They're carfully polished to a mirror like level. They are compatible with 1/8 diff( HB's diffs can be easily used) and you only need to remove the skid's screws to get access to the diffs. Hinge pins are being held via set screws and no E-rings are required.

Two types are availabe, Towered( shock towers are morphed to the bulkless) which are super pricy and I consider them useless.

and towerless( you need to buy some shock towers along with these bulkless systems) which are pricy, but not as pricy as the towered ones.

If you would wait a bit longer, I'll be posting some pics of my all new SuperMaxx truck.

If you are dying to see the VBS, check out the thread called: Papa's Project.

They are machined out of a solid block of 7074 aluminum the size of a rubics cube. They along with the slipper natural and my jammin shocks are the biggest improvements I have added to my maxx, and I've tried quite a few. FLM are a less expensive alternative but dont offer easy diff access, improved suspension geometry, captured hindge pins, and the toughest bumper/skid combo available. They are simply the best money can buy, bar none. On a scale of one to ten I give the VBS a 10 and the FLMs' a 7.5

WoW so if i wat towered which ones do i buy because there are a lot of packages. BTW i like the easy diff acess through the skid.

Talk to Mike he is a UE dealer.

Just so you know, get all your UE stuff off mike, saves a ton of headaches.

They are so expensive because they take ages to machine them that nice.. It's something special.

It cost $$$ to buy the best!


I hope to buy them someday........:002:

I personally love my FLM Hybrids and have never had a problem with them. I never had to take out my diff either...

It's true.
If you're gonna beat up your dude, the FLMs are the way to go. I got the VBS just because they make my truck prettier.

Nothing looks better than the VBS! I agree!

The FLM Hybrids fill a need though!

I had them, i sold them.. I personally think it's not really needed to have this much money invested in a part. (am i saying this?!)

Where is the REAL Serum????

Hang on, i'll have a look...

No seriously.. I had the ones with the towers. They are sweet, but i didn't had the lightning chassis and wasn't able to get one, so i got rid of them. I personally think they are too much for the gmaxx. (which is a nice chassis, don't get me wrong, but it's not close to the UE lightning) Overall i like the layout of the gmaxx better, but the looks of the UE is unbeatable.

I'd like to have the VBS but with a family, a home, (and the Mustang :-) )
I can't justify the cost. I still drool over them but can't buy them just yet!

LOL, better get them while they are available.. you never know when the production comes to an end...

Do the ue 6 spyder diffs fits the vbs or do I need the combo bulks?

The fit the VBS and the FLM hybrid's.

Forget the VBS unless you have $2000+ to drop on the truck and it sounds like you don't.

get FLM hybrids w/HB diffs or go with a more cost effective route. Do the FLM combos w/flm diff cups. It won't hold as much power but will hold substantially more than stock.

Think about it.....if you have "champagne tastes and a beer budget" are you going to buy what you can afford or go without?

I just saw your new truck very nice work very impressive. :018: It has a $330 set of flex tecs on it:032:

I thought for some reason vbs meant hybrids...lol. Which are the ue diff cups your talking bout?

FLM Diff Cups (included modified gearset & 3mm hardware)

They interchange with stock traxxas parts but are much stronger. A good intermediate step for someone who needs tougher parts but can't afford to drop $250 - $575 on diffs & related parts.

I'm using them along with Great Assembly RC 7075 Diff housings, 7075 Bulkheads, and all high quality hardware. They will hold a decent amount of power.

I personally prefer the 7075 cups. (to be honest, they are the only ones i use, i didn't like the round slot in the FLM's)

It's all about balancing the cost with the performance. It sounds like he is "funding challenged" so I'm thinking of ways to get him durable stuff for as few $$$ as possible. I agree the FLM cups are not the best out there but the maximizer cups and others of equal quality are more money and then you till need a modified gear or the RRP gear which is expensive also. It always snowballs into a bigger more expensive project! I've been there with my Mustang (and other project cars as well) and with my RC's.....particularly the maxx. You can spend $120 beefing up your diffs with alum cups & cases which helps or you can spend $270 for FLM hybrids & HB Diffs which helps more or you can spend $575 for UE VBS & Ofna 8 spider diffs!

Lots of options for sure, but if you don't have the cash you either wait till you do, compromise and spend less knowing you'll get less, or you just don't do it. He'll have to decide.

BTW, the NOVA 7075 diff cups don't fit well.

Well the plastic bulkheads are weak and the cause of some diff problems cause the diff flexes a little. My dad told me I can do this but with my income I would have to do it over a period of time. But I want to do it right. Another question...the e-revo and gr2 are the same thing right?

BTW, careful intelligent purchases off ebay can save you some money as can buying used if you are careful about it.

yea, the vbs is amazing but, if i had them i would be scared to bash with them on my truck. And besides i wouldn't want to pay that mutch money for just bulks.

anyone know or can estimate a time for how long one bulk would take to machine on the cnc?

I think I found why im so confused. Are the ue 6 and 8 spyerd diffs also 1/8 scale casue I have been thinking their 1/10?

Yea, there 1/8th.

Then how do they fit in the stock e-maxx bulkheads? Is the diff itself bigger but fits in the same size case as the stock e-maxx diff case?

You need to get the ue case or the flm or vbs bulkless systems.

Yes, indeed. you need special cases with these 1/8th diffs. (FLM makes a 1/8th bulkless and a 1/10th bulkless.)

Procharged; the FLM's use a modified ringgear too. (holes are 3mm and need to be counter sunk)

@burnsomenitro; it's great to built up a truck in stages, you will appreciate every upgrade you do.

I am using 1/10th diffs on my lightweight maxx; it uses integy houses and a maxximizer cup. i drove it with a 7XL on 14 cells/5S lipo/16 cells. so far they are holding up great! the only point is that you can tune them with silicone oil (the diff doesn't use o-rings, so it's not sealed.) That's one thing i want to do as soon as i get a lathe. Turn in some small notches for o-rings.. But if you shim them right, and keep a good eye on the quality of the bearings, they can last a good time.